Wisar

Nils, What do you need to do, if anything, when you print PLA? My other printer is a fully enclosed MakerBot Clone and I installed a fan for when I print PLA. Thanks, Will P.S. Top cover and door shipped within hours of the order being placed

That looks pretty good. It is not a cheap add-on but then it is not a cheap printer getting the add-on. Certainly looks better than my creation :-) If I do buy it I will come back and post a review. [update] Well, I ordered one. At least I think that I did. Could have been a mail order bride for all I know as the site was all in German. [update] Thanks for the link, Will

The topic of enclosures for an Ultimaker is pretty popular. I am not sure how anyone prints ABS without one! It seems like it would be profitable for Ultimaker to have one as an addition...or someone! Is there anyone offering one and I have missed them? My current solution takes a really attractive 3D printer and makes it look like quite the mess!

neotko, Assuming you are talking about horizontal size compensation? I do use it but had not thought about it as part of a workflow that might take into account a different material. Might could do a little test before doing a particularly dimensionally demanding print. A single global setting is probably not good enough given all the variability. Cheers, Will

Gotcha on all the factors. It seems like I spend more time calibrating for each new thing that I print, filament that I use, and sometimes even the time of day. That is a good idea on calibrating for a measured hole for a particular print. I have done that in the past but did not on this particular print. Did end up drilling the hole out and I would guess that I am within .05mm of the design. Not sure I will be able to get much closer than that.

If I am printing a part with a hole that is 7.95 millimeters in diameter what level of accuracy should I be able to expect for that hole when it is printed? +/-.??mm? Assuming a reasonably well calibrated UM2? Thanks, Will

Great. Thanks for the update. I wonder if there are other printers that suffer from this or is it just the Ultimaker? As I had mentioned before my Wanhao Duplicator does'nt. It might be interesting to ask the Creative Tools folks if they have seen the same artifact elsewhere. If they did you might have a shorter list of possible combinations anyway. In any case, good luck!

That is the question! The workaround is fine and I am happy to have a non-zebra shippy but it is only a calibration object. Sooner or later someone will not be able to just pivot things...and given they should not have to in the first place, it does seem a permanent fix would be nice!

I don't see infill as having anything to do with it! It seems that the solution is to rotate the piece being printed such that the slicers lines look straighter across the steps. It is still a bit confusing to me as to what is specific about the Ultimaker that brings out this problem. There are a LOT of prints of this model out there in the wild without stripes...including the ones from my Wanhao Duplicator 4S. Obviously it is something about the hardware / firmware interface as the phenomenon was also evident when I sliced using Simplify3D for the Ultimaker 2...and I suspect that Marlin on some other hardware might be producing a shippy without stripes as well. Too bad I just sold my Prusa machine with Marlin last weekend! I will stipulate that I can now print a ship without the zebra stripes...am not completely sure who gets the best answer. MartijnvG did all the work and documented the final solution so I think his last post gets the check...but...nallath was the first to suggest angling.

I printed the cabins using better filament and Cura at the normal setting (as opposed to superfast using Simplify3D and a profile that I am not happy with). I think the results confirm the 5 degree increment prints though: The zebra effect is gone at 15 degrees of rotation. Previous prints would suggest that it goes very soon after any rotation as it faint at 5 and seems gone at 10 (and we know it is gone at 15). ob·ses·sion - əbˈseSHən/ - noun - noun: obsession the state of being obsessed with someone or something. "she cared for him with a devotion bordering on obsession" an idea or thought that continually preoccupies or intrudes on a person's mind. plural noun: obsessions "he was in the grip of an obsession he was powerless to resist" Gee, sad when you put it that way. It's not like I am not getting other stuff done at the same time. Honest!

