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ssashton's Achievements



  1. I found that if I play with rotating the model as well as trying a few 'Z Seam Position' options I was able to make it put the seam always on a sharp corner. Not a global solution but another tool in the box. I had always put rectangular objects parallel to the axis with the assumption it would print more perfectly square, but I might change that behaviour now!
  2. Hi, I don't seem to get the Z seam where I expect it. I printed this part with (IIRC): Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Seam Corner Preference: None Yet the seam on the back starts wondering to the side then goes back to the middle, then goes away for ages to the inside wall then comes back... no consistency. (Edit: Google Photos seems to have clearer images: https://photos.app.goo.gl/DpuhRyDTaXzMHnPU9 ) Back wall: Inside wall: I printed again with settings (IIRC): Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Seam Corner Preference: Hide Seam Now it seems to be all over the place including the front of the object! Back Wall: Front Wall: I'd appreciate some help both with how to set the Z seam so it is consistently at the back centre of the model and also how to spot the Z seam position in the preview window. This is what I see for example and I don't recognise the seam location. Thank you!
  3. Thanks. I am only printing PLA 99% of the time which I find has a pretty wide temperature range to work with. Also I'm not actually changing the nozzle, just the line width to optimise the number of walls and avoid tiny infill moves. Do you guys think increasing Line Width above the physical nozzle size is going to increase back pressure in the nozzle and lead to more stringing and blobing? I'm using a boden setup which doesn't help.
  4. Hi, I've searched but am not actually clear about this. Does the Line Width setting in Cura effect the absolute flow? If I keep my nozzle setting at 0.4mm in printer settings but increase Line Width to 0.5mm, for example, I can clearly see line to line spacing getting wider in the preview. In this case will Cura automatically increase flow to actually achieve printed lines that are 0.5mm and merge together when printed? Or do I need to manually increase Flow percentage by a corresponding amount to achieve a printed line which is actually 0.5mm?
  5. I might have found the problem. Yesterday I got these strange rough prints. Today my CR10S Pro turned itself off in the middle of a print and wouldn't start again. I did a little bit of investigation and found the screen board was only getting 2.8V where the board was marked as 5V. The screen board is fed from the main board. When I unplugged the connector to the screen board the voltage on the connector went back up to 5V as it should be. This suggested a broken screen board and possibly a short circuit that made it draw too much power and cause the voltage to drop. I disconnected the screen board and tried to power it with 5V from an external supply. It drew a couple of amps which seems like a lot. I'd have expected a few hundred milliamps. Where there is power, there is also heat. I put some isopropyl alcohol on the PCB and connected power again. I could see the alcohol evaporate quickly in one location. There were come capacitors nearby so I tested their DC resistance (which should be in the kilo-ohms range). I found one larger ceramic capacitor that had a very low resistance of about 100 ohms. So I removed it. Going by the size and fact the PCB is only running at 5V this is probably in the range of 10uF - pretty large for a ceramic surface mount capacitor. I replaced it with a 15uF tantalum capacitor. Powered up the board from an external PSU and the current draw was far lower now. I connected back to the printer and it all came alive again! Yay! So moral of the story here is - Ceramic surface mount capacitors can fail short circuit (often due to flexing such as on this touchscreen). Also you can often times follow heat to find the cause of a broken circuit. I guess this excess current draw as the part was failing will have put the main board under stress and caused the strange results I was seeing. I'll let you know if the problem persists! I've added some photos of the fault in the album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/58e8DdeNTxTmpHfL6
  6. Thanks. I thought white was natural PLA so the easiest to print. I only printed at 80mm/s so not exactly fast. I guess I'll just try again and see what happens. Also I'll switch to black PLA.
  7. I printed these little cups and I'm getting a strange result. Same Cura (4.0 Creawsome) settings I printed a single cup with a great result. I multiplied the object in Cura and printed 9 of them. I checked the print half way and there were little blobs around the perimeter. The weird thing is, it's only on the outside wall. The inside wall is smooth and so is the support material being generated. Weirder still, one object in the bottom left corner was all smooth as it should be. The top curved surface is also smooth, it's only a problem on the vertical wall section. More photos here https://photos.app.goo.gl/58e8DdeNTxTmpHfL6 Can this be hardware related? I'm not convinced because the support material is perfectly smooth and so is the bottom left object and the curved tops. Help and advice appreciated!
  8. That was great advice thank you! 4.8mm didn't do it, 4.9mm didn't do it, but 4.85mm did the trick nicely! Combined with disabling 'Fill gaps between walls' and adjusting concentric infill percentage I was able to get a really clean print with minimal z-hopping or jerking around on tiny infill. Adjusting line width is not ideal though in all cases, the wall in my item varies thickness so I was lucky to strike a setting that worked across the whole print I think. It would still be nice to have control over what a 'tiny gap' is, just like you can on the 'minimal infill area' setting.
  9. Hi, The 'Filter Out Tiny Gaps' feature is very useful and enabled by default I believe. Is possible to adjust what Cura considers a tiny gap? In the part below I would like to avoid printing these tiny tri-angle sections because they tend to turn in to a little blob and just wastes time z-hopping around.
  10. That makes sense now you point it out. Indeed it works that way if I have selected 'optimise wall printing order' - it prints the outside most shell directly after the brim. However, if I have not ticked the 'optimise wall printing order' setting (which I think is default unchecked?) it actually makes a travel move after the brim and goes to print the inner hole shells first. MechDesigner, I simply use the buildtak like print surface that came with the CR10S Pro. I've tried PEI sheet, masking tape, hairspray and glue stick but the build-tak stuff sticks the best by a large margin.
  11. Thanks for the replies. I'm using a Brim. However, I've just found that in Cura 4: Brim selected, Red shell is printed first, then Green walls. This is regardless of the 'outer before inner walls' setting. Raft, skirt or none selected, I get the Green walls first, then Red shell which is what I wanted. The 'outer before inner walls' setting now does have an affect too, and when selected it prints Red shell first like it keeps doing using the Brim method. Could this be a bug that the bed adhesion setting affects the wall printing order?
  12. Hi Everyone! I'm trying to print a PCB test jig which has a number of 1.75mm though-holes. Cura keeps wanting to print the (Red) small inside shell of the holes first which means they have minimal bed adhesion and half of them come off before the wall (Green) and solid infill (Yellow) bottom layer are filled in. Is there a way to print the (Green) walls of the holes first, then move to the smaller (Red) inside shell? Alternatively print the solid infill first before printing the walls and shell? I tried 'infill before walls' option but it doesn't seem to affect bottom solid layers.
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