Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
  1. Never mind this was a self induced problem. Not sure why but in the Cura expert setting fix horrible A and B where selected. I turned those off and its printing happily as I type.
  2. Hello I have an air nozzle I'm trying to print it has internal cavities and passages. I load it into Cura and look at the layers with the part laying on its side all the internal cavities and feratures etc are there. I need to print this standing up right but when I rotate it up right and look at the layers most of the internal details are gone. STL model looks fine tried it in AMF, no walls are too thin. Image is a cross section. Any ideas?
  3. Thank you both. More experimenting is in order!
  4. I am getting 'nubs" in various places on prints. What is the official name for these by the way? If I print the same model in the same bed location and orientation I get the nubs in the same places from print to print. I got net fab and examined the STL model for flaws the model showed it was good. I ran the check for flaws and not a single one came up. I couldn't see any thing in the mesh that was protruding in the nub area. I haven't gone through and tighten belts as they seem to be just as tight as the day I got the machine. Any wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks
  5. I'm getting the live leveling. Just have to remember which way to turn the screws and how the bed moves around three points New glasses might help too.... Thanks
  6. Thanks Post processing on the barrel was just the muzzle end which was on the build plate. I am lazy when possible. On the carriage and wheels a little razor knife work and 100 grit sand paper not a lot. The key to this is print both the carriage and wheels in black and then go back and paint the wood on, around the bolts heads etc. I used Testors # 1140 brown, If you do just one coat and the black print shows thru some and gives it a wood look. I will ad to prints.
  7. Wow I'm not worthy...... How big is that?
  8. A bit rough but serviceable
  9. I am thinking the air temp in an entirely enclosed unit would be lower as I'm more or less enclosing a much smaller volume with only convection to pull in cooler air. I'm guessing you have some manner of exhaust too which will also bring it down by pulling in the cooler make up air. I am toying with enclosing my printer as well.
  10. Outstanding Very Impressive Based on your user name. Why did you do a Spitfire and not a FW 190?
  11. Thanks If I cover the roof more completely the temp goes way above 50. Covering the front makes the biggest difference as the hot end fan blows the nice warm air right out the front. I wonder if you can turn that fan around to blow toward the back of the unit? I think I will sneak up on the air temp, might make some manner of heat shield for the steppers.
  12. Thanks Yes I did read about ABS particles I have a powered exhaust vent running to the outside. I'm sure it doesn't get everything though.
  13. One thing that I read and appears to be helping quite a bit with ABS is to raise the cabinet air temp. I'm experimenting with packing foam sheets and change the openings to keep the air temp at about 50. With nothing the max air temp I was seeing was 35 and adhesion or warping was a hit or miss. I've had good results when keeping the air warm. My question is what's the safe max air temp that the servos etc will tolerate happily? I read 50C some where so that is what I am limiting it too currently Thanks
  14. The hood is about 3 ft above the printer now so it just grabs the convection currents. I have the hose attached to a little 50 CFM computer fan via an elbow I printed with a damper. I don't smell any fumes unless my head is over the printer.
  • Create New...