I think that I may have shot myself in the foot in the interest of speedy prints, but, based on what I did print I would say that the zebra stripes are largely gone as soon as you rotate the piece, and pretty much completely gone at 15 degrees: Zero: Five: Ten: Fifteen: Full Ship at Fifteen Degrees versus one at Zero Degrees: The stripes are more noticeable as image quality improves so I may print another couple of cabins tomorrow at higher resolution and slower...but...I am finally getting tired of the little shippy. Also, my wife thinks I may be ready for a padded room.

I believe that is Klapton Tape and if I were into self inflicted pain I could actually be printing on it instead of the glass. Pain because I have enough trouble replacing it on the small build platform of the Duplicator much less the big U2 platform. Which is why, even though printing on Klapton is nice, I don't much like it. It is, however, thermally very conductive so leaving it on the bed should not be an issue me thinks.

Here is my print (#27 btw) that was done at 50% infill. If you squint you can almost, just almost, make out some stripes. Is infill masking the problem? And here is an army of boat cabins, at 5 degree offsets, rising from the proverbial mud.

Which one and from whom? Here is a link to one of mine that was stripey.

Ok, the slightly obsessed, thankfully retired, guy that started this thread will volunteer ... My Simplify3D profile for the Ultimaker 2 is not ready for prime time but should work for this test!

Regarding the stripes it is strange that this seems to be typical when #3DBenchy is printed via Cura. Hopefully the Ultimaker team will find a good solution. Test #10 - Slicer = Simplify3D. Resulted in zebra stripes! It is starting to feel like the problem is in the boundary where the firmware meets the hardware!

You can make that go away by adding a shell...here are a couple of images from my testing. Both are based on the Fast profile with theonly changes being the extruder going from 220 to 210 after the first layer, a 15 second minimum layer time, and two shells for the lower print, which I aborted, and three shells for the upper. The zebra lines on the cabin, which I think I can make out on your print, are not tied to the infill and will not go away. Thanks for printing it though! Try another?

:-o Hopefully Team Ultimaker will keep an eye on both!

That skull is impressive! I guess the printer was tied up for a while. Where you able to print the little ship by any chance? Thanks, Will

Maybe both if we say please? The ship illustrates zebra stripes at all resolutions so it can be a fast print! The reason that I suggest the boat is due to my Wanhao Duplicator 2 also having a problem with your test piece while it prints the ship fine. I was hoping that we have a better chance of getting attention from Ultimaker if the problem was Ultimaker specific. On the other hand the challenge that you put up might be a lot wider in terms of interest! I have also posted a request on 3D Hubs to have Ultimaker owners try the ship print. Will

I would appreciate it if you (or anyone else!) could print the piece that I started this thread with: #3DBenchy. It is growing in popularity as a "fun" calibration challenge and it seems like there are Ultimakers that can not do it without it looking like a zebra. It can be printed at the fast setting and exhibit the issue so it is a pretty quick print. I am curious as to whether it is all Ultimakers or only some that have an issue with it. Thanks, Will

Simplify3D produces the same striping effect on my Ultimaker 2. However....I also get that effect on my Wanhao Duplicator 4S which is not the case when printing #3DBenchy which prints clean on the Duplicator.

This homey got nothing left to try. He and his buddy Joel just want a purty shippy! It may not be the infill but raising the infill percentage has masked what ever the problem is. I have no less than five other prints in that same grey filament, with lower levels of infill, and various other differing parameters, that all exhibit the zebra effect. Don't know if this is a clue...... Will

Me as well! That is absolutely amazing as to how exactly our prints match! They look like they might have been done on the High Quality setting? That is where mine showed the lines the worst. My latest test with raising the percentage of infill is shown below: The left image is 50% infill and the lines are largely gone...but the print doesnt look as good, just not as sharp or something. These are all high speed prints...20mm layer height. The one in the middle is 10% overlap of infill and shell. The one on the right is largely default but for temperature (210 after first layer) and 15 second layer time. There is clearly something puzzling going on!

Excellent idea....! I should have thought of that as I have used that feature in Slic3r. Doop. Speaking of tests...I did rotate the ship by 90 degrees and the pattern did not move or change...