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fbrc8-erin

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About fbrc8-erin

  • Birthday 04/09/1988

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  • Field of Work
    Manufacturing
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5
    Ultimaker 3 Extended
    Ultimaker 3
    Ultimaker 2 Extended +
    Ultimaker 2+
    Ultimaker 2 Extended
    Ultimaker 2
    Ultimaker 2 Go
    Ultimaker Original+
    Ultimaker Original
    Other
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  1. Are you printing with one material or two? Build plate temperature is a global setting; even if you've set 1 material to 0 degrees, if material 2 is set to 70 degrees it will default to the higher temperature since it's a shared setting.
  2. It looks like you're going to need to re-image the Olimex board. There are instructions online here: I'd recommend reaching out to your reseller for help. Did this happen after updating the firmware?
  3. UM2 should be able to handle CPE/Copolyester from Ultimaker. If you're running older firmware, it will only list ABS and PLA though, so if you don't see CPE in the material options, you'll want to update the firmware.
  4. Contact your reseller. You're going to need to re-image the Olimex board from a microSD card.
  5. Does the printer sit flat on flat surfaces? I do see what you're talking about in the photo with the sliding blocks in the correct position, but unless there's major damage to the frame of the printer, I think the issue is more likely the bed isn't sitting straight than that the printhead isn't. Maybe at some point the previous own dropped something heavy on the bed?
  6. The sliding blocks absolutely need to be straight up and down in the printhead shafts. Loosen the printhead shaft from both ends of the sliding block at the same time, get the first one perpendicular, and then you can manage the second one.
  7. I've had PVA get brittle when left exposed in a heated office over a winter where we were running the heat a lot. The PVA got brittle (over the course of about 6 months sitting exposed), and it broke into multiple pieces in the tube. So essentially if you dry it too much...it gets brittle instead of flexible like it does when humidity gets into it.
  8. Beeping noises on retraction are pretty normal. Can you share a video?
  9. The rods are press fit into the black blocks--tilt the black blocks and you can slide the rods out of the printhead. 🙂 I've got another video for that:
  10. Press on the clip with a screwdriver to get it to release. It's hard to see it on video from inside the printer. Here's a close up with the parts removed for clarity. It's a UM3 board in video, but the only difference is that it's on the back of the UMS5 board, but the front of the UM3 board. Just use your screwdriver to apply pressure at the top there to get it to release.
  11. The black and white wires go to the fan in the front plastic bracket.
  12. Try this fix for the fan bracket issue. It's soft metal; if it gets bent out of 90 it doesn't close well; you should be able to bend it back to 90 degrees with a little force.
  13. I wouldn't use 1.75 with a UM3 or a UMS5. It's too narrow for the bowden tube and you'll encounter extra resistance because it won't flow through smoothly. Feeder also won't grip it real well, and the filament could swell in the heater block/nozzle because the diameter is wrong. You might be able to force it to work...but I don't think it would work very well.
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