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fbrc8-erin last won the day on February 3 2019

fbrc8-erin had the most liked content!

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About fbrc8-erin

  • Birthday 04/09/1988

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5
    Ultimaker 3 Extended
    Ultimaker 3
    Ultimaker 2 Extended +
    Ultimaker 2+
    Ultimaker 2 Extended
    Ultimaker 2
    Ultimaker 2 Go
    Ultimaker Original+
    Ultimaker Original
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  1. If removing the wifi board solves the boot issue, then you'll need a new wifi board if you want wifi back, but in the meantime everything but wifi would work.
  2. I would reach out to your reseller about exchanging that Print Core. It's not a common occurrence, and this should not be a problem with the printer, just the Print Core. Most likely when Print Cores are programmed there are probably 2 settings--pick AA, BB, or CC, and pick a size. Evidently someone hit the wrong size on the size option. If there's an issue with the Printhead PCB board, it wouldn't read the Print Core at all, it wouldn't give it a wrong size. If the printhead PCB was the issue, it would give a message that said the Print Core wasn't recognized.
  3. It's rare, but I've seen a pinched front fan cable (the black and white one) cause electrical interference with the active leveling. To test this unplug your front fan and run active leveling and see if it works. (Note: don't run your print this way; running prints without your front fan can make the filament swell in your Print Cores.)
  4. If you loosen 2 screws at opposite diagonals then you can rotate them totally freely.
  5. You can downgrade firmware if you have an older version saved on a USB stick.
  6. @ldaponte it's a tight fit, so you pretty much have to manhandle it out. You can wedge a screwdriver in there to try and get some extra leverage. Make sure the bed is all the way at the bottom before trying to remove the corner cover.
  7. The UM3 does not come with blue tape. It comes with a glue stick: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23099-unboxing
  8. Usually if it thinks the material has run out and you still have filament on the reel it's usually that your filament is ground down--either printing too fast or with a partially clogged nozzle. Is your filament that's inside the feeder chewed up/has a bite taken out of it?
  9. That looks awesome, @kmanstudios!
  10. It's a single LED strip set unless they've cut and soldered the wires. It's 3 sections of LEDs that (at least the OEM part) are one piece which plugs in at the board. The gel on the LEDs can discolor sometimes though which would make it more yellow.
  11. The motors should already be locked in place during the change process so the head shouldn't be moving. Is it possible the glass is shifting/being touched when you go to wipe the head?
  12. Ah, I'm not familiar with that printer. If it was a UM3 I would have said it might be traveling to do the lift switch mechanism.
  13. The printhead should move to the front middle during material change in the middle of a print and the motors lock in place. Normally if I've got a shift on the print after material change during print it's usually that the build plate got knocked slightly rather than the printhead.
  14. That matches my view of Cura for the UM2X+ and when I look at the printer itself. You lose print space on the right hand side because the nozzle isn't centered on the fan shroud (it's on the left)--you lose a lot more space on the right edge of the bed. 223 by 223 is also dead on to the advertised specs: https://ultimaker.com/3d-printers/ultimaker-2-plus
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