bsilverwood
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Posts posted by bsilverwood
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Looks like stringing...
Temp and retraction values tend to solve this. Verify you are using the proper temps for the material used. Also, ensure you have retraction going on. See the link below:
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Cura 2.4 has a print via USB option available.
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gr5: my reply seems to have disappeared, probably user error just like this printing problem. I loaded ABS and treated it in Cura as PLA. Doesn't work. Fixed that problem, then it printed well for a while.
Also replaced the temp sensor but the machine does not want to print below 65F.
And now I have an extrusion problem. Sigh. This technology really isn't reliable yet, I spend more hours on maintenance than on printing :-(
Thanks for your help, Hubert
First off, don't give up! I spent quite a bit of time playing with my printer till it started working as advertised. A lot of reading, trial, error, and then more reading... I'm learning new things every day...
#1 - First off, PLA and ABS have different melting points. Mixing these up could cause all sorts of issues. Lesson #1 is "screw what Cura says and work with the values for the filament itself". It should all be on the label of the product. If you don't have the correct temperatures the layers won't bond properly to each other.
#2 - Glue CAN work, but I stay away from the glue sticks because they tend to not lay down on the bed in a nice even coating covering all the workspace. I instead use a mixture of 1 part Elmer's Glue to 2 parts water and spread thin coat of it across the bed. I have a writeup about this in another post (HERE).
#3 - I have experienced the ambient room temperature thing to a degree (I can get excessive curling on large prints - similar but different to what you are seeing). I am looking into putting on plexiglass sides on my printer to help trap the heat in while still being able to look inside (this supposedly helps in adhesion, bonding, and curling).
#4 - I would also ensure your bed is level and you have the right spacing between the print head and the bed. I use a business card to measure the gap (I want to say it is a .2 gap?). Also, verify your print layers are not too far apart. If there is too much of a gap, and if your ambient room temperature is low, you could have the plastic start to cool off before the bond is made (either on the bed or between layers).
#5 - Have you also considered turning off the cooling fan? If low temperatures are your issue, you might be exasperating it with the additional cooling of the fans.
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See my recent post about what I am doing for bed adhesion... I have found that the mantra "Make it stick like hell" to the build plate helps in the curling. The glue mixture I am using is a thing of the devil (just try removing a print while the bed is still hot) so I got that covered.
The other factors (which I am still playing with)
1.) limit the infill
2.) use a raft - let the raft warp and your print stays fine.
Other things I want to play with:
1.) Make the "open air" design of the UMO+ more closed in. I want to get some plexiglass and make sides for the printer to trap the heat inside. I have heard this can help a lot (drafts can cause uneven cooling which leads to warping).
2.) print slower and at a lower temperature. Personally, with all the other playing around I have been doing, I'm getting tired of all the trial and error testing I have been doing. This might be a "last ditch effort" if it gets annoying enough to me.
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Also - I made a "large batch" of this mixture. If you keep it in a sealed container it should last for a long time. Overall cost to make this up, the brush and rags to apply/cleanup...
$2.50 (all materials bought at a dollar store here in the U.S.)
Can't beat the price...
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Wanted to follow up on this for closure on the topic. I have been experimenting a lot over the past couple months looking for the best over all means of bed adhesion. My solution is actually simple, cheap, and shockingly effective.
Kapton tape (bitch to apply and expensive to use), Blue Tape (good for small prints, horrible for large ones), glue sticks (inconsistent spread over the build plate causing "pockets" of un-adhearable area), and AquaNet (messy to apply and runs the risk of gumming up the other mechanicals inside the printer) all have had inconsistent effects. Wider brims, anchors, and the like needed to be added to the prints in order for some of these to work semi-constantly.
The solution was simple after scouring messages boards. I will take no credit for this solution, but I will attest that it works:
1 part Elmer's Glue to 2 parts water. Mix and apply with a brush and/or rag to smooth it out evenly (found applying on a warm bed is easier and it dries quicker). Parts stick EXTREMELY well on this. Make sure the plate is COMPLETELY cooled before you attempt to take them off (I have actually broke parts I printed because I tried to remove them before the plate is completely cooled). You will sometimes hear a "pop" of the plastic releasing from the build plate when it is completely cooled.
