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sepl1977

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About sepl1977

  • Birthday 07/09/1977

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  • Field of Work
    Engineering
  • Country
    AT
  1. error returned -resolderd -works again...(next time i just act like i am doing this and maby it works then too 😉 dose anybody know the specs of the pt100? i want to buy one (on digikey or similar) and check if a new one solves the problem...i don't want to spend 180 Euro (!) for a new heatbed if the problem is a 40cent part!
  2. error returned... i applyed now this solution --> ...and put two cables from the pt100 to the connectors... works again (for now)
  3. thx Johnse for the reply!, but i am afraid that my soldering is better then my english 😉. With "ugly solder-clumps" i meant that i just used too much solder the first time (meanwhile my solder-joints are looking very delicious 😉).. -but next time the error appears i will make a full unsolder-cleaning-solder procedure (the last 2 times i just pushed down the pt100 and reheated the joints till the (old) solder gets liquid). I am just a little bit paranoid about solderpads -if you heat them to long/often they go off and you can drop the hole thing... dose anybody know at which solder-temperature i should do this (right now i am a little bit over 400 deg C)?
  4. today i realy wanted to get to the bottom of the problem (if you don't mind that i continue talking to my self). First i monitored the temperature while heating up, always the same: the temperature starts counting up rapidly, some times jumps back to a normal values but in the end the values gets to high and the error shows up. I found out that sometimes when it starts normal heating up (without crazy temperature values) the error can be reproduced when i fiddle around with the cables that are connected to the heatplate. i thought: "HA! got you! the cables or the connectors are the problem" but i tested it out in cold condition (made a loop out of the sensor cables [shorted the plug at the other end of the cable with a jumper-wire] and messured the resistance of the hole connection from one connector on the heatplate to the other) and everything was fine, 0.1 OHM always! i was not able to find a way to get this connection broken (pulld on cables, bend them etc...). the pt100 showd normal values too... meanwhile thinking that this PT100 has its own personality that wants more attention with a hot iron -i resoldered my meanwhile perfe smd solder work and guess what... it works again?!?! by now i can do this routine under 8min, but i want to get rid of this fuzzy problem. maby i just should buy a new heatplate but this is relativly expensive whatever...
  5. error returned... after a month (printed aprox.1Kg PLA in this time without problems) the error returned the first time... -i did the same as described above (re-soldered the PT100) and it worked again for a while. 3 weeks ago the same (i applyed again the same solution) and today it happend the 3rd time :( I have access to my workshop only on the weekend (but then i use the printer excessive ;) and the error only came when the printer was unused before (Mo - Fr). Once the printer run's for -lets say- 1h without problems i can be pretty sure that the following prints will be ok too -but if i let him alone for 5 days (no printing in this time) -the posibility that the error returns is very big -at least it seams like it... so i resoldered the PT100 3 times now and i can't beleve that the problem is still the connection to the solderpads... i will do the soldering tomorrow and maby it will help again but meanwhile i am thinking that the problem is somewhere else and the fact that my solution worked is just luck... any ideas?
  6. Solved... I resoldered the smd-thermistor (PT100) as the guy in the youtube-video and now it seams to be fixed (i am printing now over 2 hour's without problems). While the heat bed was "cold" the PT100 worked fine, but when i gets warm the values (ohm) wets wired (i tested it carefully with a heatgun). Opticly everything looked fine and in "cold" condition i wasn't able to get wrong values (pushing on it from different directions and so on...). so not knowing if it helps i just put two ugly solder-clumps on both sides of the PT100 and from that point on i wasn't able to reproduce the problem.
  7. Hi! Using my Ultimaker 2 Ext. + for 3 years now with more or less no problems but now everytime i start a print everything looks fine first but after aprox. 20min of printing the error appears and the printer kind of freezes in its current position and is not reacting on any command... -i then have to turn it off and pull the power cable to get this error away. I disassembled the printer now for the 3rd time but everything looks fine: i am messureing 108 Ohm on the solder-pads on the board (betw. point "TP73" and "TP74") and all the way up to the sensor no matter how i stress the cable or the heatbed (i removed the heatbad so i can move it arround to see if there is at one position a connection-problem -but it seams not to be one [always 108 Ohms without interruption]) of course i can not messure while the printer is running but while heating up and the first layers of printing there is everything fine (so the error is not -like in most described cases- from the start). In the worst case i have no problem to change a part but which? bed or board? thx in advance for every hint! best regards! sebastian
