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  1. latreides

    Ultimaker 2+ Spool Holder?

    I tried looking through the various repositories there, but I could not find any spool holder listed. The two that looked the most promising were the UM2 https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 and the UM2+ https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus repos, but I could not find any mention of the spool holder in either of them. Are you certain they are found on github? I assume they would be STEP files, rather than STL?
  2. I have been trying to find (with very little success) an STL file for the official UM2+ spool holder. Does such a file exist? I know there is one for the UM3 at https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-spool-holder but I could not find anything for the UM2/UM2+
  3. latreides

    Cannot get Cura to make a decent print on my UM2+

    Unless you have custom hardware modifications (like a new extruder with a different gearing ratio) then you should never have to adjust the extrusion multiplier greater than 1.0. I have found, 99% of the time, when you are not getting enough extrusion, its because you are printing at too low of a temperature. The walls not connecting is likely an artifact of this, the filament is coming out 'thinner' and not "squishing" enough. That being said, there is an "Outline Overlap" setting that you can adjust (mine is at 35% for my UM2+) that might help you here. Beware though that you might just be hiding another issue (like too low of a temperature). Also make sure that you have the filament size set correctly (you should generally do this every print, on any slicer, but at least once a roll).
  4. latreides

    Cannot get Cura to make a decent print on my UM2+

    What you quoted was the user saying that they also experience this in Cura 2.4 (which was the original suggested solution). It does not say that he is currently using Cura 2.4 just that the recommended solution does not work.
  5. latreides

    Cannot get Cura to make a decent print on my UM2+

    You assume that I have stayed on 2.5 (I was never on 2.4). I keep my Cura up to date. While Cura has gotten better, S3D still generates better GCode, has fewer issues and has many features that Cura lacks. I still use Cura when doing dual extrusion on the UM3 because S3D's dual extrusion is terrible, but for all else, I find that S3D always has a better print.
  6. latreides

    Cannot get Cura to make a decent print on my UM2+

    If you are using a UM2+, my recommendation is to not use Cura. Use Simplify3D. If you are using a UM3, Cura seems to work fine (I cannot get S3D to work with the dual extrusion on the UM3)
  7. latreides

    Extrusion issues UM2+

    What I ended up doing was replacing the entire hot end with parts from thegr5store.com I bought these: ULTIMAKER2 HOT END HEATER 40W (SKU: HEATER40) TFN (HIGH TECH TEFLON) SPACER FOR UM2 OR UM2+ (SKU: TFN) TEMP SENSOR (SKU: temp-sens-um2) STEEL COUPLER V2 (SKU: steel-coupler) MATCHLESS NANO KIT (SKU: nano-kit) I also upgraded the extruder to a Bond Tech extruder. After these upgrades, it has worked perfectly ever since.
  8. latreides

    How to print in place?

    I use the 0.4 nozzle, and as far as the print, there have been many over the last year or so. They are all parts that dozens of other people report perfect success with.
  9. latreides

    How to print in place?

    I have been printing for awhile now, and I have never managed to get a "print in place" print to work correctly. What I mean is that any print that has movable parts that are intended to be printed as a single unit, never actually move. The parts are welded to each other. This happens no matter what slicer I use (Cura or S3D) and no matter what print material or brand I use. Additionally (and probably caused by the same issue), any time I print a part that should fit in another part (with small tolerances), it never fits. I understand that there is expansion and shrinkage in 3d printing, and the various reasons that the occurs, but clearly other people have managed to get these prints to work just fine. Any advice?
  10. I installed Bondtech DDG on my Ultimaker 2+, and this is what I did: Install the Hardware. Install the TinkerGnome build from TinkerGnome's website (make sure you install the right version!) Reset to factory defaults Calibrate the bed (this occurs during the wizard after a reset) Set the steps per mm to the correct value (unfortunately this can only be done, afaik, after the wizard completes) Note that the change filament routine doesn't use the steps per mm that you set in the normal fashion. Unfortunately there is no good way to do this. The suggested solutions are to patch and build your own version of TinkerGnome or use the version that Bondtech has already provided (and hope they keep it relatively updated). I think that the solutions are worse than the problem, so I just deal with it. The down side is that when changing filaments (with the change filament routine) it doesn't completely retract the filament (it gets about 95% of the way there and you have to use the quick release to remove the rest) and the initial feeding of the filament doesn't feed as much during its "quick" phase so you wait a little longer for filament to come out the nozzle.
  11. Yes its very similar to the stock extruder except its made of sturdier materials and grips the filament better and from both sides.
  12. So the past couple months my UM2+ has been getting worse and worse to the point where it cannot print anything at all. The extruder constantly grinds the filament and doesn't extrude the correct amount (sometimes nothing at all). I posted about it (with pictures) here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/52126-extrusion-issues-um2 I decided to upgrade the extruder as the first step in fixing/troubleshooting this, and went with the DDG. Without any other fixes/upgrades (those are on their way), the DDG has made a night and day difference. My first (and so far only) print on my UM2+ since the upgrade (yesterday) went very well.
  13. latreides

