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Oliveros

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  1. Thank you. Got any advice for making PETG stick to the bed? It's driving me nuts when it gets partway through the print and then starts sliding around. On a seperate note, your idea may just be the key, I tried printing a partial object with the full solid piece like it was on the original and it couldn't quite flex far enough without snapping, so now I'm printing one with your idea. One of which just came off the bed so now it's round 2.
  2. Owen, Your idea was great, it lead me onto the right path, after making one of those shapes, I decided to print it standing up to avoid having to brace the sections and it turns out PETG is WAY more flexible when printed across and not lengthwise, like day and night difference. So I tried 3 or 4 different versions of your idea and they are almost too flexible to work, I don't know if they'll stay on the rail but I'm still experimenting.
  3. Hey Guys, I've been running into an issue on and off with my 3D printer, I've had it for a couple of days and been printing pretty much non stop. I left something to print overnight and it went sideways really fast, checked on it in the morning and the objects were all knocked off the platform and the nozzle was covered in plastic, a mess. So I've been doing Monoprice's PETG, printing at 230*C with a bed temp of 80*C and putting glue down on the brownish kapton (I think it is, came on the glass), I'm using a brim as well. I did it like that for a bit and it would print fine sometimes, not at other times. I then tried to clean the plate and I noticed the glue got very tacky again and tried printing again where I wipe it with water right before it prints and it seems to work okay, then sometimes in the middle of the print, the object get's pulled or somehow loosens off the glass and it's all over from there. It seems like it's OK sometimes and sometimes not, I've just been going by experience at this point and I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do with a glass bed but it seemed to work so I just kept doing the same thing. So what should I do?
  4. Hello everyone, I have a post in the Engineering section as well but it seems this forum is more active so I'll post here as well. I'm trying to figure out a way to make a cylindrical shape snap onto a rod. I attached the OBJ file and a picture so you can see what I'm trying to do. So the question is, how do I make it able to snap on without breaking? I tried making the cylindrical section with the keyhole in it thicker, so instead of being 5 MM, it was 7 MM and it snaps about halfway, I then tried making it thinner at 2MM, 1MM and 0.5MM where 2MM looked the most promising but still snapped before it made it all the way on. I'm going to be expanding the hole and size a little bit to see if that helps but any advice you guys have is welcomed. Belt Peg Collared Version 1.2.obj
  5. Hey Owen, That;s not a bad idea, I could give that a shot. I tried making the wall thickness 7 MM, 2MM, 1MM and 0.5MM and the one that seemed the most promising in terms of snapping on was the 2MM thick one. I'm going to keep experimenting today so any advice is helpful and than k you so far.
  6. Yes, you are correct on the snap opening. I thought about making the keyholes larger but I fear that if I do that, it will unsnap from the rails too easily. Perhaps I can try it and see how it works. Good to see that PETG can survive it better than PLA, this application won't be repetitive snapping and unsnapping, just snap on once and ideally stay there for a long time.
  7. Awesome, I downloaded it, thank you. I'll try it out next chance I get. Does anyone have experience with Monoprice's PETG and what offset works best?
  8. I use Sketchup PRO since I started out with 3D viz type stuff. Blender is a steep learning curve but it's free and very good if you take the time to learn it.
  9. The computer that we use for printing as well as 3D renderings and visualizations is not connected to the internet for security reasons, I have to download it and then transfer it to that computer via a USB. Is there a way to download it without being in Cura?
  10. Okay, I just found one post where they are talking about it, thank you.
  11. Okay, would you mind posting the correct link to download it? I see there's multiple one's so I'm not sure which is the right one.
  12. Hey Owen, I attached a OBJ file of the part I'm trying to do. Ideally I can print it standing up so that I can print more than 2 or 3 at a time and just let it run overnight. Belt Peg Collared Version 1.2.obj
  13. I have an application where I'm trying to get a PETG object to snap onto rails, I've printed one so far and it just snapped the piece being snapped in. What do you guys recommend for making something like that stronger? I made it 2MM thicker but I'm thinking it might not be enough. It was with 20% infill and just 2 walls.
  14. Not sure if I'm beating a dead horse here but does anyone have a way to do a Z axis offset for printing PETG? I'm just getting started and I read you are supposed to offset the Z axis when printing PETG, but I don't see an option for it but just to make sure I asked Ultimaker and they said it did in fact not exist. I saw some plugins but they were for much older versions of Cura, anyone have one for 4.3? Thank you.
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