Oliveros
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Posts posted by Oliveros
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I've been reading about people using carbon fiber PETG, PLA and Nylon and I'm just wondering what the big benefit is of having carbon fiber infused into the filament?
I understand it makes it stronger but how much stronger, anyone have experience with this?
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Very cool.
My Monoprice Ultimate 2 wouldn't print ninjaflex since I guess the filament just wrapped up inside the gear so I'll have to mod it if I want to be able to do TPU.
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Wow, that looks good.
What's the temp rating of TPU in general? Any good for hot water?
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Cool. So I guess it's possible to print gaskets.
So you printed the seal or gasket out of TPU correct?
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No problem.
Stick around here if you are new to 3D printing. I started about 2 months ago and being able to ask all the stupid questions rather than working them out makes all the difference.
I went through a lot of problems and I still get some but it's much better with the help of everyone on here.
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Z offset is the devils work.It's the offset or the distance between the nozzle and the bed.
Different materials like to be squished (Tight offset as in the nozzle is very close to the bed) and some don't so the nozzle is further away, we are talking in like 0.1 MM increments or even smaller when adjusting it but it can be the difference between prints sticking and floating around on the bed.
I've had off problems that by bringing the nozzle closer to the bed, it fixed it. Especially bed adhesion on glass, if the plastic is cooled before it hits the plate, it don't stick much. So by bringing it closer, it kind of squishes it a little bit which makes it much better
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Aw man, that was going to be my first guess but I wanted to get a better understanding first.
Either bed leveling or Z offset.
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I can't make heads or tails out of any of this.
What does" Look like shit" mean? Is it too thin? too thick? Underextruded?
What is the EXACT problem?
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There's another thread about this on a different section.
But why not just use both? There's times I do inches, when I fabricate out of metal, like bigger stuff.
Then when I'm modeling for 3D prints, I just model in metric, most objects if you are copying something will be able to be measured by a caliper, wall thicknesses, hole spacings, etc. all can be done in metric with a caliper, if you REALLY don't even want to look at metric numbers, then get a multi feature caliper with inches, fraction and MM and you can measure it all out in inches, then push the button and see it in MM and keep going.
I use both, it's easier and it just depends on the size of the object I'm working with,
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Sounds like a bad limit switch.
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I have printed Nylon 6 and Nylon 12 on my glass bed, no bed heat, no fan and my printer is enclosed.
Clean the bed with alcohol, no glue, no nothing.
It might warp as it goes along though, but for what I was doing, it didn't matter.
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I don't know about you guys.
But the bed on my printer is not much bigger than the maximum range of a caliper, I recently had something I had to copy and print a new one of and my caliper wasn't big enough to give it in MM so I tried measuring it in inches, converting, etc.
It ended up too short on one side. But that is the ONLY case I've ever had where I needed to 3D print something that big.
I agree with the idea of doing Metric, I grew up in Denmark so I learned Metric, then I came to the US and started doing Engineering and had to learn it all over again then I started 3D printing and modelling and then I had to re-learn Metric.
But having done both, I prefer Metric just for the reason that the numbers make more sense, if I'm measuring wall thickness of something or want to determine it, it's a lot easier to say, "Hmm, about 3 MM ought to do it" than to say "Hmm, about 0.11811" ought to do it"
I mean, come on, it's just ridiculous at that point, sure, you could say 0.1" you could, but I find it harder to think with. Much less clearances when printing bolts or nuts or threaded holes, or even just doing intricate detailed parts with very specific spacing, gears, etc.
That's just my take on it. I'm not advocating everyone does Metric but if you are going to 3D print something, I seriously doubt it needs to be much bigger than a caliper at most times, so buy the $20 one from Harbor freight which gives you fractions, MM and inches, that's what I use but instead of wearing out the unit measurement button, I just re-learned metric and now I use that when modeling for 3D prints.
Then I turn around and build something out of metal and I do inches, there's no reason you can't do both, for bigger stuff, I think inches is easier, but for smaller stuff, Metric is easier as you can think with it because the numbers are simpler.
That's my 2 cents.
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Sorry for the long wait,
Here's some pictures.
One half of the mold.
Second half of the mold.
Side by side.
Put together. I added a little chamber up top to help keep it full.
The results.
Very nice surface finish, this was my one and only pour with silicone, WAY to flexible and soft but I have some material coming to test out and see if that works, it COULD work if only I could get the right material for it.
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I was using google chrome.
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Lol.
I can't believe I didn't try that. I just tried it in Firefox and it worked.
Thank you for helping me out.
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Nope, won't let me do it.
Just gives me the same error.
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The download didn't work, I just get a page of random texts when I try to do it, I PM'ed you.
thank you for your help.
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I get this
"
This page isn’t working
If the problem continues, contact the site owner.
HTTP ERROR 426Reload" -
Thank you, It doesn't download though.
Any way you can upload the file for me?
Or I can PM you my email?
I appreciate the help.
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Hey Guys,
Anybody have a link or the plugin for the plugin for Cura that adds a very detailed explanation to all the settings?
The computer I model on and 3D print on is not on the internet and it seems the marketplace can only be accessed through Cura so I'm not able to.
If someone could help me out, that would be much appreciated.
Merry Christmas!
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Well, as an update.
I brought the mold to a co-worker who has done molding in the past and he helped me make a sample peg to see what it looked like when it comes out of the mold.
It came out surprisingly well, used some sort of 2 part silicone and poured it in with the mold clamped shut and it came out really good, stuff was oozing out of the holes I designed into it so it was pretty successful.
I'll have to post some pictures later.
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Okay great.
That's some advantage. With a shore hardness of A40 it's supposedly as hard as an eraser on a pencil.
I'm wondering if it will have any rigidness to it at all or just flex all over the place.
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Thank you for all the feed back guys, I appreciate it.
I designed and printed one half of the mold yesterday. The idea is to just put the 2 together, tape them or whatever, then pour or inject in the liquid silicone/plastic. Due to me planning on using Silicone as the material, at least the first test, the mold can't be silicone, so I printed it out of PLA since silicone also doesn't heat up when poured so it should work out.
I'll post a picture of it later ,it looks pretty nice, the surfaces or at least the flat surfaces were ironed so I think most of it will look pretty nice, I don't particularly care for supremely clean surface finish in this particular application so I'm not too worried about the lines transferring over, as long as it doesn't make a groove for food or bacteria to collect in.
I'll be printing the second half today and hopefully I can do some sort of sample with some sort of material, to see how it'll look.
In terms of releasing the print, I was thinking of just putting oil on the surfaces of the mold, that way it won't stick, is that a bad idea?
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3MM, not sure if that would work for you or not but it does 100*C
High working temperature filament
in Materials & profiles
Posted
There's multiple ones you can use.
Nylon can be a real pain to print, Nylon 12 is good, very high HDT and is really sturdy, not very flexible when hot and not super hygroscopic.
Nylon 6 is also very good but if it's hot and wet then it becomes incredibly flexible but if kept dry, it's also very good and much easier to print, also has a high enough HDT.
Nylon will warp if the prints are bigger, I find it almost impossible to get a warp free nylon print that's large and my printer has a hot bed and a full enclosure, it will peel the tape off the bed with it as it warps.
How big are your parts?