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spark101's Achievements



  1. If i use the UMO + firmware builder, and select the "full graphic smart controller" would i be able to use the UM2 LCD display?
  2. i have a lot of questions, but first well done to the people involved in this :-) did you use the new stepper motor that came with the upgrade kit, or just use the original? the "Esteps" setting that you changed, is that due to the new motor or due to the new extruder? whats the PID setting all about, is that due to a higher wattage heater? do think i need to do the same, as i went for a UM2 hot end assy then fitted the olsson block, i didnt go for the UM2 Plus upgrade. You didnt mention about changing the pinter head size in the machine settings in cura! well you saved me the hassel of figuring out the firmware. i had to revert back to the UMO + firmware after my upgrade to the UM2 + firmware. i didnt like how the bed is leveled for the UM2 and the extruder steps were drifferent and worked in reverse. (i shouldnt of changed so much too soon) at the moment i using the UM2 + hotend with the UM2 sliding blocks. this new firmware builder, am i right in thinking that i can now use my UM2 LCD display? is that what the "full graphic smart controller" is? do you know where i can buy just the extruder feeder (the white block, not sure whats its called), i have looked every where. it might of been easier just to buy the upgrade kit but it was too much at around the £330 i bought a Hot end assy clone for £76 inc. heater, sensor and fans then bought the olsson block on ebay for around £40 pounds (new inc. four different nozzels) and the UM2 LCD display and controller for £35 (clone) bought the UM2 sliding block for £20 (clone, but they weren't perfect, had to add some tape to get them the same level) make my own cables (look the same but took some time). plus new rods for around £20 (ended up buying them locally, as the ones that arrived in the post were slightly bent) and before i forget, the fans have failed on the hot end assy after 2wks. (cant expect every thing to work on cheaper clone versions)
  3. i have looked at different posts and found that its something to do with g-code and unicode or something like that, where by printing via the USB wont home the hotend or heated bed. i will try via SD card but i have lost it, will have to buy one tomorrow. hope it works. i think im getting a bit paranoid that i have do something wrong or that my printer will just blow up.
  4. I have changed the ulticontroller to the um2, got longer rods to reach the new ul2 slider blocks and repositioned the limit switchs + changed over the hotend assy as you know. today i switched it on and updated the firmware. the front display started to work and i calibrated the heater bed (i thought it might hit the hot end and had my finger on the power button but it didnt). so it all sounds like it worked. one problem, the software (already set it um2 plus) doesnt wait for the hot end to heat up or raise the heater bed before printing. the hot end block doesnt even home itself. if i control the um2 + using the ulticontroller it functions fine, i can heat up the hot end and heated bed and control the height of the heated bed. i have even downloaded and updated the firmware with the beta 2.1 cura version. i have no idea what to do!
  5. Thanks for your help so far, i thought i could just fit the Ultimaker 2 parts in and it would be that simple. the X Y limit switchs are in different places the support rods for the heater block are longer and the Z switch is at the bottom. just found out that the Ultimaker 2 lowers the heated bed and raises it up by a set amount, so if the Z motor steps are different then the heated bed will hit the heater block. i will continue until it works. when im done i will share the info so that every one can do the same if they want to.
  6. if i cant find an easy way to activate the limit switchs, i will use your design. thank you i have just been coverting the .step files from github to .stl so that i can use the front design of the Ultimaker 2 to modify for the Original plus in Tinkercad. :-) can any one tell me why the Z limit switch is on the base of the Ultimaker 2 where as its on the top part of the case for the Original? a part of the bed setup on the Ultimaker original + sets the bed at the highest point and stops when it activates the Z limit switch, how does the switch work on the Ultimaker 2?
  7. I panicked a bit at the time, since then i looked at parts for the Ultimaker 2 and found the 6mm rods on Ebay (should arrive wed) . fingers crossed they are not bent! just need to work out how to cut the holes at the front of my wooden panel for the control pcb and display and a way for the limit switchs to make contact with the sliding blocks. may be later turn the Ultimaker into a Extended version, looks like the threaded rod for the Z axis are available too.
  8. I bought myself an Ultimaker Original Plus about a year ago, and its great. someone at work has an Ultimaker 2 and it has some improvement that were appealing so i looked at the design of the Ultimaker and found that the two are very simular (Ultimaker Orignal Plus has almost the same hardwear as the 2) any way, i have replaced the Ultimker 2 type control PCB with the diplay, replayed the X and Y wooden runners with the platic ones that support the Heater block, modified the purchased Ultimaker 2 Heat block with the olsson block, then pushed the support rods through the Heater block assy and was about to clip them on to the new X and Y axis plastic runners but they are too short. Dam!!!! the rods that go through the Heater block assy are 26.7cm long and i need them to be 2.6cm longer so that they can reach the four plastic X and Y runners. how long are the ones for the Ultimaker 2 and where can i buy them from? if they are the same size then i need longer ones, any one know what they are made from? (Stainless steel?)
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