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  1. Nevermind, I guess i'm just too impatient. It ended up installing just fine and works. Thanks though.
  2. Hey Guys, I'm trying to install mesh mixer on Windows just to add another tool to my arsenal, but it currently starts the install and the green install bar stalls about 1/4 through and stops moving, there's no indication anything's happening or that there is a problem, it just seems to be "installing" I'm wondering if internet is required to install it, the computer I model on is off the grid so internet won't be an option for it but since it seems to be a full installer and not just a web client install, I figured it would work. Anybody know why it might be stalling or what I can do?
  3. Happened to me more times than I'm comfortable to admit. Not with an Ultimaker printer but with the 3 Monoprice Ultimate's I've had. It happens if a print is knocked loose from the bed and the filament is extruded into the air, depending on what happens, normally the filament starts to build up on the head and it just keeps going until the print is "done". I've had it encase the entirety of the extruder heat, not just the nozzle or heating block but the entire thing, one of the first prints I attempted when I was just starting out, put it in overnight. It was an absolute mess. I just heated the nozzle and pulled what I could off, then removed the nozzle and scraped the remainder, most of it isn't melted to anything, it's just been pushed up against other cold surfaces during the "print" and should come off relatively easy, it's the stuff on the nozzle that you need to heat up to remove.
  4. Yes, I'm well aware, lol. That sounds about right, if you hover over the setting, it will explain it a little.
  5. It's under the supports section, just hover over the settings but it's something to do with distance between the model and the support, something gap I believe it is.
  6. I print nylon with nylon supports, I don't have a problem removing the supports. Make sure you set the gap to be big enough so they don't fuse together.
  7. Yes, for me at least. I had problems with layer seperation, poor adhesion and just poor quality overall, turning up the temp did it for me.
  8. I had this problem and I turned up my printing temp, now it prints like a dream, even watertight prints.
  9. Good to know, Well, I tried Nylon 6 which seems to work pretty well, Imitating a 1/2" X 20 bolt.
  10. Hey guys, I'm wanting to get a hardened steel nozzle for my Monoprice Ultimate 2 printer, I've only used brass until now with PLA, wood PLA, PETG, Nylon 6, Nylon 12, Colorfabb HT, Ninjatek Armadillo and I think some other odds and ends but I want to get the right nozzle for Nylon and those abrasive types of filaments. I'm looking into getting some Carbon fiber PETg which I believe a hardened nozzle is a must or the brass will die in no time so I set out to find my nozzle thread pitch and size which Monoprice couldn't tell me because they didn't know. The pitch is 1MM and the diameter is 5.85MM so it seems like a nominal 6MM thread which seems common for nozzles. Then I see these MK6,8 and 10 hot end types and I got confused? Does it matter? What I was looking at getting, mainly to make sure I got the thread right is this https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Hardened-Makerbot-Creality-CraftBot/dp/B07MDWXV77/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3D+printing+hardened+nozzle+M6&qid=1580063519&s=hi&sr=8-1 It says it's for an MK8 and it looks similar to what I currently have in terms of overall length, I'm sure I'll have to mess with the Z-offset once I stick it in but I don't mind that, I just want to make sure it'll work but I'm not sure what the "MK" signifies other than the hot end model? Any help would be appreciated.
  11. I'm wanting to print some bolts or threaded rods and I'm wondering what the best filament is for this application. I've done it in PLA before and it works pretty good, I've also done Nylon and that also works pretty good but I'm worried that nylons flexibility won't lead to the best thread, perhaps PETG is a better choice? What's the general preferred material for strong threads?
  12. Interesting. Well, I guess i'll have to collect me some CF infused filaments now, since not one is the best, I'll have to get them all 😄
  13. Interesting, okay awesome. I'm thinking the CF infused PETG would be the most useful?
  14. That might not be wise to print with Nylon then. There's high temp PLA's out there which can do upwards of around 100*C Can't remember the name but I know it exists. Nylon or any descendant of nylon I think will be out of the question due to warpage, perhaps someone else is better than I am with Nylon and can work around it but I can't do large prints. ABS was also a nightmare for me.
  15. There's multiple ones you can use. Nylon can be a real pain to print, Nylon 12 is good, very high HDT and is really sturdy, not very flexible when hot and not super hygroscopic. Nylon 6 is also very good but if it's hot and wet then it becomes incredibly flexible but if kept dry, it's also very good and much easier to print, also has a high enough HDT. Nylon will warp if the prints are bigger, I find it almost impossible to get a warp free nylon print that's large and my printer has a hot bed and a full enclosure, it will peel the tape off the bed with it as it warps. How big are your parts?
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