Bossler
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Posts posted by Bossler
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I've seen that the combination of UM ABS & UM PVA ist "experimental".
So, what tips can be given to start experimenting with this combination?
My experience so far is that with ABS & PVA it helps to increase temperature -
but maybe there are more factors to take into account?
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Hi kman,
despite the possible misplacing - which I would expect to be done by Cura anyway;-) -
this thing would be printed with just one nozzle anyway.
But I seem to be not able to tell Cura that it should "ignore" the second nozzle?
Can you give me a hint how to set Cura so it will use the build plate as much as possible with a "1 nozzle print"?
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So in preparing for the arrival of my UM3e I played around a bit with Cura (3.1/3.2).
And I was surprised that I could not slice this model:
This thing is 199.3x192.2x300 mm. So should fit a UM3e, right?
Can somebody explain the greyed out areas to me?
Why are they there and how can I use the full advertised build room?
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So just to end this thread - and assure all of you there are more to come from me...;-)
Got an offer today which was quite appealing so I thought to myself - let's give it a try.
Now I look forward for "yellow santa" to ring at my door tomorrow -
delivering an UM3e and some stuff to get me started with it;-)
Again, thank you all for your answers & thoughts!
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Okay, thanks a lot.
So I downed 3.2 and will try it in parallel to 3.1.
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Will try that, thank you, kcel.
What is important - you need to unload directly after you did the preload so it's still "fresh and hot".
Like in real life - sometimes the timing is important;-)
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kmanstudios -
as per my experience (again, not with the UM3 but the R3D N2) extruding a little bit of filament before unloading does prevent clogging issues quite well, too.
After I started to follow that procedure, I never had to unclog a nozzle again.
Might be something that Ultimaker would want to look closer at.
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On 22.1.2018 at 8:15 PM, gr5 said:
However if you want a 3dsolex core to show up as "AA 1.0" or "HC 1.0" and want to create profiles to auto load your settings - I can help you with that. I already have software that does most of the work to do that. You could just make a small change and it will create all the profiles for an alternate UM3 core in seconds.
As I am already considering the 3DSolex cores - if and when I finally get the UM3e - I'd be interested in learning more about the sw you mentioned.
Is that some self-made tool?
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sounds interesting!
Especially the color variations - something you can't do with Polywood.
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Hi there!
The title actually is my question -
does one have to expect any problems when installing more than one version of Cura on the same Mac?
Would like to try out Cura 3.2 and don't like to use a Windows PC for that:-)))
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sorry, double post...
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I'd be interested to learn how the Laywood works.
Is it abrasive?
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Hi Geert,
the break away support may works, as per what I have read so far.
It's definitely on my shopping card & I'll give it a try.
Guess I just go for the polybox - even if yes, one could build something cheaper from food boxes etc.
It is quite compact and seems to be a simple construction.
Which is good - since complex constructions tend to behave complex;-)
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Well, I initially planned to print Spannerheads-Boxes (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644).
But after slicing all needed parts & calculating I recognized one box will be >60hrs in print time in total
plus required about 500gr of material... Adding that up and doing a "real cost" calculation they'd be way more
expensive than the polymaker box.Back to support material.
I still need to find a good support material that works with ABS.
I've seen that UM PVA & UM ABS is "experimental". BVOH did not really work well with ABS, too.
Do you have something working well with ABS?
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Okay, understood.
So you guys do not encounter any problems with clogged nozzles when loading filament a while after unloading?
Regarding wood - I have worked with Polymaker Polywood.
Despite heavy stringing and medium adhesion it works quite well and does not damage the nozzle.
The prints do look like made of cardboard.
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Well, I just can compare BVOH with a "no name" PVA.
The later was terrible to print, it did not really stick well to any build surface (incl. BuildTak) and the bonding even to PLA was weak as well.
Actually I do have the Polymaker Polybox on my list as well.
I was thinking of building such thing myself but when looking at the BOM
that would just be some building fun added but not necessarily cheaper.
Plus one could leave the Filament in it over night - especially nice for prints with PVA.
