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latreides

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Posts posted by latreides

  1. Anyhow now I see. You don't find that brand making 2.85mm.

    Not quite. I can find plenty of brands that make 2.85 mm, thats not the issue.

    Well, find a better brand.

    I am not sure how the availability of 2.85 mm or not makes a brand better than another one. Would a brand that sold garbage 2.85 mm be better than a brand that only sold 1.75 mm?

    There are plenty of plastics and colors to choose, and that brand colors are hardly hard to find.

    This was never an issue.

    on hard to find (unique) materials or on the top brands (not china or low quality).

    I don't use unique materials, so that isn't much of an issue for me. Its the "top brands" situation you mention that I worry about. I have printed with a few "higher end" brands like Ultimaker and Polymaker and after about a kg of each, I can say with certainty that they don't provide a better print than the filament I get for $15-$20 per kg. I don't want to be in the situation where I pay a premium of 3x the price because they are the only game in town.

    Also, you can just install a second hotend/extruder with 1.75mm and use 2.85 or 1.75 as you see fit.

    I have gone down the path of installing after market 3rd party hotend/extruders before (I installed a Titan Aero in my other printer), and its not an enjoyable experience. Its hard to trouble shoot and problem solve when your setup is not only uncommon, but also not official. There is also the matter of very little information for the 3rd party solution. I like to know that it exists, but without more information (like how do the parts stack up to the official UM2+ parts, will they last, how good does it still print 6 months from now?)

  2. Sounds like the normal retraction noise I think, though if you want to send a video I could listen to it. You could turn off retraction, but the quality of your prints will suffer.

    Its fairly loud, made even more so by the normal quiet operation of the UM2+. I was just wondering if there is something to check to see if maybe something is not operating as smooth as it should be. Its only really noticeable when I have z-hop settings in S3D.

  3. it would freeze at the same point

    When printing via USB if your computer stalls for a fraction of a second it can interrupt the print (or stop completely if it goes into standby). This isn't a very reliable way to print, since the connection to your printer isn't a priority for your computer. Using a Raspberry Pi3 with OctoPrint, AstroPrint, or Formide, is a good solution to this.

  4. TIANSE?

    Doesn't look like anything special at all

    https://www.amazon.com/TIANSE-Printer-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01NCRVSF6

     

    I never made a claim otherwise. The claim I made was that there are vendors/suppliers that don't make 2.85 mm (and never have) and some that no longer make 2.85 mm. I didn't have to scour the corners of the internet to find a filament supplier that doesn't support 2.85 mm either, all I had to do was look at the filament I was already printing with and search those brands, and the results were not good.

    I am not sure what we will gain by more discussion, but I am happy to answer any more questions.

    • Like 1
  5. But then again, if that is a deal breaking concern you are most likely a medium sized company with mission critical need for the printer and as such will just buy a new one from a company that is still in business and will provide you with support.

    I wouldn't worry about it.

     

    I am not a business, of any kind, and its a definite worry I have. I think its even more of a worry for those that are not a business. A $2500-$3500 printer is a hard purchase for someone not getting any income back from it. Now thinking that the $2500-$3500 might be a paperweight if the company building it decides not to support it or goes out of business, thats a hard pill to swallow. I admit that this is an unlikely scenario, but I have had plenty of experiences that tell me its prudent to be prepared for this, or at least know how it will affect you.

    Not quite the same (and its only one of many examples), but Sega looked to be doing pretty good with the Dreamcast, it was a refreshing departure from the Saturn and the awful mess of the Genesis add-ons. It came as a pretty big shock to me, four months after I bought a Dreamcast, they announced they were no longer a platform holder and the Dreamcast is discontinued. Enough research, and pessimistically connecting the dots, might have shown that they are headed that way, but it was a surprise.

    I have seen many other situations since then, from major companies being bought out, refocused, and existing products discontinued, to closing their doors when you thought they would go on forever.

    I am not trying to sound like I think that everyone should panic and stock their cellars with TFM Couplers, my original question was just one of planning. What parts should I be paying attention to for replacements, what ones should I buy a few of for just in case purposes, and what ones are generically sourced.

  6. My original goal for the topic was more about how long should I expect this to work before replacing parts, and how long after Ultimaker discontinues support/replacement parts for the machine (or they go out of business) will the machine function before it has to be replaced. Some of these components are generic components, and some are printable. The rest are Ultimaker specific. Even "open source" doesn't help if there is no longer a big market for the 3rd party parts.

