Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

boogo123

Member
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
    NL
  1. Hello Didier, With a lot of patience I was able to catch all the parts seperate in 3D files with a 3D scanner. Not much modifications were made afterwards. Every part took me about 2 days to scan, over and over again just as long it had to take to catch all the details. The files are serious in size, most of them are 100 MB or bigger, which means a lot of detail were captured. Than the dimensions were brought back to 35 % of the original size, loaded in Cura and printed on my 2 printers, ( UM 2 + ) Because the objects are very difficult to scan, they are very symetric, most of the scans had to be adjusted manually. I made my own program and software to do this to make sure all the scans form a perfect mesh at the end. automatic software is not able to mesh the scans together. The results are really stunning ! and i have not seen many similar projects on the web. Non of the files were drawn or adjusted, 100 % pure scans of the original parts. Printed with 0.4 nozzle with 0.1 layer... Only the body needs over 16 hours printing time. Total printing time for this robot is 65 hours. I added some extra detailed pics. Hope this info helps Marco[/media][/media][/media][/media][/media] I added some extra pics
  2. Hello Didier, I understand but for me it was just to show what is possible to create with high end scanning of objects. so far i have not seen much of these high resolution complicated scans where all the details are kept in the 3D file and came out the same way from a 3D printer. So i wanted to share here what is possible to print, not taken from the web but build it myself from the start. I dont want to share the files public but i hope its ok to show the result here :-) Marco
  3. What information do you need ! ? Marco
  4. Yes the little robot in the middle is 3D printed
  5. Version 1.0

    1,208 downloads

    This is an 100 % copy of Tomy - Giant Robot, made in 1962 in Japan. Original size of the robot is 75 cm. I scaled it back to 35 %, about 25 cm in hight. All parts are 3D scanned and printed on UM2+ with a total printing time of aprox. 65 hours. More info can be found at: Vintagespacetoys
  6. This is probably the worlds FIRST 100 % copy of a Vintage Toy Robot printed in 3D. Tomy Giant Robot was made in 1962 in Japan. I scaled back the robot to 35 % of its original size. More info at my website: Vintagespacetoys Printed on UM2+ Total printingtime: 65 hours. Marco
  7. boogo123

    A fix for Ultimaker 2 heated bed not working

    Ok, just like many others here i also ran into the problem with the heated bed. Here is THE way to fix this problem, it works ! The problem is on the board itself and is caused by the thin ( to thin ) lines that go to the contacts for the temp sensor. I took out my heated bed to inspect the soldering, looked fine but still the bed caused problems, the temp goes crazy, runs up to 150 degrees + and than you get the error. this is how to solve it permanently.. remove the screws on the block where the 4 wires are attached. You need a soldering iron on 385 degrees max. remove the block and clean the contacts on the board and the contacts on the block. Than put new soldering on the contacts on the left ( the ones that heat up the bed ) solder the block back but only the 2 contacts on the left. Now take 2 thin electrical wired and solder them on them on the block on the right ( for the temp sensor ) In the picture you see the brown wire goes to the sensor on top, the red one goes to the sensor below. solder the 2 wires there and it works like a charm again. Here below is a picture of the solution, i think that everybody who has worked on the heated bed can recognize this and sees how the solution works. I found out that the lines on the board for the temp sensor are very very tiny, you can not resolder them, to little. but with these 2 bypasses, it works perfectly again Good luck Marco
  8. Ok, just like many others here i also ran into the problem with the heated bed. Here is THE way to fix this problem, it works ! The problem is on the board itself and is caused by the thin ( to thin ) lines that go to the contacts for the temp sensor. I took out my heated bed to inspect the soldering, looked fine but still the bed caused problems, the temp goes crazy, runs up to 150 degrees + and than you get the error. this is how to solve it permanently.. remove the screws on the block where the 4 wires are attached. You need a soldering iron on 385 degrees max. remove the block and clean the contacts on the board and the contacts on the block. Than put new soldering on the contacts on the left ( the ones that heat up the bed ) solder the block back but only the 2 contacts on the left. Now take 2 thin electrical wired and solder them on them on the block on the right ( for the temp sensor ) In the picture you see the brown wire goes to the sensor on top, the red one goes to the sensor below. solder the 2 wires there and it works like a charm again. Here below is a picture of the solution, i think that everybody who has worked on the heated bed can recognize this and sees how the solution works. I found out that the lines on the board for the temp sensor are very very tiny, you can not resolder them, to little. but with these 2 bypasses, it works perfectly again Good luck Marco [media=11773] [/media]
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!