Cleanup is easy. Elmer's Glue is water based, so hot water cleans it off. Of course it is recommended that you also clean your plate off with alcohol before and between applications.
I have so far successfully printed about 10 prints with one application of this (I think I can still do many more prints before having to re-apply the coating. I am testing this out, but at this rate I might go another week or two before hitting failure and I wanted to update this post first). As long as you let the bed cool off before removing the part and also "dust off" the build plate between prints (remove any other debris with a lint free rag) you should be good. pre-mature removal of parts, besides potentially damaging them as mentioned above, can mess with the coating and you will need to re-apply.
I hope this helps anyone coming across the same issues...
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I have done a thorough cleaning of the glass plate, spread a nice layer of glue, and also raised the bed temperature a couple degrees. It appears that I am maintaining my bonding to the build plate now.
However, I might have a secondary issue now of curling on the corners of the build. Not sure if this is because of the increased temps on the bed or something else.
More experimentation is in order I believe.
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UMO+ was around 995 when I purchased it. The upgrade extrusion parts will run you 400. Seems like your saving some cash. If you love tinkering, adjusting then go after the UM0+, if not go with UM2. When I first purchased the UMO+ there were times when I asked myself "why didn't you just get the UM2 you cheapa***!" LOL
I ask myself the same question... I have been tempted to make my printer kindling more then once
However the forum community here has been incredibly helpful answering questions. Plus, I have learned A LOT about my printer in the process.
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Maybe it has too much room. Can you push it out/in when is off? It might just need a slight correction (take out the nut, screw the knurled bolt in a bit more and then secure the nut again. I can't find a good picture of the umo+ feeder assembly but I think you get what I mean.
It's pretty tight when it is on. It doesn't appear to be getting pinched, wedged, or anything odd. Just the knurled wheel creeps out.
I'll try the printed part, and I am working to get an OEM version too.
Thank guys for all your help!
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Follow neotko's advice. In addition to making sure the glass is perfectly clean (don't touch it with your bare fingers), you can apply some gluestick and spread it around evenly with a wet cloth until you can barely see it anymore.
Also try using a brim on troublesome prints. You can increase the width of it in Cura if the default (8mm?) is not enough.
As neotko said, the disadvantage with getting the part to stick to the glass really well is that it can be hard to remove it. I'm usually too impatient to wait until the bed cools down and I bent my removal tool. Fortunately I have not damaged the glass bed (yet).
I will do a thorough cleaning of the plate tonight. I might play with the brim too.
Does the bed temperature matter at all? 60 degrees should be enough?
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Does this Delrin clip do more then a cotter pin? Is there some other subtle piece of engineering (that I am missing) and design of this clip I am missing verses using a cotter pin?
All the clip does is prevent the knurled shaft/large gear/gear cover/acorn nut assembly from working its way out. It snaps on and off the shaft to make it easy to remove the assembly and clean the knurled shaft if needed.
You should contact your reseller to get a replacement clip. They will probably direct you to fbrc8 who are the Ultimaker service center for the USA. Your UMO+ has a 1-year warranty, so keep that in mind.
I just reached out to them. In the mean time, I'm going to see about the printable version of the clip. The feeder should be able to stay together for something as small as this.
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Check minute 4:12 and see that part how makes that the feeder bolt can't move back outside
Yeah, the cotter pin I have is long enough that it rests on the bolts like the video shows, but it bounces back and forth between two of the nuts during extraction/retraction steps in the print.
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That part was not in the kit. I know... thank you Ultimaker...
I have printed one out, though, but haven't installed it yet. Instead I have a long cotter pin that extends out and bounces between two of the nuts on the back side of the feeder (back side from the angle of looking at the gear).
