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nubnubbud

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  1. yes, I'm actually in contact with Slic3r pursa edition devs because they reached out to me, though I'm having a bit of trouble implementing it because the code has almost no documentation, and my printer is having some quality control issues at the moment (it's an old cr-10s and can't hit its projected temps due to hotend and capacitor issues.) the file attached was my last attempt before these issues started, but I was able to make an optically clear part to within .1mm of the projected width. Because it's clear at over a centimeter thick, I also have reason to believe it has crystallized very well, and is extremely strong. because this gcode is edited by hand, it's extremely tedious, and the relative extrusion makes it less predictable, depending completely on the machine to know exactly how much to extrude.
  2. played with some manual gcode. yes, this works, at least somewhat. printed in PETG. the clouds are in the print, and are all the same shape, so it is either a retraction setting in the model, or due to the model's shape and settings. they are, however, not just uniform shapes, leasing me to believe taller prints may not suffer from it as much.
  3. "jerk" is an integral setting of gcode that slows down the print head before a sharp corner. without it, your machine would shake itself to death, or at least wobble and wiggle a lot more, affecting print quality. I believe it's a bit soft, and will slow less for a 90 degree turn than a 180, but don't quote me on that. the issue is, most people don't print at 100-500mm/s, meaning the jerk setting at its basic setting of 500, 5000 or something does almost nothing. turn it to 10 then print a test XYZ cube, and you'll probably hear it working its magic.
  4. for basic bargain bin PLA on my CR-10s, I get my quality through the roof by dialing down my jerk settings to 20-5mm/s, printing under 25mm/s at 200c. if you have supports, use interfaces. 3 walls, 100% flow rate, and .1mm layer height. this is not how to learn, though. it's just copying some numbers and not knowing why they work. you want the lowest temperature that gives you good adhesion without creating friction and knocking over prints. it's a bit tough on extruder motors, but prevents blobbing, stringing, boogering, and elephand's foot, as well as giving you better bridging, easier to remove supports, and nice overhangs. Low jerk prevents ghosting and shaking, and the base jerk is at 500mm/s/s, which basically disables it until your print head is moving a quarter of a meter per second. basically cut the jerk number in half, and that's the fastest speed at which it will attempt to make a hairpin turn. outer layer options. time saver settings are here. print at normal speeds on everything but the outermost layer. if it's not obvious, you don't need the inside to be pretty. also gyroid infill is really fast unless you have a lot of thin gaps in your model. if you have everything else dialed in, layer height is almost a non-issue, because your layers will be nearly invisible, and your detail is limited by your nozzle.I would not suggest printing at the same layer height as your nozzle is wide. it seems to do wonky stuff with adhesion and part strength unless you overextrude, at which point you might as well just use a larger nozzle.
  5. Earlier, I began printing in PETG, and my first prints got successively better, till little parts of the prints I made were clear enough for me to hold against a screen and see the details through it! but no more. I was printing little 1cm cubes, and I began noticing that the issue lies in extrusion...lines? Essentially, little bubbles between the extrusion lines were left behind, even after dialing in my settings to the best of my ability. I believe ironing may be the solution here, but therein lies the issue. Cura only supports ironing on exposed upper surfaces. I believe it should be an option, and not hard to add a little check box to "iron everything". it should come with a warning that it will slow down prints immensely, but after spending 3 hours on a 1cm cube in an attempt to get it a little clearer, I think the feature can stand on its own. I'm not sure it will make things clerar, but I'd say there's a decent chance, and some extra heating on the top of every layer may actually help strengthen prints by removing fracture points and ensuring better layer adhesion, in any case. another option would be the ability to list which layers should be ironed and a checkbox for whether to include the entire layer or just exposed faces. I know a few people that wanted to iron only a couple layers.
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