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PaulK

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PaulK last won the day on February 8

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  • Field of Work
    Engineering
  • Country
    CA
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. Well, if it assumes initial conditions (ambient temperature) will stay the same for the entire print (possibly days), i'd call that guessing 🙂 Seriously though, there is no way to even remotely nail the fan speed perfectly to hit the right temp over a very long print, how can this possibly get a remotely accurate chamber temperature over a long period without feedback? The prioritizing air movement thing was going by statements regarding about ensuring particles are removed. For example, from the description of intended operation, I doubt the algorithm would leave the fan entirely off until a warm chamber temperature happened. In some sense, you can afford to start a little cool, because the bed is close to the print at the beginning, but I don't have confidence that the air manager will hit even the stated air temperatures over long periods, i.e. large prints, where warmer chambers have the most benefit (if you aren't printing PLA). I suspect I'll be canceling my order 😞 and have to spin something else (or keep the air manager, but don't plug it in instead plug it into my own controller...)
  2. I'd really like some more information here. This sounds like it is essentially open loop control? It does not continue to measure the chamber temperature and adjust as it goes? I know that the primary state purpose is filtering the air but my primary purpose (and I'm willing to bet lots of others) is to keep dust out (the place the printer is located is sometimes very dusty) and still control the chamber temperature (currently I have o remember to keep the doors open when I print PLA, for example). My current "hat" is very busted up and I have an order in for the Air Manager in the hopes of a replacement, but I really want the chamber to warm up properly; if it is kinda just guessing at an airspeed, and prioritizes air movement over temperature, I'll likely need to buy another had and add my own fan to it (and maybe a small heater). I really wish I could interface to the printer and pick up settings so it wouldn't be a manual process, but alas, no information on how to do that. tl;dr will air manager fan speed be open loop or closed loop for temperature?
  3. Ok, the last one was too verbose. tl;dr I'm having some trouble with heat creep on the S5; it is reproducible in a particular print, and jams every time at (ballpark) the same layers. Cooling fan does spin and blow air. Filament is eSun ABS+ printing with standard ABS profile. Suggestions?
  4. Ever since they fixed the flow sensor code, I've only gotten this warning when there was, in fact, and extrusion problem. At least a couple of times I've been all "oh you S5, you gone dumb again" but then it turned out that yah, a partial clog at least has happened. Make sure you check very carefully. Under the old firmware (a while back) I got false alerts a lot, especially with PVA or clear filament.
  5. Printer: S5, Cura 4.3.0, Generic "Normal" ABS profile I've not printed much of this eSun ABS+, but have had some successful prints using generic ABS settings. However, with what I am trying to print right now at least twice the nozzle (AA 0.4) has clogged at roughly the same place. When I did a nozzle cleaning, the red went up further then I would expect; I strongly suspect it's a heat creep clog. The cooling fan is running and blows, it seems, about as much air as such a tiny fan can (UM: Use a bigger fan). Airways seem largely unobstructed. Picture attached. Note I have printed a single of these in this filament (and many others in other filaments) successfully, though I don't recall if it was troublesome. From my reading, my best guess is the solution is to slow down, particularly the infill speed? However, infill speed is only 45 in the normal profile, not exactly zooming. Maybe this ABS carries heat better then normal? Fully clearing the clog takes quite a bit of time, so I'm hesitant to randomly try stuff, at least some clue would be nice 🙂 I did try printing 5 degree hotter, that was this result; of course, if it is heat creep, that would make it worse, not better. I don't want to print cooler, this is a mechanical part. Any solutions or suggestions appreciated.
  6. You need to start hiring remote 🙂 I've got decades of experience but am in the wrong country (and cannot move...) and would so love to work on something I love.
  7. Yup, I've also complained about this, gotta squat down to read the buttons when they are that colour. If it was open source I just woulda done a pull request...
  8. I managed to bust up my hat for my S5 (it does need a hinged lid...). It needs replaced; it's hanging on, but it's gonna be a goner soon enough. Of course, the air manager beckons. I'm more interested in the chamber temperature increase. So 1) How hot can the chamber get? 2) How effective is it? 3) Is the intent to have the printer wait until the chamber is up to temperature? This is all assuming room temp ambient (20 C). My other option is another hat and add some heating/venting (I forgot to open the doors *again* today for a PLA print ... automation would be nice here)
  9. So, how many sock puppet accounts would I need to get Space Mouse support 🙂
  10. Looks like this time, it won't be hours, it won't be ever (sans service). I wish they hadn't embedded the power supply. There are a lot of good things about embedding a power supply but serviceability isn't one of them.
  11. I'll be in contact with support (again) about this, but am wondering if anyone else has experienced it and possibly got it fixed. Sometimes when powered up my S5 will takes hours to actulaly power on. You hit the switch and absolutely nothing happens. Quite a few hours later (more then a couple, less then 12...) it will power up (switch was left on). When it does this, it doesn't make a peek; no fan spin, etc. It is .. bizarre. Anyone else see this? Sending my printer in for service will be a huge hassle. (if it would stay on WiFi I'd just never power cycle it... but it won't. Better then before, but still falls off occasionally)
  12. Is there an official, or even unofficial, maximum recommended chamber temperature for S5? If not, does anyone have thoughts on it? I'd assume something below 65 or so C, as one would believe the steppers would be hating above that, but wonder just where that line is. I won't hold you to your ideas 🙂
  13. G28 X0 Y0 in addition to the G28 Z0 you have already. I dunno, I always put the X0 Y0 one before the Z0
  14. I've had this happen in 5.28 but also in previous versions. In all cases a reboot of the printer cleared it.
  15. I also use Simplify3D for my other printer. Some things are more accurate then I get with Cura+S5, but lots of things are less so, such as outer diameters. I'll also say that the profiles are very different between the two. I've driven the other printer using Cura and the outcome is fairly different (generally better quality, but slower, and I've not measured accuracy in that case)
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