GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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There is an AnyCubic group on Reddit and you can search there for possibilities. Going through everything would be a huge list.
First and foremost would be to calibrate the E-steps/mm. If the printer is asked to deliver 100mm of filament but only delivers 90mm then there will be under-extrusion. The "Steps/mm" setting in M92 controls that. There are a lot of YouTube videos on how to do it.
I mentioned the color difference in bands on the print, and flecks of black in the print. If the hot end temperature is bouncing up and down you can get burning instead of melting. If the end of the bowden tube is burnt, little pieces of char can break off. That might be what the black flecks are. If a fleck is big enough it can cause a partial blockage in the nozzle and cause under-extrusion.
There is a calibration for the hot end called "Auto Tune". Doing it will require an interface like "PronterFace" that will allow you to send commands to the printer over the USB and to view the responses in a text box in the interface. I'm sure there are videos on doing that as well.
After the calibrations are run and the new settings are in the printer, the settings must be saved in the printer. All of that is firmware specific so checking the Reddit site and the AnyCubic site for what would be required is a good idea.
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Ya know, at those temperatures I wonder if it is actually PETG or some other material?
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Those are very reasonable numbers. I swapped out the stock Creality flexible bed for the glass one. When I print PETG (I print a lot of PETG) I use hairspray as an adhesion promoter. PLA doesn't really need anything and I print it with the bed at 50. As long as I keep the bed clean it works as it should.
The colorant used in any PLA can have an effect on how it prints. I've always found white to be tougher and I print it at 200 with the fan at 100%. I think they use titanium oxide as the colorant so it's actually metal rather than a normal dye/chemical sort of thing. For comparison I print most PLA at 205 and silky at 215 to try to aid the layer adhesion.
You may just have to cut your losses on that filament. This doesn't really sound like a moisture problem so trying to dry it probably won't make a difference. You may end up having to use an adhesion promoter so you can at least use it up and move on.
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I didn't have any trouble with it and the Gcode looks fine. The bed and extruder heating commands are there. It looks to me like it should print fine.
When you use a save or open command in Cura it just makes a call to the operating system to handle the event. What operating system are you using.
If you save the gcode to your hard drive first and then copy the file to the SD card does that work? You should be able to tell from the file size.
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What printer? There are extrusion problems, but there is also color banding in the filament (the sort of beige areas). I see a couple of black flecks in there as well.
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Hypno-Toad = 18
Bender Rodriguez = 2,163,478
Zebulon = 17
OK, back to business. There are serious problems in that StartUp Gcode. The G92 E0 line that is commented out is part of the problem. Without it, the printer isn't synced to the E numbers in the gcode and definitely doesn't know where the end of the filament is. It makes for a huge retraction when the StartUp Gcode ends with the E at around 150 (maybe). Then after the layer start the G1 F4200 E0 is telling the printer to move to 0 which from 150 makes for a large retraction. It isn't the only problem.
I would make the startup something like I've scribbled below. It should work provided the extruders don't have their own StartUp Gcode. If they do then they might cause problems with this code.
Start by making a project file ("File | Save Project") and post it here. It will also be your backup if the code below doesn't help.
After making the project file, in Cura go to "Settings / Printer / Manage Printers" and then "Machine Settings" and clear the StartUp G-Code box. Then copy the code below and paste it into the StartUp G-Code box.
;-----StartUp G-Code
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start to heat the bed
M109 S175 ; Warm up the hot end a bit and wait for it
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Heat the bed all the way and wait for itG28 ;Auto-Home
G29 ; Auto Level
G0 F1200 Z7 ; Move up
G0 X0 Y0 ; Ensure nozzle is at the origin to ooze there
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, initial_extruder_nr} ; Heat the hot end to Initial Layer Print TempG92 E0 ;Reset active extruder
G0 F5000 X1 Y20 Z0.3 ;move to purge start
G1 F1500 X1 Y200.0 F1500.0 E15 ;draw 1st line
G0 F5000 X4 Y200.0 ;move over 3mm
G1 F1500 X4 Y20 E30 ;draw 2nd line
G1 F1200 Z1.0 ;move z up
;-----End of StartUpYou only need to print the first layer of a file to see if the above will work. Post the project file first though. There can be an interference if any Extruder StartUp Gcode isn't taken into account.
