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fbrc8-erin

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About fbrc8-erin

  • Birthday 04/09/1988

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  • Field of Work
    Manufacturing
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3
    Ultimaker 3 Extended
    Ultimaker 2
    Ultimaker 2Go
    Ultimaker 2 Extended
    Ultimaker 2+
    Ultimaker 2 Extended+
    Ultimaker Original+
    Ultimaker Original
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  1. fbrc8-erin

    3d print offset in Y-axis direction

    It sounds like we're both describing the same problem with different terms. This definitely looks like a "hard shift"/"missed steps" which different from "slanting/tilted" prints which are usually the result of a loose pulley set screw. A loose pulley would give you a gradual tilt rather than a hard shift. You can play with the travel speed, which is usually the highest speed since it's not tied to extrusion. I would try lowering it. The fact that you're only see the issue in one axis makes it more likely that it's hardware related rather than settings related. Definitely try lubricating the axes and check by feel to see if the Y axis is harder to move than the X. I would recommend updating the firmware and Cura versions. I recently worked on a printer that was still running it's original 2014 firmware...there have been a ton of changes since then.
  2. fbrc8-erin

    BB 0.4 Nozzle clogged printing PVA

    Thanks @Dim3nsioneer. Bookmarked the page to add comments later.
  3. fbrc8-erin

    underextrusion multiple models ?

    I'd go ahead and change the coupler. Better safe than sorry, and it does look like it's got wear on it, even without heat discoloration.
  4. fbrc8-erin

    BB 0.4 Nozzle clogged printing PVA

    I would LOVE to see PVA brim as the default when printing PLA/PVA. Please?
  5. fbrc8-erin

    underextrusion multiple models ?

    Can you share a picture of it? Just because it doesn't look burnt doesn't mean it's not worn out. The more subtle wear and tear signs are: * It's not round anymore * The opening at the bottom is wider than it used to be * Scraggly edges/lips that will catch the filament. How many print hours are on your printer? Maintenance --> Advanced --> Runtime Stats.
  6. fbrc8-erin

    BB 0.4 Nozzle clogged printing PVA

    I use most of the Cura PVA settings on default--if you're not using 3.3.1, I do recommend updating because I think it's pretty dialed in. Things I do usually change: * PVA brim instead of PLA brim--if you can have your PVA printing directly to glass/PVA it will be sturdier than trying to print it on top of PLA * Horizontal Support Expansion--default is 3mm, but I usually like to look at the print in Layer view and see where the supports fall. If I can make the supports connect to each other/be more sturdy by increasing the horizontal expansion a little, I go ahead and do it. * Turn on Prime Tower--some of the earlier versions of Cura, the PLA/PVA adhesion on the prime tower was not as good as it could have been. However, 3.3.1 I haven't had any issues with the PLA/PVA prime towers. * Print PVA slow. I think 35mm/s sounds pretty good.
  7. fbrc8-erin

    UM3ext can't start a print....

    ER15 is a heater error; if the printer can't increase the temperature by X number of degrees in Y seconds (or maintain X temperature across Y seconds) it will present a heater error. Because the printhead is covered in filament, that filament is absorbing the heat that your printer is trying to pump into the brass, so it seems like it can't get to temperature because it's trying to heat too much material. Alternately, it's possible your heater wire is damaged, which would also cause the error. Regarding the bed screws falling out...that was probably the effect, not the cause of the issue. Was your active leveling on? If your active leveling is on and you active leveled before the print active leveling will only work if the springs and screws are already pretty tight, which makes them unlikely to fall out. However, if your print comes off the bed and goes into your printhead like it looks happened in your case, the hanging down part can hit the bed enough to make the screws loosen and fall out if unattended for a long time.
  8. fbrc8-erin

    underextrusion multiple models ?

    Nylon tends to be a bit rough on your TFM coupler. How many print hours since the last time you changed it out?
  9. fbrc8-erin

    3d print offset in Y-axis direction

    Hi, Bill, To confirm, you're seeing a hard shift like this picture below? This is a result of missed steps. If the printhead encounters resistance trying to move, the X (or Y) motor will miss steps/lose count and you'll see a shift--the printer counts all its steps based on the home position before printing. Normally if it happens once, I'd go ahead and lubricate your X and Y axes. You may also want to check your pulley and sliding block alignment. Also, when moving the printhead by hand, feel if one motor is giving you more resistance than the other one. If everything is lubricated, aligned, and your printhead doesn't feel hard to move by hand, it may be a one time glitch and usually doesn't come back. If you start seeing it across multiple prints after checking all of those things, then there may be a bigger issue at play.
  10. fbrc8-erin

    BB 0.4 Nozzle clogged printing PVA

    I would store open PVA in a bag or plastic container with silica packs. It's the best way to keep the moisture out. Generally if you can tie a knot in the PVA, you're risking the PVA tying itself in a knot around your feeder. (This photo is from a particularly bad incident.) I keep meaning to make a video showing good PVA and both ways PVA can go bad. Do you have PLA? I generally find bending good PVA feels like bending PLA--you can break it when you bend it, but it doesn't just snap unexpectedly. I wouldn't recommend a file, but if you have a thin needle, you can try inserting that from the underside of the print core when it's hot. It might break up burnt material. Sometimes the hot and cold pulls have to be repeated multiple times to get it clear. The needle can help.
  11. fbrc8-erin

    Why is z height off by so much

    Is your active leveling on? Is the wrong height the same all the way across the print? Active leveling makes corrections through the first 20mm of Z-height (if I remember correctly), so if your bed isn't manually leveled well enough, you could end up with it the height being wrong on one end or the other.
  12. fbrc8-erin

    Pineapple Lamp body

    Nice! Love the color too.
  13. fbrc8-erin

    BB 0.4 Nozzle clogged printing PVA

    How long has your PVA been open? How have you been storing it? If you bend it how does it feel? There's two ways it can go bad--super flexible (humidity has gotten into it), or super brittle (too much heat). Have you tried a print core cleaning? There's been very few Print Cores that have ever come my way that I haven't been able to get clean with Ultimaker Cleaning filament, Nylon, or PC. With clean cores and good PVA it should print reliably. Generally the only reason I have PVA fails is usually if I know I'm using marginal PVA that's been left out, but I decide to risk it anyway. UM2+ nozzles can be changed out. I absolutely do not recommend changing out the nozzle on your UM3 Print Core; they're fragile and not really meant to be disassembled without the right tools, though I know some people here have done it. Disassembling it puts a fairly significant risk of breaking the double heat break, because it's fragile (so that the Teflon piece can stay cool).
  14. fbrc8-erin

    Ultimaker 2 extended plus for sale

    With only 89 print hours on it, unless they've been printing in Carbon Fiber, the nozzle should still be perfect.
  15. fbrc8-erin

    Consistent Feeder Grinding Issues

    I agree with @gr5 on this one. If you want to print at that sort of volume per second with PLA and a .4 nozzle, you have to increase the temperature. As a result, overhangs won't look as good probably because of the cooling. Several years ago, @illuminarti wrote an extrusion test for the UM2 that lets you take the extrusion up to 10 cubic mm/s as a means of pinpointing the level of under-extrusion you're seeing. It takes you from 3 cubic mm to 10. However, you can only successfully get it printing at the upper levels if you're printing at 230 C, which is what we built into the gcode for that test. Increase your temperature, increase the nozzle size, or decrease the speed.
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