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neotko

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About neotko

  • Birthday 09/14/1977

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  1. You can set a tool Z offset to realign the Z. That’s specially necessary if you don’t have a calibration tool for the Z or if you keep the endstop at the bottom. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_G10_Tool_Offset Using this you can change the Z offset for the tool (you can do a T0 after changing the main tool Z offset on the config.g so this kicks in). I moved the endstop to the top to avoid using this specially because the endstop at the bottom makes the Z repetition less accurate (heat, distance, etc can add 0.1 error that for me is not good enough). With an endstop on top, without the metal and a small plastic part to hit the sensor directly my endstop accuracy is near 0.025 max error. So yeah I prefer the endstop on the top not the bottom like um2. Another trick to calibrate the bed fast is to do a M18 X Y that will unlock the x and y motors so you can move it by hand and realign the z calibration knobs really fast without the bed assistant stuff. Anyhow mimicking it is quite easy with macros, but IMO totally unnecessary
  2. Tinkergnome did an awesome job to push the um2 firmware that for sure. But the hardware is what it is. Duet3D can do more (and expand to more extruders/tools) and types of heat sensors (the cheap ones or use pt100 with their sensor boards (I use that)) To adapt the tinkergnome to duet3D toolchange theres one challenge that I never did test. The PSU is on the limit for dual, tinkergnome did an awesome job balancing the power use & the heat sequence. But all that could be mimicked with some reverse engineering & using the macros. Duet3D allows to set a max power use for each bed/heaters, so it shouldn’t be more complex that setting the right limit (this is something marlin doesn’t do). The advantage is that changing stuff is just gcode txt editing that can be done through the www access of the duet3D. So in terms of trial/error it speeds things up quite a lot compared to firmware-flash-test
  3. I agree on this 100% duet3D give to that printers (that are open source and people work on features ACTIVELY) will give you more for your buck. Think that while UM gives profiles (their argument) and ‘tuned’ that’s only a reality for um3-umS that are the focus of UM now. UM hasn’t updated hardware or firmware for um2 in 3 years and much less their basic firmware (because they think isn’t needed and also they don’t make € from that). Railcore is a very interesting machine, with a really sturdy frame up to big speeds. And E3D multitool is a nice idea for dual/multitool stuff (but is more dependent on the user and less click/print). If you want to learn and get your hands dirty go for any of this 2. You will get more printer (and better frame speeds and hardware) for almost the same or less €/$ Duet3D big advantages is that can grown and personally what I love is that rebuilding the firmware is as easy as editing a gcode/txt file and clicking the reset button. Also their boards have been tested by many for years now and they are rock solid. And last point, a new um2 board is around 250€ and you get atmega, old & noisy steppers. The only UM machine with silent chips is the UMS and well... that’s for other post ?
  4. Its WAY more quiet Prints better since doesn’t has the 16 moves/second bottleneck of the 16bit atmegas. The wifi/net control works great, you can make macros to automate stuff as you want like I did to pause/atomic pull/swap color/resume
  5. neotko

    Issues with UMO+ Board

    That’s the issue umo+ uses 24V for the fans, so either the fans died or the pwm transistor died (most probably the first option than the second). To use 12V fans on umo+ you need to connect them Serial not parallel
  6. The heatsink you use is the same sold on AliExpress for um3 ?
  7. Most probably, specially because umo+/um2 use square flanged bearings and the aluminum has holes where we screw to to distribute the tension. But nothing too hard to adapt for yours
  8. I have 2 new versions that work better than his old design. We developed a holder behind the bed (like skis) that keep the weight distribution better. Gudo also on his last version of the gudoXYCore made a new bed stabilizer that mixed my skis design with a compensation system. I will dig into his step files and try to come with a version to publish.
  9. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    Is that new? Never seen that indeed on the um3 I had or on the um2plua feeders
  10. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    Indeed and I would agree on that except: a) You propose a full replacement solution (ergo doesn’t matter if you break the old one) b) Isn’t that difficult (specially because um3 feeder doesn’t have filament sensor) & there’s a nice step by step guide here https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder
  11. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    You can always try other shops... Anyway I doubt you couldn’t buy just this parts to an official reseller...?
  12. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    Correct me if I’m wrong but afaik UM since the um3 doesn’t sell small parta in general, but if you ask your UM friends for the correct part number you might be lucky. Ofc you could buy a new feeder for an affordable 95€ (motor-less?) http://ultimaker.utopica3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=625
  13. neotko

    Another take on ringing

    If I get your idea, basically you want the slicer to do motion dampening acceleration by already assuming the ranges on which the printer works? Something like this? Ofc the slicer should take into consideration the motion of tge board an compensate accordingly? Sounds like a great idea. Anyhow I see a real issue of the base of how the very old motion planner executes the extrusion. For perimeters (and 90%) of the thingiverses should indeed work. The slicer should then add an AI layer to distinguish between the big outside areas and the small details, to avoid getting under/over extrusion due extruder planner. Also, old atmegas would suffer BIG time from continuous changes on speeds to mimic a motion dampening.
  14. neotko

    Problems when printing vertical holes

    In my experience that effect always shows specially when the X/Y are out of square https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
  15. neotko

    UMO+ How to set LEDs always on?

    Set the led range and ‘save’ current settings. Your led setting will be saved and used on the next turn on
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