oddoutput
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Posts posted by oddoutput
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since installing the extrusion kit on my U2, i've found that I have to add a nice layer of glue to my bed for pla to stick.
I am trying multiple brands that I've seen pass by on here so no idea if it's the fault of that or my printer but it's certainly...weird.
Have you tried re-levelling your bed? Just installing the upgrade itself should not change anything to the amount of adhesion you can achieve. It could be that your new printhead is of a different size then your previous one due to the Olsson Block. Are you still printing at 60ºC?
If you upload a picture showing your first layer it could help us see if it is bed levelling, or maybe something else..
Good luck!
I have the bed leveled and the bed heats to 60C.
(i still had this picture of the first layer, i was curious about the little points on the brim but i forgot about it)
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since installing the extrusion kit on my U2, i've found that I have to add a nice layer of glue to my bed for pla to stick.
I am trying multiple brands that I've seen pass by on here so no idea if it's the fault of that or my printer but it's certainly...weird.
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Oh i'm gonna have to remember that one
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A heater error use to means that there's a change on the heat flow, so it can't reach the temp. That use to mean that the block it's touching something. That makes a heat transfer and the block can't keep the heat. Check, if it's touching m, if so, bend the alu/steel so it doesn't. Other option it's to print Labern fancap (youmagine/google).
Oh don't worry, I'm aware of that, I just though I had already fixed that but apparently not.
Labern's fancap also isn't really suitable in PLA, I'd guess?
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Also, since your top layers don't close well. You could try..
- Higher temps
- Slower speeds
The calibration test you print that goes ok, it might be ok because it prints at slower speeds. But now that I think it, it doesn't make sense since you are already printing quite slow. Ok, tight the x/y motors. And try to change flow from 100% to 105% on the machine. If there's gaps, then go for 110% flow.
BUT before you try any of that, you need to tell us.
- What materials you use (ABS/PLA)
- How many atomic pulls you done lately (if you didn't do 5-10 atomic pulls and print again)
- How long has (in print hours if posible) your PTFE Coupler.
- And more important. What machine model, how old it's.
I have an ultimaker 2 and only use PLA.
The PTFE coupler has been switched to times in between (not because they were bad, just to test if they were and if it might make any difference).
Atomic pulls have been done more than enough times.
I tried tightening the X/Y/ motors and changing the flow to 105%, but without any difference.
Tried changing the temperature from 210 to 220 too but that caused a heater error so I'll have to look into that TOO. I like the Ollson block but dang.
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Answered on the wrong post to other think sorry
oh omg that's okay though, it might have been good to post my settings anyways.
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I haven't really changed any settings apart from layer height and supports of course but prints before were alright.
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any idea :( ?
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(all of them in grey because it was easier to photograph than red)
but yeah
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I really wish my brain could design organic stuff. Stuff like z-brush is just black magic to me *sigh*
I really need to learn stuff like z-brush and 3dsmax because making organic shapes in Autodesk Inventor makes me want to rip my hair out.
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This is a prop that I made for someone.
It's a Stone arrow from the manga Jojo's Bizarre Adventure: Vento Aureo (it's neat)
So I made this model and realised it for them.
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with the stuff I do it's completely necessary actually.
i just use some primer and sanding to smooth it out and then use model paints if it's small and your average spray paint if it's big.
like that
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I've had a for a while now that the walls of my prints don't touch and that the top/bottom layers are full of gaps.
BUT
I have also noticed that when I print the calibration test that comes standard with the ultimaker, it prints perfectly.
The stuff I'm currently printing is pretty big so it moves around more.
Would this mean I would have to toy around with the belts?
Does it seem like the most logical problem here, becuase it does not seem like underextrusion (I get a nice little heap of material at the start of a print when it pre-extrudes before the priming and no layers that seem underextruded, just a gap between walls and top/bottom layers.)
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That movie could've been great if they had removed Die Antwoord. The whole movie felt like a long advert for the band. Completely ruined it for me.
Well, the movie was actually completely build around them, they were the actual starting point when writing the movie. Neil Blompfkamp and die Antwoord have quite the relationship (the die Antwoord logo appearing in District 9 too.)
And idk, I didn't have that problem at all and I hardly knew die Antwoord when I watched the movie first.
Let's not...turn this into a movie discussion though I guess
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Wow, awesome!!
The photo where you wear it is pretty great!
Will it have LEDs? Other cool gadgets?
Unfortunately I have not seen the movie yet.
I understand it is under your recommendation?
It will indeed have LED's, because what will it be without?
I also want to try to make a sound activated LED so I can make the "mouth" slot light up when I talk.
The bars above the eyes and under the mouth can be moved by hand for pictures and so can the ears.
And it is indeed under my recommendation, but if you'll actually like it yourself, no idea.
It doesn't have the best reviews so that's kinda sad :(
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Heya
I've absolutely loved the movie Chappie ever since it came out and I'm finally working on a wearable Chappie head for a complete chappie costume (the body will be EVA foam).
