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MarcusWolschon

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Posts posted by MarcusWolschon

  1. Erster Test mit nGen in 0.40mm Düse via Olsson Block ab Ultimakjer II extended.

    Das Zeug haftet mit und ohne Klebestift bei 60°C und bei 80°C nicht auf der Glas-Platte.

    Hat da schon jemand was rausgefunden?

    Ich probiere jetzt die erste Ebene noch flacher zu machen und das Glas auf 85°C zu kriegen.

    Update:

    Zweiter Test funktioniert gut. 85°C Bed, wesentlich geringerer Abstand beim Bed-Leveln, Lüfter von 100 auf 80% runter und abnehmbare Frontplatte nicht verwendet.

    Ein wenig Probleme mit Underextrusion. NGen vollbringt schon mal keine Wunder. ;)

    Update:

    Ist zumindest nicht schlechter als PLA/PHA.

    http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.com/2015/12/testing-ngen-filament.html

  2. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/62-installing-the-olsson-block-kit

    is absolutely right. You need a spare PT100B. When I got my UM2extended (after reselling my former UM2) there was no spare PT100B included.

    This is a MUCH better instruction then the one given on the Ultimaker website. (That I was using since I purchased the upgrade there and expected it to work.)

    The Ultimaker Store has that 1eur  PT100B sensor here

    https://ultimaker.com/en/products/spare-parts

    but it's 37,50eur + VAT = 45eur + shipping =   €48,90

    By experience the UM store ships via Fexed B2B carrier. So It's something like 22+eur and I cannot receive it because I'm not a business with an office open every day Mo-Fr 8-16:00.

    The shop doesn't seem to work with the network here. After login nothing happens.

    3dSolex links to http://www.goodtube.uk/ for Europe. They don't list anything else but the Olsson Block.

    http://www.imakr.com/eu/en/order is 55eur including shipping with no mention what shipping company they use.

    ...I just ordered it to my hotel room in Hamburg directly from Ultimaker.

    There was no way to leave a comment during the checkout process to say,

    that it MUST arrive before the congress is over (2015-12-30) simply because I'm

    no longer in that hotel afterwards and the printer is needed DURING the congress.

  3. Fixed it. I was able to borrow some off-size micro-torx set and remove the bolt.

    The heater-cartridge slipped out more or less easily.

    ...the thermistor didn't. :(

    Where to get a new thermistor and how to install it?

    I have one of these expensive UM2 hotend-sets but it doesn't include a thermistor. Only the mechanical parts.

    27.12.15%2B-%2B1

    Image:

    27.12.15%2B-%2B1

    https://plus.google.com/photos/103982631119479761813/albums/6233004822427105441/6233004820129097314?authkey=CObdsbHW26WwFw&pid=6233004820129097314&oid=103982631119479761813

  4. I can't remove the set screw in the hot-end to remove the thermistor and heater cartridge.

    Only the smallest of the 3 hex-drivers that where included with the UM2 fits but it seems to be slightly too small and doesn't catch.

    ...either that or the screw is alreasy stripped. (This is the first time I'm laying hands on that screw.)

    What size is it supposed to be? T4?

    https://ultimaker.com/en/support/18017-installing-the-olsson-block

  5. Nope.

    We have CEE 7/4 "Schuko" for that.

    https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/CEE-System

    There is no 3-pin version of CEE 7/16

    As I said, it looks just like a swiss power plug

    but the center pin is not at the correct position.

    https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEV_1011

    This one looks correct

    https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stecker-Typ_L

    I can't say if it's the 10A or the 16A version.

    The sockets for the 10A version can also accept Euro-Plugs but of cause not the other way around.

    Indeed it seems to be in use in Italy. But I haven't seen them anywhere in Italy ever.

    We always had Schoko and Europlug.

  6. Yes, pretty much.

    I'll try again with thicker, water tights walls and brush-on.

    Thanks for the hint.

    There was no visible effect on the outside after 10 minutes, 30 minutes, 2 hours and more.

    It was very little acetone compared to the size of the container and it was at room temperature (maybe even a bit cold). So I figured it would take a lot longer then usual.

  7. what colour did you have?

     

    Black.

    http://colorfabb.com/standard-black

    I had raised it in a huge glass container for about a day, checking regularly

    with the bottom being just about covered in Acetone.

    The air was not to be disturbed.

    I could feel the thick, heavier then air vapour when slowly sliding the lid apart and slowly reaching into the container.

    With the Olsson Block and a new front door for the UM2extended, I'll try ABS and technical wax next.

  8. I used acetone on some Colorfabb PLA+PHA part and there was no smoothing at all.

    The layers just started to warp and come apart until the entire bottom layer had wrinkled and detach from the object.

    The infill had largely dissolved into a bucket of tiny strands.

    => Acetone smoothed nothing and destroyed the object.

  9. 5 email notifications about the same thread instead of 1 email and the next one only after I have visited the thread.

    Notification in the top right corner does not go away when I visit the thread but I have to manually click it to visit the thread that I am already in.

  10. hmmm, let me check because I don't know.

    You also said you never got any emails. We implemented a fix today.

    Could you double check if your settings are enabled for email and let me know if you receive emails?

    Thanks! :)

     

    I tried and the settings-page doesn't work.

    It shows a number of *gigantic* Ultimaker logos with some random navigation text in between.

    Looks like a stylesheet is missing.

    ..reloaded. Now it shows but saving changed notification settings results in "503 Service Unavailable"

  11. Hi Marcus, thank you for getting involved with the community! :)

    For future references, try to bundle your questions in 1 or 2 posts.

     

    One issue per posting, so quotes form a chain that can be followed.

    I was asked to mention my issues here and I did.

  12.  

     

    Clear mit Black zu vergleichen ist Unsinn.

     

    Warum?

    Nach dem Drucken wird geschliffen, gespachtelt, geschliffen, lackiert, poliert.

    Welche Farbe das ursprünglich mal hatte ist vollkommen egal.

     

    das ist doch schon wieder Mumpitz, aber das merkst du sicher selber. Und wenn nicht lohnt es sich nicht weiter zu diskutieren.

    Viel Spaß mit dem ngen

     

    Da die Oberflächenqualität nach dem Drucken nicht annähernd perfekt ist,

    ist das genau was ich immer mache bevor ich die Gussformen für die Kleinserien-Produktion anfertige.

    Außer für technische Bauteile und da ist mir die Farbe sowieso vollkommen egal, da sie nichts zur Funktion beiträgt.

    Es gibt Leute die sich nicht irgendwelchen nutzlosen Weihnachtsschmuck oder Figuren von sich selbst mit dem Drucker bauen.

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