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neotko

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neotko last won the day on March 7

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  1. The firmware (more than just a marlin firmware since it uses marlin as it where a printer driver) you can download it and change it by yourself (is very well documented). The problem is that is signed so you can’t make your own firmware pack. To avoid this, years ago a UM guy answered my prayers (or head bangs) good hunt! This was written by Oliver on http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?t=12&hilit=Um3+firmware+signed&start=930#top Sorry to reply so late, anyhow.The printers are indeed not shipped with the micro SD card in use. However any OS you put there, will be booted first. Iow, the microSD card has priority over the onboard storage. Since we use an A20, I would suggest to head over to http://linux-sunxi.org to get familiar for the low level stuff.Alternatively, to install a 'custom iamge', it is true, we do not want to make it too easy. Not because we don't want people to experiment, on the contrary, but we have to protect our general users from themselves (or mischievous users?). When updating via the Menu (either via the internet or via a USB stick) the firmware does indeed need to be signed. The GUI checks the signature. But that's it. If you want to manually deploy a custom image, it would work something like:1) enable developer mode2) scp your rootfs.tar.xz to /tmp/rootfs.tar.xz3) run 'systemctl isolate update.rootfs.target' on the printer, which can be done either via the serial console, ssh or execute the command remotely (over ssh).This will install a custom firmware onto the machine. For small changes, as Jaime mentioned, you can just ssh in and modify/copy files.
  2. Meanwell PSU 24V a UltimakerBoard (AliExpress has cheap options (I did use 2 long ago and they work) Pt100 and 24v heater and hotend with a proper olsson You will need to (for quality) change the belts from MXL to GT2 (google many post about that on this forum) Central shafts of umo and um2 have different size, check my thingiverse neotko account for a sliderblock that allows to use them with mxl or gt2 belts (saves money on shafts) Ofc a new bed, new square flanged bearings for the um2 bed, it can buy bought at any um reseller as um2 bed kit afaik or in parts on aliexpress (um2 bed kit comes with everything even the bearings but at a cost). For the parts check the um2 assembly manual on github to see it. Or even better check the umo+ upgrade kit assembly to see how to assemble the bed and all the parts it uses. Overall is a lot of stuff, specially umo to um2, but like everything with time and money is doable 😄
  3. check the feeder for dust, maybe the bolt isn’t grabbing the filament?
  4. I would start with the basics, if you are not use to play with print speed and mm3 start with a print speed/temp test https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-temperature-fillament-test
  5. If you change a parameter (light layer height) you need to compensate the temperature to compensate the extra mm3/s The higher the layer, the more material extruded each second, so the hotend needs higher temperature to keep the pace. Try 5-10C more
  6. All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725
  7. Shouldn’t be easier to use the camera to actually detect that....? If the area around the nozzle become block send an alert... check every z change or nozzle swap, and done
  8. Or just fix the objects https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Free service and can fix almost anything
  9. Is much easier to apply the spray to a paper towel outside and rub it on the plate. Removes the bed alignment problem 3DLac is basically Nely Strong hairspray 3€ (made by the same company under other name) Smartmaterials smartstick works even with PP but is quite a mess to remove (but sticks to everything I have try). Bed adhesion sheets made from PE by Avery ) a4 laser printable stickers) work really nice and with windowasher you can reuse them a lot tpe, tpu, just heat the bed to 35 to remove it slowly and not break it, ofc they break after 10-15 uses and is a mess to replace and remove the glue. That’s my 2 cents ;D
  10. um3 and mark2 can work with 25W heaters and the bed, but with very wise heating timing to avoid using too much at the same time. So... dunno XD I bet someone does, electronics isn’t my forte at all XD
  11. Maybe that info is on the electronics of the bed github https://github.com/Ultimaker/HeatedBedUpgrade/tree/master/1155_Print_Table_Heated_Bed_(x1)
  12. Sure will upload it this week
  13. Added Gudo XY Core for UM2GO that has a couple of little treassures - Adds a smooth rod to the X for extra rigidity - Has his Bed BELT driven mod. I never tested this, but he was Very happy with this, very interesting mod treassure. This mod can be used on any UMO+ UM2 as long as you have the motor (bondtech style one for force) and you adjust the belt size etc. - Gudo also included a couple of extra images of how to assemble stuff, very important to have at hand for a build of either version
  14. Gudo last design and the normal evolution of the ZGE https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153081 Cheers every1
  15. Uploaded Gudo Xy Core files https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153081 Also, special thanks to @foehnsturm. I did put Gudo and Him in contact years ago and they talked about how to improve and make the XY motors belt tensioning system, one of the key parts for this CoreXY to work as nciely as it does. If you don't know Foehnsturm, he's the guy that came with the Mark2 Tool changer and one of the most brilliant guys I know. I won't answer any question about how to build it. For questions, use the twitter account, so everything stays public, also I will not answer any PM about this 🙂 Cheers and happy modding!
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