[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

I'm not convinced 1.75mm is any better or worse.

The normal feeder can produce about 5kg of force on the filament so if you have a 1.75mm filament going into the head that's MUCH more pressure in the head - result: plus.

The knurled wheel pushing on the filament has a smaller surface area on the 1.75mm filament (because the filament is smaller!) so it can't push as hard so you won't get the full 5kg force.  Result: minus.

I don't know which of the above 2 are stronger effects or if it all just cancels out.

1.75mm filament has to move farther to print the same volume so the stepper motor on the feeder has more precision.  Result: plus - printing very very tiny frogs that fit on your fingernail will now be able to have more precision in the amount of plastic extruded.  Note that this is only a plus for Labern who's average print is always getting lost in places like under his fingernails as his prints are almost too small to see

3mm bowden not designed for 1.75mm filament so it can get all wavy in there and result in uncontrolled extrusion.  result: minus (most people report this is really not an issue).

Overall the only reason to get the kit is if you have hundreds or thousands of dollars of 1.75mm sitting around that you want to use up.  Or if you are printing some bizarre boron carbide filament that only comes in 1.75mm (but as far as I can tell everything comes in 2.85/2.9mm).

 

I mainly got it because I have 14 roles of 1.75 sitting here. That and im more interested in the exotic stuff that seems to favor 1.75 more from what I see. Im not really looking to use it for a performance advantage. if I can get the same results as I did with the stock silver that came with it I will be happy.

Anyone recommend a good 1.75mm silver brand that resembles the Ultimaker Brand?

Also Im a cheap-ass lol. The $20 roll of Hatchbox compared to the $60 Ultimaker stuff kinda had me

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

Oh - sorry about the ugly marked nozzles.  "2" means .25, "6" means .6mm and so on.  Ignore the ".4mm" labels.  Carl at 3dsolex did a test run by hand himself.  There are only about 30 of these hand made nozzles in the world at this time.  I just don't sell enough 1.75mm nozzles to make it worth it for a big run (say 1000 nozzles).

 

Looking at the ones I have..

I see a 6, a 2, a 4.0 and well an X which I assume is .15. I just look down the Nozzle and figure it out for the most part. I need to print some case to hold these lol

[Type of screws and where to get some?]

What kind of screws are in the main body of the UM2+?

The screws that hold the side panels together and pretty much the entire machines XD.

I looked through some of the PDFs but are unable to locate those via google search by

what they are called here.

I'm hoping to find some different lengths of the same looking screws. You know for add ons like

a door and such.

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

I used a drill bit but you could use a needle file.

 

Got everything up and running! Woot. Did you happen to change any retraction and heat settings for the new filament?

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

Ok. Yes I have had one that had burrs where the securing screw goes through. this was stopping them from going all the way in and the burrs had to be removed with a drill bit.

 

Any tips on clearing it out?

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

That's no good. Have you been able to get it to work? Is it just the PT100 censor that wont fit? or the heater as well?

 

Both. None of them make it all the way down the chambers. Instructions say to use a drill if they are too small. Have been doing that but then again I spent nearly $200 for this thing so hopefully they will send me one that actually fits correctly. Sent out an email.

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

Yes I have the kit.

The install is pretty easy. As you have the 2+ it makes it even easier. You just remove the fans, unscrew the heater block, remove the sensors and install the new block.

Height and leveling will remain the same so it will be all good.

I made up a Bowden tube to reduce the retracts but you can insert a 1.75mm bowden inside the 3mm one. you will just have to make stopper at the feeder end to stop the 1.75mm bowden moving back.

I havent used the UM2+ feeder so i'm not sure if there will be issues there but i'm sure any could be resolved.

 

Yeah well I didn't have that luck. The holes on the new one are too small. I'm pretty sure I damaged my censor cables by trying to get just halfway in. Tried drilling them bigger as instructed with no luck.

And the nozzles are great, they are all marked .40 with tiny half cut off numbers on the other side. So I have to make sure I don't mix them up and stare at the tiny hole to see if they are correct.

[UM2+ Heat Enclosure.]

Hey all.

So here I am in the middle of a 16 hour print in my room with my computer... my god it's hot.

I have a ceiling fan, but im too afraid to turn the sucker on and ruin the print. So I got to thinking

about enclosures. Looked around and saw a few neat ones online. Actually looking to build this door now:

Also looking at these feet to help keep the under belly cool:

But as i read a few post, over heating on the motors can be an issue? They are already hot to the touch as is.

So I go to wondering.. on the side panels where you can clearly see the motor area... why aren't there any kind of fans? Even the small ones would be a big help. perhaps even a heat sink area on the motors. Can we buy side panels for the ultimaker 2+?

For the top I was thinking about simply extending it a little bit with some clear panels and leaving the top open just to block drafts. With those upgrades and the heated bed it shouldnt be much of a problem?

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

Yes it prints really well.

The theory is that with 1.75 actually applies more pressure in the nozzle due to the smaller surface area. Also its meant to be more accurate on smaller prints as the feeder runs faster. But I haven't noticed any real improvement.

 

You tried the kit? How was the install?

Any tips or anything I should watch out for leveling wise and so on?

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

If you want to do it properly then get the Kit from the Gr5 Store.

Its not to successful without the proper hotend and stuff.

 

Does the 1.75 print as well as the ultimaker stuff?

[Using 1.75 mm Filament with the UM2+?]

Saw the Ada Fruit video on using the more commonly used 1.75 filament with the UM2. So I picked up a role and tried myself without any luck. Is there any settings or upgrades I should try?

[PLA Treating. Where do I buy Chloroform?]

You should be able to pick some up at the local kidnappers warehouse, lol.

I think you need a licence for that. Its a very dangerous chemical. just like mercury. Just use acetone like me, much safer.

 

Does that work on PLA as well? Every time I see it mentioned I see ABS.

[PLA Treating. Where do I buy Chloroform?]

I looked over the vaping guide and it seems like a cool idea... But Chloroform on the other hand I thought was

a hard to get or rather illegal substance for the average Joe. Any ideas or better methods?

I only see a $50 bottle online. And that's it really...