Jump to content

ssashton

Member
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • 3D printer
    Other 3D printer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ssashton's Achievements

2

Reputation

  1. In this model there are some small lines that link the two parts to help keep them stable. When I slice it, it makes the outside wall smaller. I don't know why this is happening. This is using the AnkerMake M5 profile. If I use a Ender 3 profile it does not happen. Any ideas? AM5_Port Bodies Main.3mf
  2. I want to have 2 walls in most of the model, except where the geometry modifier is I want only 1 wall. However, the behaviour I see is the number of walls listed in the modifier is 'added extra'. So if I globally set 2 walls and 1 wall in the modifier, I get 3 walls where the modifier overlaps. Am I doing this wrong? I get 1 wall extra, but I wanted ONLY 1 wall.
  3. Thanks for your answer. Unfortunately these settings do not resolve the issue. I find that although the first layer is good, the 2-4 solid layers are over-extruded / too much flow. I would like to make a feature request to have independent bottom and top flow. Here you can see the infill of solid bottom layers. If I adjust Top/Bottom flow down in Cura so the bottom layers are good, then the top is under-extruded. This is not resolved by adjusting the 1st layer.
  4. The above picture doesn't seem to have full details, so here it is again: Image Here
  5. Hi, I find that all of the bottom solid layers in my models have a bit of a bulge. This is not helped by the setting 'Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion' because it is all of the solid bottom layers, not only the first. If I reduce Top/Bottom flow it helps, but go too far and the top layer gets gaps in it while the bottom layers are still over-extruded. I do not believe my 1st layer is over-extruded, picture attached. Any idea how I can correct this, or can I request allowing flow for top and bottom to be adjusted independently?
  6. Thank you, that's a superb answer and seems to be 100% correct!
  7. Can anybody help me understand why the speed in the Gcode exceeds any of the speed settings I enter in the slicer? I've attached my profile and the Gcode. The settings have a maximum speed of 250mm/s which is F15000 However the Gcode goes to F17341 which is 289mm/s It seems related to multiple settings. At 0.2mm layer the speed does not exceed F1500 At 0.28mm layer it goes to F17341 Then changing seam settings from 'sharpest corner - smart hiding' to 'user set back - hiding', it goes up again. Now F17442 Simons Draft.curaprofile AM5_Fidget_Star_8-Point.gcode
  8. I found that if I play with rotating the model as well as trying a few 'Z Seam Position' options I was able to make it put the seam always on a sharp corner. Not a global solution but another tool in the box. I had always put rectangular objects parallel to the axis with the assumption it would print more perfectly square, but I might change that behaviour now!
  9. Hi, I don't seem to get the Z seam where I expect it. I printed this part with (IIRC): Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Seam Corner Preference: None Yet the seam on the back starts wondering to the side then goes back to the middle, then goes away for ages to the inside wall then comes back... no consistency. (Edit: Google Photos seems to have clearer images: https://photos.app.goo.gl/DpuhRyDTaXzMHnPU9 ) Back wall: Inside wall: I printed again with settings (IIRC): Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Seam Corner Preference: Hide Seam Now it seems to be all over the place including the front of the object! Back Wall: Front Wall: I'd appreciate some help both with how to set the Z seam so it is consistently at the back centre of the model and also how to spot the Z seam position in the preview window. This is what I see for example and I don't recognise the seam location. Thank you!
  10. Thanks. I am only printing PLA 99% of the time which I find has a pretty wide temperature range to work with. Also I'm not actually changing the nozzle, just the line width to optimise the number of walls and avoid tiny infill moves. Do you guys think increasing Line Width above the physical nozzle size is going to increase back pressure in the nozzle and lead to more stringing and blobing? I'm using a boden setup which doesn't help.
  11. Hi, I've searched but am not actually clear about this. Does the Line Width setting in Cura effect the absolute flow? If I keep my nozzle setting at 0.4mm in printer settings but increase Line Width to 0.5mm, for example, I can clearly see line to line spacing getting wider in the preview. In this case will Cura automatically increase flow to actually achieve printed lines that are 0.5mm and merge together when printed? Or do I need to manually increase Flow percentage by a corresponding amount to achieve a printed line which is actually 0.5mm?
  12. I might have found the problem. Yesterday I got these strange rough prints. Today my CR10S Pro turned itself off in the middle of a print and wouldn't start again. I did a little bit of investigation and found the screen board was only getting 2.8V where the board was marked as 5V. The screen board is fed from the main board. When I unplugged the connector to the screen board the voltage on the connector went back up to 5V as it should be. This suggested a broken screen board and possibly a short circuit that made it draw too much power and cause the voltage to drop. I disconnected the screen board and tried to power it with 5V from an external supply. It drew a couple of amps which seems like a lot. I'd have expected a few hundred milliamps. Where there is power, there is also heat. I put some isopropyl alcohol on the PCB and connected power again. I could see the alcohol evaporate quickly in one location. There were come capacitors nearby so I tested their DC resistance (which should be in the kilo-ohms range). I found one larger ceramic capacitor that had a very low resistance of about 100 ohms. So I removed it. Going by the size and fact the PCB is only running at 5V this is probably in the range of 10uF - pretty large for a ceramic surface mount capacitor. I replaced it with a 15uF tantalum capacitor. Powered up the board from an external PSU and the current draw was far lower now. I connected back to the printer and it all came alive again! Yay! So moral of the story here is - Ceramic surface mount capacitors can fail short circuit (often due to flexing such as on this touchscreen). Also you can often times follow heat to find the cause of a broken circuit. I guess this excess current draw as the part was failing will have put the main board under stress and caused the strange results I was seeing. I'll let you know if the problem persists! I've added some photos of the fault in the album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/58e8DdeNTxTmpHfL6
  13. Thanks. I thought white was natural PLA so the easiest to print. I only printed at 80mm/s so not exactly fast. I guess I'll just try again and see what happens. Also I'll switch to black PLA.
×
×
  • Create New...