CXCimager
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Posts posted by CXCimager
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I'm finding this interesting. On my UM3, the auto leveling fails regularly. On the UMS5, I have not seen it fail yet. I've been running this almost non stop since I got it, running 4 to 5 day long prints.
My wifi is odd (secured in an odd manner), so I run exclusively off the USB port.
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1 hour ago, kmanstudios said:
I recycle my PVA into a slurry....then add alcohol to cut the surface tension. It will lay down with a soft brush and put a thin, even layer down.
This will not work with high warping filaments, but holds the TPLA like a charm.
As for the Pillars of creation...I am very surprised that there is not some sort of volumetric data to access.
Where do you teach?
I have heard of the slurry method, but I haven't tried it.
I work at the Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory. We go to many public education nights and local STEM events.
I am focused on X-ray data from the Chandra X-ray Observatory.
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3 minutes ago, Xalara said:
One tip for warping in the bottom layers on an Ultimaker. To get rid of that warping set the build plate temperature to 30C, then set the "Initial Layer Build Plate Temperature" to 60C. Doing this will also require you to use tape or some other form of adhesion method. For whatever reason the default print bed temperature settings for Ultimaker PLA have major issues.
@SandervG this might be something you guys at UM might want to look into since I've run into it a lot when printing with UM PLA on my UM3. I've found a workaround, but admittedly using the UM adhesion tape is annoying, despite being effective.
Thanks! This was made on our UM2E+ and I had the build plate temp too high. And I forgot supports. This was one of my early ones.
I do still get warping, so I will keep an eye on that. We tend to use the glue stick method for initial adhesion.
Thanks for the advice! -
8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
That is cool!! Thank you for sharing! Just keep in mind that TPLA is tough, but it does have the same softening temp as regular PLA.
Next, you will be printing the "Pillars of Creation". ?
You mean this? ? Yes, but that's a more "solid" creation. We don't have a more detailed structure of this one. (this particular print got damaged, but it still works)
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8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
Technoluv knows no boundaries!!! ?
Astronomical objects...that sounds really, really cool. I am a science geek and love cosmology and such. I do hope to see your prints posted. They sound interesting. ?
I just pulled the PVA/PLA off the UM3 this morning. Next to it is the model with the supports removed.
This is a supernova remnant from SN1987A.
Files are here and available for public use!
http://chandra.harvard.edu/deadstar/sn1987a.html
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6 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
This will depend on layer size and materials of course. But, I can tell you that my S5 and I are getting married in two weeks.
It has talked to me about going to a bachelor party where other printers will not have climate tops on......it can be a touchy situation....?
All silliness aside, it has been performing with quite regular/consistent results and works wonders with the UM TPLA filament that I am using. The worst thing is those 18" failures.....you know, that distance between me and the keyboard. And, I am also doing monster prints with it too. Such a joy
My prints are of astronomical objects that contain fine filamentary structures. When they fail, they fail spectacularly and often after 10 hours. So far, the S5 is chugging along making a beautiful print. I've set up a file with a triple of this object that should take 5 days to print. I'm going out of town for work, so I'll ask someone to just check on it once a day. I am so happy with this so far.
I'm also using the TPLA that came with the printer. The object I am printing breaks easily, so I am hoping the TPLA holds up to the wear and tear of teenagers and middle school kids handling our stuff.
Unfortunately, I am already married and I think my husband might object to my love of the S5. -
On 7/24/2018 at 11:33 AM, kmanstudios said:
Have you checked with your reseller? They may be able to tell you how to do that. Also, if you search @fbrc8-erin's stuff, she has loads of things that are great to learn on.
@fbrc8-erin was indeed able to help me. I was able to rebuild one of my print heads and she was able to supply me with parts to rebuild the second one so I now have an extra printhead and I understand how they are built much better. Thanks for the tip!
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Just set up my S5 yesterday. I ran a quick test piece and I am now building a far more complex item with massive PVA supports.
First impressions:
- Easy loading of filament. So much nicer than the UM3 filament boxes.
- I love the automatic leveling. It seems so much smoother than the UM3 leveling
- Surprised at the lower speed of print. My UM3 settings (which I inherited from the last person who worked here) has it set to 70mm/s. The UMS5 defaults to 45mm/s. However, the slower printing will produce nicer prints, so... I'm willing to make that tradeoff.
- Haven't tried to get this on a network yet: The printers are moving into my office in 2 weeks and I will see if I can get it on the network instead of me running over with a USB stick every time. I'll see how that works
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I have the same problem and I realized it was a change to the glue I am using.
My question is how to fix the damn printhead? I don't want to buy a whole new print head, but the wires attached to the printhead door broke (the red/white that go to the printhead, not the ones that go to the front fan.)
How do I fix THAT?
Ultimaker S5 | impressions & opinions
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Yeah, since my prints are so freaking long, I am happy I don't run into this. I do clear the nozzles after each print and vacuum the plate and under everything.