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fbrc8-erin last won the day on May 22

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  1. Looking at the photo...that's a lot of glue and it doesn't look very even. My first recommendation (aside from re-leveling the bed as has been mentioned) would be to take a wet paper towel to your bed. You do want to use glue--but only use a thin layer so there's no clumps. I like to put a few swipes with the glue stick and then use a wet paper towel to thin it out to a thin almost invisible layer. If they're clumps, your filament is going to catch on it.
  2. It might just be a heat sink issues, but it's also possible hardware damage, so you're definitely safer using an external heat source. Good luck!
  3. Do you have a heat gun or soldering iron you can apply to the plastic? At best, all the filament around your printhead is acting as a heat sink and and causing the error; at worst your heater and/or temperature sensor may be damaged (I'm not familiar with the Tevo) and the error is there to make sure you don't have thermal runaway. Best bet is to apply an external heat source and pull material away with pliers or similar.
  4. It's not possible to turn off the bed leveling on the S3; the UM3/UM3X can turn it off, but not the S5 or S3. Is your lifting switch functioning properly? If it's missing the lift switch and the wrong Print Core is down you could get active leveling errors. What about the red and white cable inside the printhead, seated in the metal bracket at the bottom of the printhead? If those cables are unseated your active leveling will fail.
  5. I confirmed with a couple colleagues just to be sure, but it doesn't look like that should be any part of an S5, so your printer should be all right.
  6. That is definitely not any part of your printhead. Is it possible it's from some other equipment nearby?
  7. What model machine do you have? I don't recognize that part at all.
  8. It should definitely be doable. With the S5, that back piece of plastic lifts straight up on off instead of backwards as in my video.
  9. The process is definitely very similar between the two models. The biggest difference is going to be that your printhead cable clips into the back of your PCB on the S5/S3, but on the front of the PCB on the UM3/UM3X. Also, depending on the age of your UM3/UM3X, the back piece of the cover may lift off backwards instead of up as it does on the S5/S3/later UM3/UM3X.
  10. If your fans buzz briefly, then your main electronics board is getting power. That means the issue is most likely at the wifi board or Olimex. Since you've already tried booting up without the wifi board, my best guess would be that the Olimex board is failing. You could try re-imaging it, but given that it's not stuck on the Ultimaker logo screen at this point, I'm more inclined to think it's a hardware issue rather than a firmware one.
  11. The procedure should definitely also work on your UM2. The sliding block set up is essentially the same on all the UM2/UM3/S series machines, just with different belt lengths.
  12. It's a great idea to want to help. There are some 3D printing related organizations out there geared towards helping children using 3D printing. I haven't worked firsthand with either of these (other people on the forum may have firsthand knowledge), but a couple of organizations for making prosthetic arms for kids in need come to mind. These are two I've heard of Enable and Limbitless Solutions.
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