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Thanks for your answers!
My experience is that when you first extrude some material and then unload it,
you are way less prone to get remains of the filament left in the nozzle.So I was curious to understand whether there is a step built in into the unload-process in the UM3.
On the Raise3D N2 there is a "preload" function in the Unload-menu that lets you do exactly this.
When I started using the N2 I did ignore that button so I encountered a clogged nozzle from time to time.
Following the procedure preload-unload solved that, I never had that problem again.
Regarding choosing material to be loaded:
So there has to be a profile for a material to be able to load it, right?
I know one can create new profiles in Cura - are those downloaded to the UM3 then?
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Uh, that's not an encouraging read for someone who just considers to buy an Ultimaker 3 Extended...
Really? Unreliable Power-Supply?
On a ~4,5k€ machine?
Is it really true that customers are nothing but getting ripped off these days?
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Well,
I tried Cura as well as IdeaMaker yet.
IdeaMaker takes ~3 seconds to be up and running.
Cura 3.1 takes ~16 seconds to load - both on a Mac BookPro Retina Mid 2015 (2-5GHz i7 w. 16GB RAM).
EDIT: And I do not see a difference in load time whether I have sliced some big parts or not before quitting Cura the last time.
So I'd say yes, Cura is a slow loading application but one can live with it ;-)
EDIT: What I am more concerned about is the performance when previewing in layer view...
Quite unusable, especially when having bigger parts...
Curious how well the new version will behave.
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I was curious to understand the operation of the Ultimaker 3 so I did some reading, even in the manual.
What I wonder is the procedure of changing filament.
I am used to the following procedure:
- preheat the hot end to the extrusion temperature of the filament used (e.g. 205°C for PLA)
- do some "preloading" = extruding a bit of material
- unload the filament
This procedure has proven to be very effective and to prevent clogging of the nozzle (by remains of the old filament)
I seem to not find an easy way to follow this procedure with the UM3?
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For sure I could do that, Brulti.
Maybe I'll try to - but it would be quite a loss, anyway.
Still comparing options.
There are a lot of 3D-Printers around.
But it looks like none of them is without drawbacks.
So I try to find the "least worse compromise";-)
And to be honest - at the very moment I am strongly considering buying a bunch of parts and building my own printer.
Which would give me one big advantage - I know who's to blame when it does not work...
While I must admit that the Ultimaker 3 does look promising.
Oh, options, oh options ....
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As I seem to be "converting" from Raise3D N2 to Ultimaker 3e I am curious whether I'd be able to
continue using the Raise3D-slicer "Idea Maker" with the UM3e?
Anybody here did that already and can supply the needed settings for IdeaMaker & the UM3e?
As there is a dialog to add a "custom" printer in IdeaMaker, it should be possible.
Only thing left would be the start- and end-code for the UM3 - since the Raise3D-code in that areas is sort of crap, I think...
Unfortunately one can only edit that code in a particular material-configuration...
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Hi there!
I did love Verbatim's BVOH with my former printer but did not find any usefull reports about it's usage in the UM3 yet.
Anybody tried BVOH in the Ultimaker 3 (extended) and can report how it works?
The major advantage I see compared to plain PVA is that it dissolves much quicker than PVA.
Plus it is/was easier to print than the PVA I tried (which was not Ultimaker PVA, I have to admitt).
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Hi Sander,
yes, certainly I will start with 2,85mm.
Only if it would be something easy (and cheap) to do I would consider using a 1,75mm conversion -
just to get rid of all that filament I still have around here;-)
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UM ABS & UM PVA?
in Materials & profiles
Posted
Well, breakaway-support is "in delivery" and I'll try it.
Reg. the idea you described:
so you include the faux support in your design, right?
Reg. why ABS:
The part in question is a handle for a lid of a pan.
So it will be exposed to higher temps and the dishwasher as well.
Also I like the ease of polishing ABS with acetone;-)
There are quite some areas where this part needs support.
Especially the underside (which has a concavity) is hard to free from non-solvable support.