I figured that the cotter pin is enough, but obviously it is not. Does this Delrin clip do more then a cotter pin? Is there some other subtle piece of engineering (that I am missing) and design of this clip I am missing verses using a cotter pin?
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Probably that turn closed the gap between the barrel/nozzle. The extra burned residue will stay outside around the outside barrel/nozzle between the aluminum block.
If doesn't leak anymore great. I would do a couple atomics to remove any burned filament that could have leak inside. Just in case and to avoid future clogs.
I have done a few of them, if anything to get the practice down. Thank you again neotko for all your assistance with this!
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So - with most of my initial build issues of the printer resolved over the past week I have been experimenting with different prints (useful items and toys) in the PLA that was supplied with the printer.
What I have found is that on larger prints (hight or bed area) I tend to loose adhesion.
I'm printing at 210 degrees and a bed temp of 60. I am using just a glue stick on the glass. Should I do more? I have heard for PLA I should consider 70 degrees for the bed temp. I have head using AquaNet might be a better option.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Hopefully my last question here with the general assembly and setup of my printer.
I have noticed that if I do prints with lots of retraction, it causes the main gear on the feeder to loosen. Watching to see what is happening, it appears that the knurled wheel backs itself out. I can tell this because the bolt clip slowly extends out past the nuts on the back side of the feeder and i can physically see the groove in the knurled wheel moving outward. Depending upon the print I have even seen it where the nut falls off and obviously ruins the print.
Has anyone else seen this before or have had this issue? What solutions have you used to prevent the knurled wheel from moving?
I have printed a new large wheel that seems to help mitigate the issue, but still doesn't solve it.
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I think I got this figured out. While the nozzle was still hot (approx 150 degrees) I was able to turn it still about a quarter turn. All leaked residue ended up burning off and sealed the unit.
Long term, I am not sure how this will work out (the self sealing aspect). I figure if I swap out nozzles I will leak again. Also, the block is now almost perpendicular to the fan housing instead of perpendicular as all the diagrams I see online show it. I assume this won't become an issue?
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Attaching images. I'm not sure what else I can do to eliminate these leaks! The one on the top of the bock seems to be better now, but the nozzle one is a real PITA.
The material is coming down all over the nozzle and screwing up a print. I get maybe 30 minutes into use and it's all gummed up again.
Please I need some advice here. What am I doing wrong?
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One of the questions I have is that the block is "shorter" then the combined shafts of the nozzle and the isolator tube. So, should the isolator tube be tightened till the point it is flush with the heater block?
The pictures in the installation guide are not very clear on this...
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I just replaced the hot end block, tube, and nozzle and I am STILL getting leakage over the top of the heating block.
Very curious to what I am doing wrong here... I assume it is something obvious that I am just missing.
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When I cranked up the heat to 150, I was able to pull out the Bowden Tube.
Neotko - Step "f" - what do you mean by the barrel? Do you mean the block? If so - I can't really move it due to the sensor and heater attached. I mean I could remove it and do a full turn I suppose.
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OK - Problem doing the atomic pull on my UMO+
I can't seem to get the Bowden Tube out from the print head.
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Hi if you have or can borrow some “ isopropanol Alcohol 99% Isopropyl liquid cleaner" it is great at getting filament off the hot end. It is used mainly for cleaning electrical contacts but I tried it on the hot end and it works a peach - recommended to me by my American friends,
This will be option 2 if I can't get all the excess off via Neotko's solution.
Just have to remember to ensure it is all dried off before raising the temp on it! LOL
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Neotko - This is my project for tonight. As soon as I get home I will take off the fan cap and take better photos to post on here.
You can see on the top of the bock where the nozzle goes into has a more metallic silvery discoloration (as well as along the sides of the nozzle). Gotta love Ultimaker for providing us a spool of filament, but the color choice for troubleshooting is less then to be desired...
PETG on UMO+
in Materials & profiles
Posted
Hey everyone - any concerns I should have with trying PETG on an UMO+? I noticed that the settings for it is not in Cura (so I will have to plug those in myself it seems).
Any tidbits of lessons and info would be great!