KevinMakes
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Posts posted by KevinMakes
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Okay well I guess I will go into a bit more detail, simplify 3D has a few options necessary to the project im working on and its better than cura in my opinion, the ultimaker is upgraded with all original parts from fabrk8 the ultimaker 2 board has all the connections for a second extruder out of the box. there is no firmware that I can find for ultimaker 2 with the controllers for the second extruder or at least I cant find it. Am i just internet blind. if you know of the firmware I would love to have it.
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So, simplify3D told me that with their software I could indeed go forward with using the dual extruder setup on my ultimaker 2. Turns out that the software they provide does NOT come with firmware to recognize and utilize the second extruder as suggested. So My question to everyone is. Who can point me in the correct direction of the firmware i need. I am not a programmer by any means besides simple apis, and macros, in vb for app. I am in desperate need of getting this up and running I have deadlines to meet, and would be very grateful/ generous to anyone who could come up with working firmware.
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Is that for the um or the um2?
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I am trying to set up my ultimaker 2 with the dual extruders. I can put anything together but I am not a programmer by any means. any advice?
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it was stock...for about 2 hours...hahah
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How do you get from London to New York in 10 minutes? Easy.
1) build yourself a rocket roughly the size of a Saturn 5
2) fill it with fuel
3) light the blue touch paper
4.)Be sarcastic so you can hamper progress.
OK, all is clear now.
The point isn't getting there alive its pushing the boundaries of what is available and make cutting edge advances in 3\D printing. That's what I'm passionate about, and I get paid to do it.
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I'm amazed that you are printing at 150mm/s. As I said above, start with 30mm/s for a really long print and take it from there. It's really difficult to know what the problem is without a lot more information.
I print at 150, all you have to do is
1.) locktite all the screws on your machine and add lock washers. (can provide fastenall part numbers if needed)
2.)crank the heat about 350C to account for the heat consumed with the higher speed which is step 3
3.) bump the rate of material feed to about 200%
I also print through a 1.6 mm nozzle.
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PLA isn't a problem but with ABS it's very common for your printed object to fall apart very easily along layer lines because layers are barely bonding with the layer below. Even with parts that seem okay at first when you stress them they tend to break along printed layers. With PLA this doesn't happen - parts break where the stress is highest.
I have found this to be true. Pla is fairly resilient but I squash the layers by using thee overlap feature anyway and I use a very small layer Height so it slightly reheats the previous layer as it lays down the next in succession. however it does make a kindof messy print unless you use like 80-90 infill.
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This is not true, they use a prime tower when changing filaments, to get rid of the extra internal filament. I have seen them print with double colors and with pva.
Is pva a ployvinyl...acetate?
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I must admit I also bought it expecting there to be dual extrusion in the future.
Yeah same here
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Note that the builder3d-printers only use this to mix fillaments in a gradient. Quite different from dual material.
I have been looking into mixing different filaments (high carbon with pla)
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A few of the reasons why I went with two feed one nozzle,
1.) same feed rate per line but double the production
2.) exact same melt rate per line but double the production
= no material slippage yet higher production out of a single "mouth"
3.) with two feeds it will open the availability of tinkering with high carbon filament/PLA mixtures
The original problem is the low cc/m that I was achieving out of 150 mm/s through a .4 nozzle
so I bored out a .4 to a 1.6 (I could care less about ultra high accuracy in my line of work. this was perfect until the material melt rate couldn't keep up. So I knew I couldn't melt pla at more than 350C ish. So the solution was that I needed to be melting more than a few mm of material at a time. (enter Dual feed single "mouth"). Basically the general goal is print at aproximately 250-300 mm^3/s. Not too far off to imagine considering I was getting about 220 mm^3/s consistently (according to cura).
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I have found the adjustable retraction to solve the (dripping material problem).
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Absolutely. I'm just working out which material will be the most advantageous (thermodynamic-ally) and simple to use (plug and play), and then its off to our machinist.
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I'm not a big fan of the "tool changer" method simply because for me it would be re-inventing the wheel when all I have to do now is fill my tire back up.
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I've read it and many other sources online. I also found that Ultimaker decided that they were going to abandon the dual extrusion project. I think it will be more rewarding to design it on my own anyway.
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Well, I got impatient. So I'm making a dual extruder setup for my um2 with or without the support of UM. Also working on a dual feed single head for those lower res long builds.
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If it comes down to replacing the parts, I would say it is actually quite easy. Nothing to stress about and I definitely wouldn't chuck it in the bin quite yet. it looks to me like the only things you will need to replace thus far are the thermistor, element, and probably the head.
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Are you getting any errors (heater error) (heater block error)?
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Something I have found is helpful with warping is using the "raft" feature in cura, and starting with a high build plate temp and lowering it slowly throughout the process of the build. If that still doesn't work, I had particularly good luck with gluing a piece of construction paper to the build plate and then adding a layer of glue to the top of that. (only safe with lower bp temps in my opinion)
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One micron is .001 mm so if you feel like you will loose any detail with .005 mm the you may be out of luck.
As for the ultimakers Quality: If you order one you can expect to pull it out of the box plug it in, run through the setup (very non-techie friendly), and be printing in 20 minutes.
To get a really, really good print does take some learning but there is a great community surrounding the ultimaker so you can get help with technical questions pretty easy.
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For the time being I am simply zeroing the build-plate at the molded part height. But will definitely look into the Simplify3D
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I'm a but confused about the type of strength... There is a few different types so to got a good Idea. Do you wish to: 1.) resist bending. 2.) Bend but retain form. 3.) Have a high surface hardness.? I've found that if you use an infill of about 92% and a layer height that is approx 1/3 of the width with a high head heat, build plate temp of 70C ish for the first few layers, and no more than a 5 second delay between layers (ideally) of the material that it makes a build that retains form after impact. Which is more springy but more resilient. Hope this helps.
Ultimaker 2 Firmware for dual extrusion with Simplify3d
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I contacted durring the sales process and I asked specifically
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Q Can it be used directly with the ultimaker 2?
A We have an Ultimaker 2 in office that we use with Simplify3D over SD card and over USB ??
printing. There is a default profile in the software for that machine.
Q Does it come with/need firmware for dual extrusion with the ultimaker 2?
A If you've upgraded your Ultimaker 2 for dual-exrusion you can use that with Simplify3D.
Q Is it reliable enough for business use?
A Simplify3D is used by many businesses around the world, from small prototyping shops to extremely large multi-national companies.
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So I don't know if it were a matter of me being unclear or what.
They obviously have the firmware for it or they wouldn't have been able to make the ultimaker 2 dual profile that they sent me.