    As you are doing with your calculations, I like to take the most pessimistic approach (for example Ultimaker going out of business) and then I am ready for the worst.

    A list like this is great, and it will definitely help consumers not only make a more educated decision, it will also give users point by point inspection guide for part replacement. If we could just get more accurate data and remove some of the guesswork, it would be very useful! Keep at it! I am very interested in the final form this data presents!

  7. I no longer have any 1.75 mm to look up brands again (and I didn't make a list), but one off the top of my head is TIANSE which I had a lot of.

    Its not that you cannot find a lot of 2.85 mm out there. There is quite a bit of it to be sure. Please don't get me wrong. I am not having trouble finding 2.85 mm right now. Its just that in my research to figureout if the UM was the right purchase for me, I left very few stones unturned, and what I found for the filament sizes was worrying. Obviously not enough to deter me, the machine is fantastic.

  8. @latreides, congratulations with getting an Ultimaker 2+. I'm sure you will be happy with it.

    Oh I am very. It just works. Thats all I ever wanted out of a printer. This printer is amazing. I am glad there are at least 3rd party solutions, though an official solution would be perfect.

    You have a concern that 2.85 might go out of fashion, and some users here don't.

    I didn't research for very long and I found numerous vendors and suppliers that stopped 2.85 mm support, almost all of the brands/vendors that I used for my 1.75 mm do not make 2.85 mm versions (or I cannot find them online anywhere), and the number of printers released every year that support 1.75 mm dwarf the number of 2.85 mm printers (and thus the number of people buying filament). That paints a pretty clear picture to me. You can interpret it however you want, but it tells me that 2.85 mm is on borrowed time.

    That being said, the fact that there IS a solution, even a 3rd party one, was enough to convince me to buy an UM2+, and its quite an amazing machine. No regrets here, just voicing worries so that maybe an official solution can be made.

    And I'm curious to see what you will be making. Care to share your prints with us on our 3D print page?

    I definitely plan to.

    • Like 1
  9. I have only used my UM2+ for a little over a week and I have quite a few scratches on the glass bed from using a removal tool to pry under the part (when its a part with a large base). Do normal "glass scratch" solutions work on the UM2+ bed? I do not want to get a custom piece of glass and cut it to size, nor do I wish to pay the asking price for most UM2 bed replacements, since it seems like I will be doing this regularly.

  10. So, go use a machine that does not. It is that simple.

    After many weeks of searching, I could not find a comparable machine to the UM line that uses 1.75mm. The closest I could come (in the same general price range) was the MakerBot Replicator+ but it doesn't allow non-MakerBot filament (which is far worse than using 2.85mm) and lacks a heated bed.

    I ended up buying an UM2+ shortly after I made the original post in this topic, but that doesn't mean I am not still worried about the future with 2.85, quite the contrary, I am even more worried. "You don't like it, get something else" is hardly the way for a company or product to grow. Without people voicing concerns nothing will improve. This is my concern. This is my voice. I don't intend for it to be an argument.

    I like knowing that there is a 3rd party conversion, though the whole reason I choose UM was to avoiding having to tinker with a printer, especially with a 3rd party add-on. If there were more than a couple success stories about this add-on, I would likely take the plunge, but information like that is hard to come by. This was another reason for creating this topic. To get feedback, either from people looking to do the same, or people that have already done it and can speak of their results.

    Ideally there would be an official conversion. If enough people voice their concerns, maybe there will be?

  11. I think some of you continue to miss the point I am trying to make.  Its not about what printers support 2.85 right now.  Its not about what vendors supply 2.85 filament right now.  Its about the trend towards 1.75.  Almost all new printers are 1.75 and some printer brands that used to be 2.85 have moved on to 1.75.

    The number of printers being released is increasing each year, and almost all of them are 1.75.  Even if all of the current 2.85 printer companies stayed that way (which is not the case), they are becoming even more rare because 1.75 is saturating the market.   This means that outside of first party, and a few select third party, many vendors are not going to support the 2.85 size because its such a relatively small market.  I have found many cases of vendors (and the manufacturers) dropping support for 2.85 filaments for this very reason.

    Because of this, I worry that in a couple of years, I might be forced to spend 3-4x the price for filament that I pay currently.   Right now I can get 1 kg of really good filament for $15 (if I don't care about which color I get) or $20 if I do, or I can spend $50 for 0.75 kg from Ultimaker or similar.  I like that I have the choice.  What happens when these other vendors decide its not worth supporting the 1% of printers that use 2.85?

