PaulK
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Posts posted by PaulK
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In my experience, Nylon, ABS and PETG all provide much better long term performance.
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On 10/2/2021 at 8:26 PM, PPTBat said:
@PaulK - thank you for the update. I appreciate it, now I can stop pulling out my hair thinking I screwed something up.
In the end, I ended up ... opening cura 4.10, which would let me access the market place. It told me I needed some updates. I took the updates. I then opened 4.11, which then suddenly woke up and offered to sync my account, at which point I could access the market place again. No idea if it was fluke, or a bug, or what, but that worked. I can't reproduce so it might be total BS 🙂
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The market place, from cura, appears to be down. It could be related to the Let's Encrypt problems. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a way to download from the web marketplace (which works) and manually load into Cura (I'm trying to do a material) so we appear to be SOL until they fix it. It would be nice just to recognize it 🙂
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5 hours ago, gr5 said:
The cause of a head flood is sometimes that the door pops open during a print but this is very rare.
I actually had a problem with that for a while, and tweaked a thing or two to make things align a bit better and it was ok. I was tempted for a time to replace the magnets with stronger ones.
For sure, this time, the print came loose. I use dimafix normally for ABS and got lazy and didn't re-apply in time, and printed the same thing over a few times in the same spot, doh. So it is 100% my fault that it failed, though I wish the machine had a little better detection for that (actually just detecting the cover popping open would be a big help)Yah, it was over an hour of work. The head survived, the core *almost* survived; it is still working, but the insulation on the thermistor got pulled back and is damaged, and there is a danger that it could short if things went astray again. Now, the UM is pretty smart about noticing failed thermistors, so it probably could be used, but I think I'll just keep it for spare parts. Its a bit of a shame, a new thermistor (or some kind of repair to the insulation that was heat resistant) would make it fully functional and safe (vrs just functional)
I've had a couple of lesser incidents before with PLA and it was, indeed, much more pleasant.
Many thanks to all for all the help. Thank god for hot air rework stations 🙂 -
Print went quite badly. I discovered it with the banging sound the printer was making....
So, I end up with 2 problems to correct.Problem 1:
The print core is surround by ABS. On a simpler printer I've just pulled out the hot air re-work and worked it off, but here there is a lot more heat sensitive components. How do I go about not destroying the head and, if I'm really lucky, even recovering the core? I've had one less then this previously and recovered the core, but this is going to be a big effort to even get the core out.
Problem #2: Re-aligning one of the rail thingies.
I know how to put these in/remove, *however* the carriers for these are now clearly mis-aligned. How do I re-square this when I put it back in?
Many thanks in advance!
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7 hours ago, uncle_bob said:
Hi
Did this get fixed? If so any feedback on what the issue was?
Bob
It got fixed by sending the printer in for warranty repair. The power supply needed replaced.
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Maye I missed the setting somewhere to enable this, but when I use dual extrusion with a prime tower (main material extruder 1, PVA extruder 2) it isn't retracting when it moves to the prime tower for extruder 1, leaving a whole bunch of strings pointing in the direction of the tower. In this case CC core printing GF30 PA6 for extruder 1, but likely not relevant.
Added: Correction. Looking at the preview, it might be when it *enters* the print from the prime tower. Like, it starts extruding early on the way in? Kind of odd, and I'm not sure how that could result in the strings hanging in mid air. I'm now confuse even more 🙂 The end result is a lot of strings pointing direction at the prime tower in any case.
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I should add that my ambients run 16-21 (depending on the time of year), and clearly some people will have much higher and that will definitely make a pretty big difference.
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I've been running my S5 with an acrylic "hat" pretty much since I got it. When not printing PLA, I leave the doors closed (I open them for PLA). Now, my hat is not as closed up as the air manager; notably, it has an open section where the Bowden tubes enter, so will not hold heat as well as the air manager, but the chamber temperate has never gotten even close to 50, even with 100C build plate. So' I'd imagine the risk of over temp is relatively low, though I may be underestimating the additional sealing of the air manager.
BTW, here I forgot to open the doors for PLA; you can clearly see the line where I remembered to open them 🙂 (the overhang is much rougher with the door closed). So, although I think the air manager should be closed loop control, clearly the auto-exhaust for pla would help me 🙂
My preferred algorithm would be: Exhaust for PLA. Run at absolute minimum for everything else (though I'm not sure about CPE, haven't printed enough of it in long prints to know how warm the chamber has to get before the disadvantages outweigh the advantages)
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4 hours ago, SandervG said:
It is open loop, but it doesn't just guess an air speed. It measures ambient temperature, and it retrieves build plate temperature and material specific values from Cura. How would it prioritize air movement over temperature? By moving the air you control the temperature too.
Well, if it assumes initial conditions (ambient temperature) will stay the same for the entire print (possibly days), i'd call that guessing 🙂 Seriously though, there is no way to even remotely nail the fan speed perfectly to hit the right temp over a very long print, how can this possibly get a remotely accurate chamber temperature over a long period without feedback?
The prioritizing air movement thing was going by statements regarding about ensuring particles are removed. For example, from the description of intended operation, I doubt the algorithm would leave the fan entirely off until a warm chamber temperature happened. In some sense, you can afford to start a little cool, because the bed is close to the print at the beginning, but I don't have confidence that the air manager will hit even the stated air temperatures over long periods, i.e. large prints, where warmer chambers have the most benefit (if you aren't printing PLA). I suspect I'll be canceling my order 😞 and have to spin something else (or keep the air manager, but don't plug it in instead plug it into my own controller...)
