Franny500
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Posts posted by Franny500
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I could understand if it was bridging.... I think....but I too am confused by that.
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before i curl up into a ball and die, i have to correct you that im not doing your regular plating, most of my plates are about 100-200 microns and are far thicker than foil. more like thin metal and is very rigid so it does add tons of structural support. dont forget im still learning here but the plate is real thick in terms of plating. if it was thin i simply would not be able to sand it, period! and i love distressed copper more than neat copper.
but seeing as i have now demolished my um2 it will be a while till i post here again....
Nooooo, how have you demolished the UM2?
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Unfortuantely It wasn't me who designed the support.
I too had to use a knife to remove, and to be honest, it was on a very small piece, so in the end the Ultimaker support turned out better for that application.
But the reason I thought it was good was if it was used on a larger print, or a print with curves and tough overhangs, the meshmixer supports may do a better job because of the pointy shape.
Could be totally wrong however.
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Yeah Cura support is good. Easily pulls away in certain sections.
Also Meshmixer support is good. Like torpedo shaped supports that have a very small surface area touching the model.
Had to get someone to design them for me as I'm clueless on the design packages...for now.
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Class.
Keep up the good work
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nearly chugging**^
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Cloakfiend was you the guy chugging acetone in the video early on in this thread. I was laughing away in my office at that. Saw TheDeug's name somewhere and that confused me a bit.
Good video though man. I needed someadvice on a smoothing option for PLA and found the video very informative. Don't have time to read all the thread at the moment but skimmed it and you've done some good stuff. Consider me a fan, especially if the video is yours. Hilarious!!
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I tend to split models with Cura, using the sink into bed-plate option.
Have had great success with this. And the gluing is not as painful as you'd think it would be.
I've had pro companies more than happy with parts printed that they use as end products. Very satisfying.
It's all about splitting it correctly which comes with practice. Luckily I have what I consider as an expert to fall back on, but then we all do with this forum so..........
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Thanks Eldrick, I've had a bit of trouble with warping so wondered if little microbes were affecting the adhesion. When the guy suggested this stuff I thought it would be worth a try.
Then he showed me the bottle and I thought twice about using it 8)
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I have a friend who works with glass. Now the company he works for uses a product called BETACLEAN 3350 to clean the glass before and after he's worked with it. And he swears by it.
When I showed him my 3d printer and told him of issues sometimes with warping etc, he offered this as a solution.
Anyone ever heard of it or used it?
Seems like pretty powerful stuff. Apparently it kills the microbes the human eye can't see. Which then got me thinking, "if it is that powerful, could it damage the build plate somehow?"
Here is the stuff:
http://www.alscoltd.co.uk/product/dow-automotive-betaclean-3350/
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Excellent, thanks Labern. Very much appreciated.
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Thanks to both, we increased the inner diameter by the desired amount and it produced good results. Thanks for all your replies.
At a guess, do you think the UM2+ will have a same problem or is it impossible to tell?
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Thanks Labern that is an interesting read.
I asked my more technical (than me, who isn't ?) friend and he was a bit surprised at the difference in the tolerance between outer and inner diameters. But thanks again for the reply, some interesting stuff to read there.
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Hello All, Happy New Year etc,
I printed off a sample bearing, similar to this but taller
I printed it in PLA and then checked it. And although two of the dimensions were out, one was particularly inaccurate. So I sent it to a friend to check it. Here's what he came back with -
Intrigued by that inaccurate centre bore on the bearing print I ran a quick check by recreating the design to the 10mm outer diameter and 6 mm inner diameter dimensions of the original. What I wanted to do was eliminate any possible error from the conversion to the .stl file on the original.
I then ran the design as a print and got the same results, the outside diameter was within 0.04mm of the nominal 10mm dimension which is a credit to the printer. But once again the inner diameter came out as only 5.5 – 5.6 mm, an error of 0.4 – 0.5mm which is huge compared to the actual dimension of 6mm, and 10x the error on the outer diameter.
Am interested to know why this is happening and if anyone could help explain and offer up a solution?
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Brilliant post, thanks for the detailed reply.
I hadn't thought too much about it until a lady asked, I mentioned about the filament companies edging towards greener materials; and also about the manufacturing processes being reduced hence factory emissions are decreased. So 3d printing is striving to extend our time on this planet as a species.
Never knew about Better Future Factory and Refil. Brilliant stories! I'll be using that in my quest to educate people on 3d printers in the future.
And thanks also for the settings link, I was getting notifications but it's good to tweak the dashboard.
Thanks again for the post, I'll look forward to reading more from you
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Is this in the correct section? Anyone suggest a better category to post in?
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I was wondering what peoples' thoughts are on the hugely important issue of "green credentials" within 3d printing?
I understand that 3d printing is helping streamline lots of manufacturing processes so will be reducing the number of emissions from factories and warehouses, etc, and that there are lots of materials that are made to be eco-friendly, so that is certainly two huge ticks so far.
But can anyone else shed anymore light onto this situation?
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I am an absolute beginner when it comes to painting. Is it possible to spray paint Nylon12 with car primer? All help massively appreciated.
Multi-material adventures #1 - rigid & flexible
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
A colleague of mine printed a box with some bolts embedded into the print using the pause feature, which I thought was cool.
But he then used Primalloy as a sealant for the box, similar to what you guys did.
Anyone tried that? Don't think he had a problem sticking it to PLA.
I'll try and get a picture uploaded tomorrow if I remember.
We also used some PLA Flex white to make an e-nable hand. It had a wrist fastening type thing, we used the PLA as a section of it, and then printed the top layer in PLA Flex which allowed the wrist band to bend. Again no issues with it sticking. So just reiterating what Sander said, maybe it's the particular filament you used.