    Extrusion issues UM2+

    I have been having nothing but trouble with my UM2+ recently. First, 9 times out of 10 the extruder will grind the filament when I change materials. I have to pull on the filament when its reversing to change materials (and then cut off the part that it started to grind away). Second, I am having what I can only surmise is under extrusion. The sides of the model sometimes look like this: This one is more pronounced (its not the common case) I also end up with weak infill and walls that do not touch (almost always). The end result are ugly prints that are very weak and brittle. Clearly the extruder is not up to the task of pushing the filament through the system (in either direction!). There are only a few things I could imagine would cause this: 1. The extruder is broken. (I have taken it apart and cleaned it many times, it looks to be in perfect working order) 2. The Bowden tube is causing a jam of some sort. (I can easily slide filament through the Bowden tube, with no effort, when I remove it from the machine. It is also a 3rd party "slick" Bowden tube.) 3. The PTFE coupler has some material in a "cold zone" that is making it more difficult to push the filament through. (I have replaced the PTFE coupler a few times because this seems to be the go-to solution to a problem like this, but I would think that ~100 hours of print time at 210c on a TFN coupler from the gr5store would not damage the coupler.) 4. The Nozzle is clogged. (The Nozzle is clean, I have done atomic pulls and I can hold it up to the light and see that its empty and the hole is free of obstructions) 5. The filament has gone bad. (I have tried many different filaments, new and old, from different manufacturers, and this problem persists. Also I try the same filament on my UM3 and it works perfectly.) 6. The Heater isn't heating it up to the temperature that the thermistor says it is so its trying to push filament out at too low of a temperature. (Not sure how to test this one without specialized equipment. I have manually set the temperature to 15c more than I normally print at, and while it helps just a little bit, its not enough to make a difference.) I did have a situation awhile back when trying to use a Magigoo sample. Nothing stuck to it and I ended up with a huge glob of melted filament stuck in every place it possible could be stuck in on the hot end. I cleaned this up as well as humanly possible, but there was filament everywhere, even in the holes in the Olsen block where the heater and thermistor go. Does anyone have any ideas? If it is the PTFE coupler again, why do they seem to go bad so often? What could cause this?
  14. I have a new UM3, and for the life of me, I cannot get a good print out of it. This is a new UM3, with a fresh/new install of Ultimaker Cura 3.x, using a default UM3 profile (except I changed the 'Wall Line Count' to 6), using Ultimaker PLA filament with an AA 0.4 mm core. I tried printing a part to this spool holder (multiple times) and I always get the same results. The ugly marks on that are where Cura has oozed filament out onto the build plate and then the next layer squishes them into the part. Here are some more: And on the other side: Some of that last image might be z-scaring, but most of the lines clearly show a piece of filament embedded into the part. To be clear, the oozing is the only issue its having (but its a big one). Every other aspect of the print seems to be working as desired. I cannot be the only one running into this issue. I had a UM2+ hooked up to a different computer, running a different version of Cura, slicing different models, and I was getting the same oozing results (I made a topic on this forum about it) and the only way I "solved" that was to just use S3D, which didn't suffer from this issue. S3D is not an option with the UM3, so I need to actually solve this so the UM3 doesn't end up being a paperweight. Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations/etc...?
  15. latreides

    UM3 software support?

    (Edit: The forum had an issue with the CSRF token when I submitted this, and then when I retried it submitted it to the wrong forum, I meant for this to be in the Software and Firmware General forum, but it somehow ended up here!) I am considering an upgrade to a UM3 from my UM2+. The hardware is a no brainer for me. The UM2+ is am amazing machine and the UM3 just looks like it adds to that. My worry is software. It is my understanding that Cura is the only slicer that is able to really use the UM3 with any sort of speed and reliability. Now I don't intend for this to turn in to a Cura rant topic, so I will just say that the print quality with Cura on my UM2+ leaves a lot to be desired so not being able to use other slicers (if this is still the case) would likely prevent me from buying a UM3. Does the UM3 work well with other slicers (like S3D?) or is it still just a situation where you can kind get it to mostly work, but this or that feature doesn't work as well. (To be clear, I don't care about the non essential functions, like NFC material detection, or wifi printing/in slicer camera view)

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