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Use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. It will contain your printer, the model, and your Cura settings.
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What speed are you trying to print at and what nozzle size? Pushing plastic through the hot end at high volumes will introduce it's own cooling effect.
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"...for a particular PLA that may just be garbage..."
That appears to be a big part of this. Every printer will be at least slightly different, but 220 as a print temperature for PLA is pretty high. A 90° build plate temperature for PLA is well above the "Glass Temperature" of the material and would normally be considered a "Bad Thing". It isn't shrinking at that temperature because it isn't hardening.
The only roll of filament I ever simply threw away happened a couple of years ago and was an Amazon purchase of Sunlu silky. It was just really bad and near impossible to print. A lot of people use Sunlu without any problems so I just chalked it up to a bad roll.
Once burned and twice shy - I've never bought any more Sunlu.
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It doesn't look like anything changed in the definition files for the Ender 3. The "Z-seam Location" is still listed as "User Defined" and "Back".
Maybe it was an inadvertent change because your custom "Sturdy Super Quality .4" profile has the Z-Seam location set to "Random" and that's what seems to be causing the nozzle to jump around doing little areas and causing the discontinuity.
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With the Z-seam listed as "Random" you are getting random line starts all over the place.
With any "User Specified" Z-seam location (such as "Back") things look as you seem to expect.
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Yeah, yeah...gotta have it.
Sometimes I can figure out how a model got to be like it is. With this model it isn't apparent. There is something out there in space and both Cura and MS3D Builder notice it, but I can't see it.
When I split the model and get rid of the good part, the invisible remainder will slice with no material, no print time, but 367 layers.
Finally (because this kind of stuff drives me nuts) I exported the invisible mess from Cura as ASCII STL file. Opening that in a text editor shows that there are 14 facets in the file. That tells me there isn't anything important in there and deleting the invisible stuff isn't a problem.
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It might be easier than that.
Bring the model into Cura and then select it. Click on the "Scale" tool and check out the size of the model. X=198.7 Y=197.2 Z= 279.8 and that's why it won't slice. It has "artifacts" floating around. They are nearly invisible, but they are there.
You have to have the Mesh Tools plugin loaded from the Cura MarketPlace:
- Select the model in Cura.
- Use the "Mesh Tools" "Split model into parts" command.
- Right-click on the workspace and select "Select all models".
- Hold down the shift key and select the model you want to keep. (That will remove it from the selection set.)
- Hit "delete".
All the extraneous stuff will go away and you should be able to slice.
I don't know how the designer ended up with all those artifacts in the model. Fortunately they can be eliminated.
You can see that the shadow of the model on the build plate is much different here than it was for the downloaded model shown above.
Now, is it still the same part? Close examination is required to make sure no important stuff was deleted.
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I've used both "Remove all Holes" and "Make Overhangs Printable" to adjust things on certain models but I always need to remember to turn them off when that slice is complete.
In particular - "Make Overhangs Printable" can be sneaky because sometimes it's changes aren't real obvious.
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Go to the MarketPlace, click on the Gear icon, and disable "USB Printing".
Here you can see that I have it disabled (and for the same reason). You will need to shut Cura down and restart after disabling.
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There is no need to yell.
You should ask on an Elegoo site. This is the UltiMaker forum.
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Thank you. I try to explain the bottom of the problem so when a person gets something similar they have that base to fall back on. You can't really fix a problem if you don't understand the problem.
That sort of advice often isn't appreciated (or wanted) by the "I just want to fix it...I don't need to know all that" crowd.
My answer to that is "DUUHHH, yes you do".
Everybody blings their printer at least a little bit and I'm no different. The printer is black and I went with silky copper for the bling. This is my favorite piece. Make no mistake...it is just as useful as it looks.
Like most bling pieces, I was printing and getting to know how silkys differ from regular PLA. The number one thing is that layer adhesion is pretty poor. Number 2 is that if it isn't a print that has to be strong, silkys look terrific.