  8. IT WORKS!!! Finally, the print gets perfect!!! It was the calibration of the built plate. The tip from tinkergnome to do the calibration without the paper and let the nozzle touch (or nearly touch) the built plate was brilliant!!! I have to say that the original ultimaker description how to calibrate the built plate is a bit misleading (at least for me)... –I always watched the built plate while i moved the “Ultimaker Calibration Card” under the nozzle to not get pushed down what apparently leads to a to large distance between the nozzle and the plate. Because the plate is fixed on the back side i could not see if it gets pushed down so i tried to get the same paper-shift-resistance-feeling as i get on the front which results in a difference between the front and the back and so it warped only on the back side. Thx to all for taking the time to help me! The print isn’t finished jet (the printer is doing the last 5mm right now) but if you are interested i will provide photos of the finished chassis. Best regards! sepl
  9. Ah, ok this is the skirt feature for -sorry for the silly question I will try this next time. Thx!
  10. @Labern: this sounds interesting! I thought about this before that the right fan will boost the warping effect because once a little bit of the object edge gets lifted the fan blows under it. But how can i practically build a draft shield? A piece of wood? THX!
  11. Hi! Thx for the answer! Infrared thermometer is on the wish list but not available for me now I tested all 4 corners and i think i recognized a bit more distance on the back, so i made it tighter there (and generally everywhere as you said)... My initial layer is 0.27mm so this should be ok... I stated the next try right now and will report back...
  12. Hi! The same problem again... and again the warping starts at the same location: the right back side (on the left back side and everywhere else everything is fine) What is different at that specific location? Is it possible that the heat-plate does not work there properly? I stayed awake yesterday till layer 4 was started and there was everything ok... I also let the door and windows closed so there should not be any airflow...
  13. Thx so much for your fast replies! @Nicolinux: i checked the glass plate as you said and it seems to be level, but to be sure i turned it 180° so that the heat-danger sticker is on the rear side (if i have problems now on the front side i have the evildoer Maybe off-topic but a good point the thing with the layer height! Do you really mean 1.5mm or 0.15mm (like in the “Fast Print” preset)? Off course i do not really need 0.06 for this particular project (i guess this is the classic enthusiastic beginner “mistake” to outbid the new purchased gear . @tinkergnome: in the “Quality” section i let everything default so i guess the first layer is 0.27mm and yes i use glue (the stick which comes with the printer and a bit water). Thx for the hint lowering the heat plate temperature after a few layers. Ok i will start the next try now with the following adjustments: Layer Height: 0.15mm (@Nicolinux pls let me know if you really mean 1.5mm but this sounds a bit too “stepie” to me) Initial Layer Height: 0.27mm Bed-Temp: 65°C and i will go down after layer 4 to 55°C THX again for your help! I will let you know how it works out! best regards! sepl Ps: 3DLac is ordered!
  14. Hi Everybody! I have a UM2E+ and small objects become really great but now i try to print a chassis for a tracked robot-vehicle which has a base-area of 14cm X 19cm and always get warping problems on the back side of the object (on the front where the printer is open the result is ok). I read a lot of tips and hints but never get a satisfying result. My current settings are as followed: Cura version: 2.1.2 Filament: PLA 2.85mm (the silver/grey one which comes with the printer) Nozzle: 0.4mm Temperature: 210 °C Bed-Temp: 66 °C (i tried the default of 60° before) Layer Height: 0.06mm Print Speed: 50mm/s Travel Speed: 120mm/s Initial Layer Speed: 10mm/s Regular Fan Speed at Layer: 10 The rest is as the default “High Quality” preset. I want to use a large Brim but Cura don’t let me make a brim that is bigger than 1.5mm (the whole volume of the object is 19cm X 20cm X 4cm [width/depth/height] so theoretically there should be 10mm possible for my understanding –any ideas why i can’t do this?). I also use the glue-stick and a small amount of water to create a sticky surface on the built plate... The firs –let’s say- 7 hours everything looks fine (the first layer looks perfect too), the warping starts then very slowly and in the end it gets really ugly and in my case unusable (the result). The whole print takes approximately 60 hours. I also adjusted the built plate several times before (i pull/put the paper under the nozzle and adjust until I feel a small resistance and also look that the built plate is not pushing down the springs). here some pictures: I hope I did not miss any important information’s. Thx in advance for any ideas! Best regards! sepl
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