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PaulK last won the day on February 8

PaulK had the most liked content!

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    Ultimaker S5

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  1. PaulK

    Post your latest print!

    Ya know, suggesting that those with different findings then you must not care about quality is not the way to go about this.
  2. PaulK

    Post your latest print!

    I guess our experiences are different. I've never had a spool tangle and found, properly mounted, that a spool feeds extremely consistently, possibly excepting when you get very close to the hub on some smaller spools where the bend of the filament wants to fight everything. That would be the case no matter how you were containing your filament. Different things work for different people, probably due to different needs and setups.
  3. PaulK

    Post your latest print!

    I'm really surprised that works for you. If I take a length of 3mm filament off spool, it'll try to make its way across the room and catch up on anything. The filament has to be contained someway, how are you containing it?
  4. PaulK

    Post your latest print!

    Are you suggesting to print without spools? What would the alternative be? I've not noticed small tangles on spools which are carefully mounted. I've had some mounting systems on my other printer that gave me grief, but 1.75mm filament (which it uses) also seems a little more likely to do that.
  5. PaulK

    Post your latest print!

    The clamps are fully adjustable from basically none (allows insertion of the tube) to quite tight. The outer cap controls that. The spools run very smoothly, all unwinding resistance will completely depend on how much PTFE you use. The resistance is extremely low (dependent on how much PTFE you use) and very even. The spools don't hang loose on the rod (which is aluminum shower rod), they have an insert customized to the spool so that it runs evenly on the rod and the spools don't hang here and there. There are free turning spacers between the spools to ensure they don't interfere with each other.
  6. PaulK

    Post your latest print!

    Among many other things, I’ve been making dry boxes.. the meter was moved outside through the box in the close up. Each box with 4 reels takes about 38 printed parts plus some shower rod and screws/nuts and silica gel. I’m going to have 3 boxes of ready to go filament. Probably won’t store PLA in there The PTFE can go all the way to the extruder (swap out the short piece for a long one). Humidity in the box is running 17%. I’ll need to add a shelf on the back of the machine stand to hold it. This should make things more reliable without worrying about humidity. We will see how it all works out.
  7. I had this happen today. There was no filament out, though it could have been slipping or something; i'm not sure if the sensor is optical or a mechanical wheel. It happened 3 times on a print. I was printing PLA+PVA. The PVA is reasonably dry and seems to print OK. Cura Connect on the printer is not happy; I can no longer reliably connect to it, and when I can, it logs a lot of errors about not being able to get maintenance history and not being able to get status, though mostly I can't view the logs or the printer (this is all through the web page at the printer address). I can't verify if network is associated with, not enough data, but will say I'm getting at the same time as cura connect misbehaving.
  8. PaulK

    UM knocks off the prime tower

    My typical miniature print will be buried in support; printing a horse at very high quality requires serious support. But material switches still have to happen. Maybe I'll just try it.
  9. PaulK

    UM knocks off the prime tower

    I've been printing some miniatures with a 0.25 core. My last one knocked over the prime tower.... this is printed very "low and slow" to maximize detail. The default profile uses a prime tower. I notice that I think the default profile with a 0.4 nozzle doesn't (Cura 4 beta) seem to use one by default. Has anyone printed miniatures without a prime tower? (PVA is a god send for this application)
  10. PaulK

    Transparency tests on PET

    TGlase (a PETT) instructions for printing clear include turning the nozzle temp up until bubbles appear (and backing off slightly), so it seems to be a common thing for transparency.
  11. I found, with windows as the host, I could only get reliable connection via Cura by using a set IP (Preferences | Printers in the network settings). Windows+Cura could not reliably discover the printer otherwise. Of course, the DHCP settings can make it difficult to know the IP address beforehand. I solved it by reserving the IP in my DHCP server, but of course this is not available in all environments. In your setup your cheap router should allow this; once you get rid of it, you'll be in more trouble 🙂
  12. Wow, I had absolutely no idea that the two sides of glass were not the same. That is fascinating! I guess my "other" plate which has a chip out of it (CPE, I'm looking at you. I think it was you) should be best kept for use with adhesion sheets. I often print with a thin coat of PVA (ok, actually hairspray). Does this negate the difference? One would think so, but since I had no idea about the glass, now I doubt everything 🙂
  13. Yah it is very slow to move. If you get stuck this way again, flip the lever on the extruder, which will release tension on the filament, and push the filament to the hot end. You can do this while it is in the state of waiting to extrude. Close the lever again. It'll extrude shortly after. Best hint I got for feeding is to cut the filament at an angle. It makes feeding much easier. I find I want to see about 5 cm/2 " worth of filament in the tube when it prompts me to feed the filament. This minimizes the wait for the extrusion.
  14. PaulK

    Cura 4.0 beta not purging 1st color

    Well, the UM doesn't need to purge the head on color swap, so it is a different problem set. If I read it correctly, he is using a dual-in head with a single nozzle. That would mean it would require more then the math to change, but have different g-code then would be generated with a full dual head machine like the UM
  15. PaulK

    UMS5 Print Speeds (upper limits?)

    Innofil claims speeds of 120-150 for their Pro1 series, which they say is formulated for speed (and quality if you print slow). I've not tired it, but have a reel I'll bust open when my current reel of Tough PLA black runs out. It will be interesting to try the Pro1 at 120 or so with a 0.8 nozzle and see if you can keep the plastic flowing enough. It would be nice for certain fixtures that you are ok with some roughness and inaccuracy, but just want to bang out.

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