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5 hours ago, SandervG said:
Some more context; the desired fan speed is being calculated by a formula of different values. At the beginning of a print the Air manager measures the ambient temperature, it knows the set build plate temperature and which build volume temperature should be ideal for a specific material. Consequently it knows which fan speed is necessary.
I'd really like some more information here. This sounds like it is essentially open loop control? It does not continue to measure the chamber temperature and adjust as it goes?
I know that the primary state purpose is filtering the air but my primary purpose (and I'm willing to bet lots of others) is to keep dust out (the place the printer is located is sometimes very dusty) and still control the chamber temperature (currently I have o remember to keep the doors open when I print PLA, for example). My current "hat" is very busted up and I have an order in for the Air Manager in the hopes of a replacement, but I really want the chamber to warm up properly; if it is kinda just guessing at an airspeed, and prioritizes air movement over temperature, I'll likely need to buy another had and add my own fan to it (and maybe a small heater). I really wish I could interface to the printer and pick up settings so it wouldn't be a manual process, but alas, no information on how to do that.
tl;dr will air manager fan speed be open loop or closed loop for temperature?
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Ok, the last one was too verbose. tl;dr
I'm having some trouble with heat creep on the S5; it is reproducible in a particular print, and jams every time at (ballpark) the same layers. Cooling fan does spin and blow air. Filament is eSun ABS+ printing with standard ABS profile.
Suggestions?
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Ever since they fixed the flow sensor code, I've only gotten this warning when there was, in fact, and extrusion problem. At least a couple of times I've been all "oh you S5, you gone dumb again" but then it turned out that yah, a partial clog at least has happened. Make sure you check very carefully. Under the old firmware (a while back) I got false alerts a lot, especially with PVA or clear filament.
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Printer: S5, Cura 4.3.0, Generic "Normal" ABS profile
I've not printed much of this eSun ABS+, but have had some successful prints using generic ABS settings. However, with what I am trying to print right now at least twice the nozzle (AA 0.4) has clogged at roughly the same place. When I did a nozzle cleaning, the red went up further then I would expect; I strongly suspect it's a heat creep clog. The cooling fan is running and blows, it seems, about as much air as such a tiny fan can (UM: Use a bigger fan). Airways seem largely unobstructed. Picture attached. Note I have printed a single of these in this filament (and many others in other filaments) successfully, though I don't recall if it was troublesome.
From my reading, my best guess is the solution is to slow down, particularly the infill speed? However, infill speed is only 45 in the normal profile, not exactly zooming. Maybe this ABS carries heat better then normal? Fully clearing the clog takes quite a bit of time, so I'm hesitant to randomly try stuff, at least some clue would be nice 🙂 I did try printing 5 degree hotter, that was this result; of course, if it is heat creep, that would make it worse, not better. I don't want to print cooler, this is a mechanical part.
Any solutions or suggestions appreciated.
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You need to start hiring remote 🙂 I've got decades of experience but am in the wrong country (and cannot move...) and would so love to work on something I love.
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Yup, I've also complained about this, gotta squat down to read the buttons when they are that colour. If it was open source I just woulda done a pull request...
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I managed to bust up my hat for my S5 (it does need a hinged lid...). It needs replaced; it's hanging on, but it's gonna be a goner soon enough.
Of course, the air manager beckons. I'm more interested in the chamber temperature increase. So
1) How hot can the chamber get?
2) How effective is it?
3) Is the intent to have the printer wait until the chamber is up to temperature?
This is all assuming room temp ambient (20 C).
My other option is another hat and add some heating/venting (I forgot to open the doors *again* today for a PLA print ... automation would be nice here)
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So, how many sock puppet accounts would I need to get Space Mouse support 🙂
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Looks like this time, it won't be hours, it won't be ever (sans service). I wish they hadn't embedded the power supply. There are a lot of good things about embedding a power supply but serviceability isn't one of them.
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I'll be in contact with support (again) about this, but am wondering if anyone else has experienced it and possibly got it fixed. Sometimes when powered up my S5 will takes hours to actulaly power on. You hit the switch and absolutely nothing happens. Quite a few hours later (more then a couple, less then 12...) it will power up (switch was left on). When it does this, it doesn't make a peek; no fan spin, etc.
It is .. bizarre. Anyone else see this? Sending my printer in for service will be a huge hassle.
(if it would stay on WiFi I'd just never power cycle it... but it won't. Better then before, but still falls off occasionally)
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Is there an official, or even unofficial, maximum recommended chamber temperature for S5?
If not, does anyone have thoughts on it? I'd assume something below 65 or so C, as one would believe the steppers would be hating above that, but wonder just where that line is. I won't hold you to your ideas 🙂
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G28 X0 Y0
in addition to the G28 Z0 you have already. I dunno, I always put the X0 Y0 one before the Z0
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I've had this happen in 5.28 but also in previous versions. In all cases a reboot of the printer cleared it.
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I also use Simplify3D for my other printer. Some things are more accurate then I get with Cura+S5, but lots of things are less so, such as outer diameters. I'll also say that the profiles are very different between the two. I've driven the other printer using Cura and the outcome is fairly different (generally better quality, but slower, and I've not measured accuracy in that case)
UMS5 - Layers not alligned
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I don't think I've ever had a single leveling failure (i.e. it appeared to be anything other then perfect) with my S5. I am always careful to remove the little nub left on the bed from the first touchdown, though.
You have something that needs adjusting or fixing on your printer. Active leveling on the S5 is pretty bullet proof.