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It's just the nature of FDM printing. What is likely happening is that the points are coming to "knife edges" and once the width of the knife edge falls below the "minimum line width", Cura knows the nozzle can't extrude it and so it is ignored. The problem with knife edges is that the necessary line width approaches 0.0000 and the smaller the included angle the more model gets excluded.
You could make an adjustment to the model to ensure that the "point" is at least a nozzle width across.
Just for a test, make your line width 0.10 and you should see the points get closer together. Make the line width 1.0 and you should see the gap get bigger.
None of the triangles actually complete. The narrow one is only 0.8 at the base so a lot of it just won't slice because it gets too narrow. This is with a 0.40 line width.
This is with a 1.0 line width and nozzle. The narrow triangle disappears.
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There is such a thing as "lost PLA casting". I don't think it will replace "lost wax" in the jewelry industry.
The thing I like about Lost PLA is you get to empty the beer cans before smelting them down to make a casting.
It's "quaffing before smelting".
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C'mon man!! We haven't even gotten to pour molds or blow molding yet,
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I designed the "Bender Brau" label but couldn't figure out how to print it the way I wanted it. Another problem was that it wouldn't slide into the fingers with the printing on it. So it's just generic "Brand X" beer which was my go-to brand anyway. Cheap was good.
Yes, I've put this up previously. This was before I printed the bottle. I was afraid that a glass bottle would slide out of the fingers. It wouldn't do to waste
goodbeer like that.
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These are part of a costume (Bender the Robot from Futurama). They are large prints so any flaws (and there aren't many) are hard to pick out. The filament was fresh and dry.
All-in-all I was quite pleased with the way the entire project turned out.
(That's a glue joint you can see where the fingers meet the wrist.)
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The marks on the left cheek look similar to what happens when the print head hesitates going around a curve. That very short hesitation can cause a little blob. It looks similar to a problem that can occur on the hulls of some Benchys.
But...
The marks on the left jaw area near the Z-seam...I don't know. It's at the beginning of a straight run so there wouldn't be any hesitation there. That puts doubt on the ones on the cheek being from hesitation as well.
All your settings look pretty normal. The model is small so my personal preference would be to make a couple of changes. "Max comb distance with no retract" to a smaller number like 1.50. That will help with any stringing between the model and the support.
The "Connect Infill Lines" setting can greatly cut down on the number of retractions.
I would enable Z-hops for this print. Looking at the preview of the slice, there aren't any travel moves that intersect either the left jaw or left cheek areas. Silkies are susceptible to leaving marks when the nozzle moves outside a print to the support, and then back into the model. Enabling Z-hops can help with that as the nozzle will pass over the outer wall rather than dragging across it.
I would lower the Acceleration to 500. That will generally leave a better finish on small models that have a lot of starts and stops and might help with the ringing in your prints.
If you were to enable "Make Overhangs Printable" then the underside of the nose would not require support. That would completely eliminate the nozzle moving outside the print for this model.
I'll mention this just in passing: I bought a roll of Sunlu Silky Silver from Amazon and I had trouble with it. It turned out to be loaded with moisture. I haven't had any trouble with other rolls of Sunlu filament and a lot of people use it. That one roll though...someone may have left it out in the rain before they packaged it. It was really bad.
As good as the silkies can look, they can be fussy and show every little flaw.
This is a gcode with your settings, my Ender 3 Pro, and some funky silky gold that's been sitting for a year.
I dropped the Accel at the indicated layer in each image and from there up the finish looks better.
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There are materials that are used as "mold release agents". A thin coating is typically applied to molds when making things like fiberglass boat hulls because the molds are often also constructed of fiberglass. The hull would want to chemically bond to the mold without the release agent in place. (That would make for a really ugly boat.)
Getting a part out of a mold is often a tricky process. It might be done with something as simple as screwdriver slots so the part could be levered out, or something fancy like compressed air, or ejector pins. Something that would push the part out without harming a "show" surface. You can sometimes see the marks left by ejector pins on smallish injection molded parts. They usually look like a 3mm circle on the part.
Remplissage sinusoidal
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For something that you can't see and mostly just holds up the roof...I agree there are lots of choices.
There is now the "Cura Tiled Infill Generator" in the MarketPlace. You can alter one of the examples ("Cura", Honeycomb", etc.) or create your own "*.wkt" file.