Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

gadgetfreak

Dormant
  • Content Count

    300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
    SE
  • Industry
    Education
    (Product) design
    Fashion
    Medicine
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • On The Web

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. We have never seen this before, and we have a lot of Olsson ruby nozzles out being used heavily all over the world. I'm not sure what what might have happened, but in case you don't get it solved, just e-mail to info@olssonruby.com and we will provide you with a replacement, and ask you to return yours for analysis. Thanks Daniel
  2. Kris gives good advice. ABS is quite prone to shrinking. You could also try: - Lower cooling fans / even turn them off (I think the default ABS profile is set to 50%; try with 0%). - Redesign the model so that stress is minimized. Straight angles with thick parts will always be prone to warping and re-modeling relieve this stress might help. Some good advice from nophead at item 11 and 12 in this link: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/23/12-ways-to-fight-warping-and-curling/ Also, what is the reason why you need to use ABS? If it is because you need a higher heat tolerance, please
  3. Keep up the cool mod guys! Good work.
  4. Gijs, I agree completely. It's a design flaw in my opinion. We have also suggested a design change for future revisions/hotends. Meanwhile ask UM for a replacement pt100 if it breaks.
  5. What's the total print time and weight of the feeder and case parts Robert?
  6. Robert, I'm on the Norwegian coast on vacation all week but Anders sent me a picture of both the feeder, the custom made case and the NinjaFlex BMX handle...what can I say? I'm absolutely delighted and really impressed!! Can't wait to get back to try it out. I'm actually back for the MakerFaire in Stockholm (Sunday for my part) and I think we'd like to proudly display the feeder and NinjaFlex printing on one of our Ultimaker 2 units there. I think you should join us we can talk more over e-mail the coming days. I'm very happy that we're now able to print very flexible material with our UM2s.
  7. It's harder and harder to get by 2GB SD cards nowadays...we use 4GB SDHC cards from Sandisk with no problems.
  8. That zombie is awesome!! Is the model publicly available?
  9. If you have a slicer that supports "large" stl files (like Netfabb; I don't know about Cura), then it really helps to: - Use a 64-bit computer - Have a lot of memory and a fast CPU - Only import binary stl files (they are a lot smaller/more efficient than ASCII stl files) From the Netfabb FAQ: Q: What is the maximum file size I can handle with netfabb? A: You are not limited by your file size but only by the RAM of your system. A minimum of 2 GB RAM is recommended. Again, from Netfabb (system requirements): CPU & RAM • For a fluent workflow 2 GB RAM and a 2 GHz Prozessor are reco
  10. I somewhere that most (even commercial) slicers has a limit at around 300MB, I can't remember where now. But I guess that Netfabb (Professional) needs to be able to handle more, how else would the big printing houses like Shapeways etc be able to pack the big trays full of hundreds of models?! /Daniel
  11. Thanks illuminarti, great explanation! Now I can fall asleep a little easier I actually think my Ultimaker is pretty well tuned hardware-wise, however the Thin walls-object looked really lousy in both 13.03 and steam, perhaps that needs to be printed a lot slower than the 100mm/s that I tried? Is anyone else getting a good print with the thin wall tester: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64842 and if so - in which slicer / with what settings? /Daniel
  12. UPDATE: I have sliced and printed a new one without retraction and it looks identical to the one with retraction (I'm not adding any new pictures). So the comparison to 13.03 still holds :-/ The short belts seem tight and fine...however when I move the head manually in X direction it's quite a bit of resistance...I've added fresh sewing machine oil to X/Y rods which now makes it move nicer and will try another print. I'm still keen on answers to my questions on slippage / extrusion wheel above...if anyone knows
  13. Sure, it's always a good idea to check the belts every once in a while I tried feeling them while printing but it's difficult to get a feel when they are moving I think. I'll let this print finish first... About the filament slipping, I think its always hard to know exactly how much to turn the screw...when I change filament I usually turn the wheel by hand and it's ok. Sometimes I need to tighten or un-tighten the screw but usually not. But lately I've experience a bit of "backlash" in the extruder wheel when doing this by hand (no motors involved). If I turn the wheel a little bit to for
  14. Yes, I agree it is a bit disappointing. I'm using an SD card/Ulticontroller, I always do that (I have tons of USB devices connected so I don't want interferences on the USB chain while printing. I'm doing a re-print now of the Bumper model without retraction, I can update in an hour of how that looks.
×
×
  • Create New...