renarj

I have been enjoying using my Ultimaker 3 now for over 3 years without much issue, however over the weekend it started suddenly acting up when after a routine print I got an ER16, Z-Switch stuck error. I tried the print a time after that and again the same error, i cleaned the printer completely no debris or anything in there. Today I thought let me give it another try and this time I got ER18, communication error to print head. I looked at the print board to make sure all cables are still secure and all is looking dandy, the z-switch also looking great still. I am really wondering what is wrong with the printer, is the logic board dying here? Or could it be the power supply? The printer has been in good use over the last three years, but not heavy daily, so bit strange what this could be, anyone any clues?

The problem was that in this case I used a previously calibrated printcore combination that that had this big offset on the x/y. Due to it was previously calibrated, I guess I did not get a calibration warning. The big offset was due to a problem with the slider blocks before, guess I just never printed with this particular combination after that was resolved. Next print after recalibrating was a success, back to printing

It seems I can hopefully answer my own question, it seems when I swapped in the BB print-core it had set the X/Y calibration differently to +15 for X and Y for some reason, i ad this setting way in the past due to some defect in the printer which since then has been corrected. Don't exactly get why it gets back those settings, trying another print and seeing if this is ok now.

So I wanted to do a big print tomorrow with PVA support material so I thought today let's make sure the BB print core still is ok as I hardly ever use it. However after swapping the core from AA to BB I did a test print (a mini eiffel tower) and now it has a weird misalignment. The support material seems to be a bit of in the x/y direction vs the main PLA layer. I took a picture from above the print, and you can see the support material should been centered but its not, bit hard to see but its there: Is this a simple matter of re doing the x/y alignment? Would like to understand this a bit as the print tomorrow is going to take almost 1 1/2 days and don't want it to be messed up?

I am facing exactly the same problem, it was quite annoying today as I have ABS in core 1 and PLA in core 2. When printing with core 2 only it will do the first layer fine, but then primes core 1 and that will go wrong as it uses a temperature well below the priming temperature for ABS and hence it does not stick at all and drags it around. Lucky I was there today to rescue the print today. Can this be recognised by Ultimaker and resolved in Cura?

I also suspect the z-axis movement to not be entirely perfect, will check this when the printer is back from the slider block repair. Have updated my profile. Thanks for all your help its really invaluable helping me forward with ABS prints

So today I have done a longer print again and with a cover both on the top and the front window, here is the result: I have printed with a layer height of 0.2, speed 40 mm/s, temp 255 and bed at 100 degrees. Yet i still see the lines on the print being unequal for a bit? Is this just the level of print i should expect? Anyway unfortunately i will have to send the printer in for repair now as the slider block is cracked (known issue) before I can experiment further. But just want to confirm if this is as good as it gets for ABS on the ultimaker?

So after quite some fiddling i have this ABS sticking issue down and had quite some nice prints with ABS. However today I had my first failed print when i got home where i had layers split on me in the print. Strange thing is that I had two almost identical objects being printed where one was on the left side of the build plate and one on the right side. The left one seems to have a layer split, find it so strange that only the left object has this problem? In the picture you can see layer split on both the left and middle object which where on left side of build plate, the right object is totally fine and perfect. Used temp setting of 255 for nozzle and 85 for build plate and build plate adhesion is excellent to the point i have trouble getting the prints off the plate now. What am i doing wrong? Is this a fault in bed levelling perhaps, i have active leveling still on?

I started turning the bed more towards the nozzle and this seemed to do the trick first print stuck properly and completed fully. Also I started using abs juice on the glass plate, this seems to also help quite a bit. However the second print which took a lot longer and is a lot higher started hitting the nozzle once it reached roughly 15mm. Any idea why this can be, did I move the bed up to much to the nozzle? Find it strange i have to manually do this for an ABS print, why cant cura/ultimaker do this automatically for me. I have also ordered some ultimaker ABS supposedly this is a lot better, will have a see tomorrow if this make a difference.

I just received my Ultimaker 3 last weekend and am trying to get ABS printing to work. However I am really struggling to get it working. With PLA I have no issue whatsoever and the prints are fantastic, but ABS is really troublesome. If I print with a Brim, the brim itself will not stick to the bed at all. When printing with a raft at least the raft will sort of stick but it starts curling rather quickly. Also after the print the raft is very loose and can easily be removed. Somehow yesterday i got one print working with a raft, however the bottom layers of the model on top of the raft started curling, all top layers where great though. Settings tried: Head Temperature: 230 / Build plate: 90 (this worked sort of but with curling) Head temperature: 250 / Build plate: 80 (no sticking whatsoever) - Tried with hairspray (works great with PLA) - Tried with the provided glue stick Note: Cooling is off for all settings i tried so far. ABS Used: Performa ABS White I am getting a bit desperate and unsure what else to try? Was really hoping that a printer in this price range would be a lot better with ABS. I am looking for tips that can make the difference here?