    • Like 1
  12. I have printed a few things with the UM2+ using the provided filament and Cura with default settings for UM2+. Every one of my prints has weird artifacts in the print.  You can see these in the image below.  Not the part thats curling up from the bed, but the actual marks in the sides.

    part.jpg.8a43cdf92238a039af9b3a35ba38464a.jpg

    I am not sure if this is related but my first print was a test print that was on the SD card.  It printed a large circular wall around a small flat square.  The wall printed perfectly, but the top of the flat square was fuzzy and un-level.

    part.jpg.8a43cdf92238a039af9b3a35ba38464a.jpg

  13. @kmanstudios

    I understand your reasoning, but the price that UM is asking for their products is not an easy price when you go into it thinking that you are going to replace it in 3 years anyway, so it doesn't really matter. If UM was priced at a more "disposable price" then I would agree.

    When I buy new technology, as a home user or as a business, I consider the replacement price, I consider what it would cost if the company were to close their doors the next day, I consider the complete price. I don't enjoy throwing money away. Its different if you buy a product that looks like its going strong, and it dies a year later (who can guess these things in the tech sector?). But buying something that clearly has the writing on the wall (2.85 mm) seems like you are just asking for trouble.

    I am obviously interested in the UM. I am not here to troll or vent in any way, I am here to air my worries and see if there are official solutions or quality 3rd party solutions. All we have so far is a 3rd party solution on gr5's store, with very little information on it, how well it works, gotchas, etc... How many people here have done this mod? Any success stories? Failures?

  14. I judge the usefulness of a product, in part, by how well it will work if the company that makes it were to go out of business.

    Of these failure points, how many of them are UM specific parts and how many of them are just generic/standard parts?

  15. I'm not sure about US, but in Europe there are a number of decent brands having 2.85 version of PLA together with 1.75 under 30Euro/kg.

    I am not worried about today, I am worried about tomorrow. I can find a decent amount of 2.85 today, but it is harder to come by than 1.75 as less vendors sell it, less manufacturers make it, and even when they do, they offer less selection than their 1.75 filaments. As the number of 1.75 printers grows (seems almost exponential these last few years) and the number of 2.85 printers just kind of stagnates with one or two additions every now and then, the incentive that most manufacturers will have to make and supply 2.85 is diminishing.

    I do not want to be on the losing side of a standards war. I've done this enough over the last couple decades, from VHS/Beta to BluRay/HDDVD.

  16. While reading up on the UM2+ I found some topics discussing the TFM coupler, mentioning that its a "consumable", a part that is intended to be replaced on a regular basis as it fails.

    This has me thinking:

    What other "consumable" parts are on the UM2+?

    How often do these need to be replaced?

    Are they all proprietary like the TFM coupler? (i.e. they are specific to the UM printers)

    What should I do to avoid replacing them? (For example, how long every day can I run the printer at 230c without damaging the TFM coupler?)

  17. There are quite a few filament manufacturers that make good 2.85mm filament--off the top of my head: Ultimaker, Faberdashery, ColorFabb, and Protopasta are some of my favorites.

    I am not happy paying $40-$80 per kg for PLA when I can get some really good PLA for $21 from MakerGeeks (or $15 if I don't care about the color). With the amount of filament I go through, the cost difference is non-trivial. What happens when these other places and brands stop supporting the 2.85 standard because it doesn't make business sense to cater to such a small number of printers? With little to no competition, what is stopping the limited number of suppliers from increasing their price even more as the availability of 2.85 decreases? I am worried about a non-forced vendor lock-in created by other vendors moving on to more lucrative pastures.

    I think gr5 has a 1.75mm conversion kit at the gr5 store.

    I will look into that, thanks. I just want to know that the option is there when it is eventually needed.

  18. Hello Ultimaker community!

    I am considering getting an Ultimaker 2+ but the one thing that has me hesitating is the 2.85 mm filament.

    The writing has been on the wall for a long time now (1.75 mm vs 2.85 mm), and with Ultimaker releasing the Ultimaker 3 that still uses 2.85 mm filament, it seems like Ultimaker is ignoring this writing and that has me worried.

    I do not personally care about the differences between them except that it seems like fewer and fewer filament suppliers/manufacturers are supporting the 2.85 mm standard.

    Is there a light at the end of this tunnel?  The forums have topics about people hacking together their own 1.75 mm support, are there any plans for Ultimaker to release a 1.75 mm adaptor?  What about a quality 1.75 mm 3rd party kit?

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