\
I've created this model in Autodesk Inventor (and the pictures are actually old already because I forgot a few details that have been added already. Aaaah, replicating stuff.)
The head is a bit wider to be able to actually fit my head inside without turning it into a bobblehead.
I first did a quick test print with my 0.8mm nozzle to see if I could actually fit this onto my head, because I've made it so that it can fit JUST over my ears.
And it fits perfectly! So that's great.
Now to print all the other parts and assemble it all.
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I've tried loosening and retightening the Z motor mounting screw and I cleaned the feeder and it worked normally again for a small time.
Now the problems are that I can run one print before it stops working again (material being ground up in the feeder somehow when it print is already done and good?).
I've tried cold pulls again but each time the material just gets stuck or I need to leave the nozzle hot enough to pull it out more like a string.
And now I've tried installing my Olsson block again and I get the problem that the bottom and top layers don't touch (plus the whole "clogged" after one print thing.)
I checked the nozzle after another attempted cold pull and the nozzle was clean, except for a little bit of material still on the wall but that couldn't have been a problem.
Filament is the right size, nozzle is clean, I use an i2k insulator if that matters.
I'm really just getting more problems whenever one gets solved :(
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@oddoutput I think you have inconsistent Z movement. When the bed doesn't move down enough you get slight overextrusion and the layer sticks out a bit. This is less obvious with .1mm layering but this looks more like .05mm layer height.
You could try a bunch of things - clean the Z bearings, push up and down on the bed feeling for friction (with power off). You could add a heavy weight to the bed to see if it looks more consistent - around 1kg. Here is much more info:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=unread#reply-129204
These are 0,2mm layers actually.
I doubt it's the Z movement because the filament already exits the nozzle all ugly, but i'll check it anyways.
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I can see this because of the layer differences from bottom to the top. At the Moment I print with Innofil PLA at 220 degree. When I try to print with 210 degree same granular effect Comes out.
good luck
I can pretty confidently tell you that the bed leveling is not the problem, as that would only affect the first layer(s)
As I said, the filament comes out like that at 195, 200, 210 and 230 so 220 will more than likely not make any difference.
I've measured the filament and it's between 2,8mm and 2,95mm.
Besides that, I've been printing pretty well with this roll of filament untill now.
Is it possible that filament gets stuck to the i2k insulator?
(I forgot to mention, I have a i2k insulator and a TFT coupler, both from 3DSolex.
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did you also tried 220 degree for PLA. But I can see on your photos nozzle is too far from print bed.
good luck
Why i try doing the atomic method I of course push the material through first at 230C. The material pictures i posted are from that.
I'm also not really sure how you can see from those pictures that my nozzle is too far from the print bed.
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The diameter of the material is 2,9mm so i would think that isn't the problem.
Next to that, I also had a roll of blue from the same brand which worked perfectly, untill now where it gave the same problem.
I switched to yellow to see if there was any difference but alas.
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Hey,
I've had this one problem before, and it's where prints get ugly because of irregular layers.
When cleaning the nozzle I notice that the materials seems to sort of pile onto each other right outside the nozzle, causing the material to get thicker and rough.
My cold pulls are clean though and there's no difference between 210C and 190C
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I just realised I missed a 'no' in my last reply, the black material did NOT get stuck, but came out kind of like your left atomic pull, except longer (which is what i've gotten like 99% of the atomic pulls I did since I've gotten my printer).
I tried setting it to 100C cooldown for the blue material and I was able to pull it out this down, although I didn't really get any nozzle shape into it and also very stretched out.
It DOES print though with both materials but there's still one problem.
The only problem that seems to be left is the shell walls not fusing together.
I guess it's not really easy to see because it's black and I can't really get a closer picture that doesn't get blurry, but there's a small gap between the shell walls, making the print less strong and I THINK also failing overhangs (45 degree overhangs looking terrible even though that should just work about right).
This is on both materials too and when pushing the materials through the nozzle it comes out just fine, doesn't seem to be anything else stuck in the nozzle either.
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I have 2 thoughts - one is that you are doing atomic pulls at too cold a temp. It should be around 90C but every temp sensor is different - for some people it should be more like 100C or 105C.
The other thought is: "is that ultimaker brand PLA"? There was a bad batch recently - the filament was too brittle. It breaks all the time in the bowden and causes prints to fail because the broken piece get stuck as it enters the head.
I've actually tried putting it hotter but to no avail.
And the material was 3Dprima, not ultimaker.
The fun thing is, I tried my other material, the black one from the first post, and I've had problem with it getting stuck this time so, idk, weird.
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Feedback on Cura 2.3.1
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I like it but I just want to put a little...warning I guess and something to work on in later versions.
I had my printer plugged into my PC because hey, it might be useful when I have to print a small thing.
The thing is now that I was printing a big piece and about 12 hours in I wanted to look at something in Cura.
For some stupid reason, Cura and my Ultimaker immediatly saw it as me wanting to print via USB and just completely stopped my current print. 12 hours and a nice amount of material down the drain.
I really hope other people won't experience that.