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Everything posted by GregValiant

  1. "...ideally they won't change position..." I see you're an optimist. When dealing with users it is better to be a pessimist. If you design a textbox and it is supposed to contain only numbers and then Fat Finger Freddie hits the R key instead of the 5 key the error has to be trapped or something stupid will happen. If you catch the keystroke you can inform the user right away. If you catch the exit from the box it's OK. If you catch a button click that is going to use the bogus data, you have to slap the user's wrist and send them back to enter correct data. One of the tools in
  2. I went and got it out of the box. I thought I'd peek back in here and see if I still need it. Yep...I need My Helmet. I want everyone here to know that no plastic animals (or God forbid - minis) were killed during the making of the helmet. It's all metal with NO printed parts. Back to business. I have looked closely at the "I" in MONITOR and have found it to be the same as the "I" in PREVIEW. I (another one) have therefore come to the conclusion that @y care's attempt to be the "I" police will not result in him getting a job at Apple. Surely all of the adults here can agre
  3. What I've done is to set the stepper time out to 4 hours instead of the default 2 minutes when the app is started. I'm not real happy with that as keeping the steppers energized and holding position does involve wear and tear. I haven't found (and I'm 95% sure it doesn't exist) a way to query the machine to find out if the steppers are enabled or disabled. If they are disabled then sending an M114 is useless since as you say - the machine would send back "where it thought it was". If however the steppers are still enabled, then the M114 returns good information on the print head and extrud
  4. I can understand the thought, but I have doubts about it being effective. The extrusion starts cooling within micro-seconds of coming out of the nozzle. It would be pretty hard once it got to the 2nd layer and I don't see any real bonding beyond that. There isn't any squish like between adjacent layers either. When mechanically welding plastics both the pieces are heated, the heater is rapidly retracted, and the two parts are forced together. The bond is made when the near liquid high temp plastic on both pieces fuse and then cool together. It's the same sort of thi
  5. I've been working on a couple of applications for 3d printers. It would be really useful to be able to query the printer to see if the steppers have lost their position. I can disable them, I can enable them, but I haven't come across anything that just asks the question "Hey, do you know where you 're at?". Knowing if a "Home All" or "Home XY" is required before running a routine would be a good thing. I would prefer not to have to call homing moves constantly if they aren't required. M114 gives the last known position. What I want to know is if the XYZ are flashing on the LCD. (Th
  6. Spiralize will do the outer wall of the model and vary the Z in increments until it comes around to the "Layer Start". At that point it will be one layer height above the previous Layer Start and it just keeps moving. EXCEPT it does print the bottom of the model in a conventional way using the Bottom Layers setting and doesn't start to spiralize until it gets above that. I would expect to see typical gcode (like what you have) up till Bottom Layers +1 where the speed will drop and the number of gcode lines with a Z move goes way up and is incremental as the head moves around the
  7. Much nicer. And thanks for getting back with what you found. "...it makes main board choke on commands and skip movements if the path is very detailed (many points per mm)" And that is why any remote hosting is difficult to do. I guess Octoprint does a fair job. Cura and PrintRun not so much. The transmission speed of the data (Lines of GCODE / second) has to vary according to how long a particular print head move takes. When the SD is in the printer slot, the Printer/Planner just grabs another line of gcode when it needs it. It doesn't have to wait, and it doesn'
  8. Like I say, when I get just a few feet of filament left on a roll I use it to help me understand these kind of things. It's better than just throwing it away. Cura is complicated. Everything effects everything. The only way to get to know it is to practice. @gr5 has been doing this way longer than I have. Maybe he'll have a different take on it. In the mean time - your belts are good and snug? No wiggle room on the X or Y carriages? Cura supports quite a few different formats. In the Open File dialog check the dropdown that says "all supported files" and you'll see the
  9. 10 feet of filament left on a roll isn't good for anything except testing. But it comes in real handy for testing. So before I ran out of filament - My Bottom line - .6 line width looks really good. (but I couldn't maintain 50mm/sec and had to run at 90%). With coasting on - Z seams were ugly. Line width of .36 for the walls - OK but Z seams weren't a lot better. This shot is with line width at .4 and you can see that there are mesh moves to fill the gap between the 2 outer walls. This is with the line width at .36. Cura can now use a
  10. If you'll post the model file here we'll give it a slice. My Ender has the silent board, Marlin 1.1.8, and I'll slice with Cura 4.7. Other than the main board my printer is much the same as yours.
  11. They all have to be brim. Then select a model that you don't want a brim on and click on "Per Model Settings" and "Print as Normal Model" and then "Select Settings" and select the "Brim Distance" setting. If you enter a 3 then the brim will stay 3mm away from that model. You will still be printing a brim all the way around, but it won't be in contact with any model that you change the brim distance on.
  12. Enable Acceleration control at 500 and Jerk control at 20. If your acceleration setting is too high (or not turned on) the printer can't keep up and gets herky-jerky going around radii. I've found the max for circles to be 500 on my Ender 3Pro. Jerk settings below 20 aren't as smooth. With the acceleration control at 500 it will have a significant impact on the overall print speed but it should smooth things out. You are right in that neither Marlin nor Cura support true arcs or circles. G2 and G3 commands simply make a bunch of short lines out of the circumference. They do
  13. It's all about the build plate size and the Home Offset X value. In Cura, the build plate size is in the machine settings. in the printer the home offsets are changed using M206 and then saved to memory with M500. When you change the Home Offset, you effectively move the build area because the printing 0,0,0 changes. A picture or two would be good. It's hard to get a feel for what you need to do.
  14. Not much to go on there Bivai. A screen shot would be nice. A picture is still worth a thousand words.
  15. The non-printable areas overlap. In Machine Settings change your X and Y printhead settings to the actual clearances around the nozzle at 5mm off the build plate. For me that would be X-7 min, X40 max and Y-10 min and Y22 max. Then re-select "All at Once" and then go back to "One at a time" to re-set the non-printable areas. The settings from the machine profile are of the entire printhead in the plan view. Your parts are so short you can cheat a bit. Hopefully. Maybe. I have a 5015 cooling fan with a duct that curves around to the back (for better visibility from the fr
  16. "I have flow calibrated and 93.02% is used." You didn't perhaps use a single or double wall cube to calibrate that odd number did you? If you did then I have a prepared speech to make. (It's really more of a rant so I'll spare you at this point.) Suffice to say that if your E-steps are calibrated then flow should be 100% plus or minus a couple percent for variations in filament diameter. Having to drop 6.98% below the calibrated E-steps just doesn't sound right to me. So I would make a test model of maybe one sector of the model, and print it starting with the flow at
  17. If the build plate is empty then a model comes in with the X Y center of geometry at the center of the build plate. I'm not sure about how it handles the Z (but it isn't center of geometry). You can move the model up or down by selecting the move tool and grabbing the Z grip arrow. You can also type the XYZ numbers into the boxes. Those options are not available if "Drop to build plate" is active. If you are trying to set one model on top of another then type the Z value into the dialog box.
  18. Yes. It is the typical way to change colors. The two filaments (your polymers) should be the same material. For example: PLA will not stick to PETG in any meaningful fashion. The easiest way is to to do an entire layer. In Cura select "Extensons", "Post-Processing" and "Modify Gcode". Add the Script PauseAtHeight twice. Fill in the information for the first Pause at Height at the layer you want to pause the print to change filament. Fill in the second pause at height with the re-start layer information so you can go back to the original filament. There is a box there for
  19. It looks like it should have worked. Did it move up and not want to come back down (or vice versa)? You didn't mention the printer or firmware so I'm guessing here, and what I'm guessing is that it doesn't like the 9000 speed for a Z move (although it should move but at whatever the max Z speed is in M203). I would suggest you take out the line you added and try this: G1 F600 Z27.6 G0 F9000 X241.99 Y35.25 Z27.6 G0 F1200 Z249 G0 Z27.6 G0 F9000 M104 S200 I don't know your max Z speed but the Z hop speed of 600 is pretty slow so I jacked it up to 1200
  20. The Gcode flavor should be Marlin. It is in your machine settings in Cura. I have seen this problem from time to time. It seems to appear randomly and then goes away without me actually doing anything different. This thread here describes the same problem. @burtoogle advised "I would reduce the max comb distance without retract to 10 and use the not in skin combing mode." That seemed to work for the person having the problem.
  21. I think there is some confusion regarding the speed. The LCD does not display the speed of any move. It displays the Feed Rate (Fr) %. 100% means your 50mm/sec comes in and goes out as 50mm/sec. During a print you can use the Tune menu and change the main parameters of a print. FlowRate%, FeedRate%, HotEnd°, Bed°, and Fan%. If you bump the speed up to 110% then your 50 comes in and goes out as 55. In a gcode file the speed is expressed in mm/minute. I'm sure that if you check the code you will see a lot of F3000's. Not on every line since that isn't required, but they will be in ther
  22. "Just generate the gcode first (whether in MakerWare or RepG, it doesn't matter). Then use Repetier-Host to view the gcode "print". If you like what you see, then convert the gcode to x3g. It's a single step in RepG (convert an opened gcode file to x3g)." - https://groups.google.com/g/makerbot/c/kPCF31ZHn44?pli=1
  23. I think every model has a blue line around it. Usually when Cura refuses to slice there is a problem with the model, or, the model + skirt/brim/raft didn't fit the printable area of the build plate. There is usually a pop-up to tell the user that there is a problem.
  24. When I made a rectangle I ended up at 1mm undersize on X and Y. I can't remember why I had to do that (it was over a week ago) but it worked to get it centered. I ended up with just the logo without a base. It's hard to see. I think I'll start a thread so I can complain about it not being able to fade through different colors. Maybe a plug-in would work.
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