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Everything posted by GregValiant

  1. It's definitely the model. The walls show all the deformations for me that they did for you. I uploaded it to NetFabb in case it just needed repair, but it came back the same. As it happens, I'm a Tin Can Tourist myself. We have a 1972 Shasta Compact that I re-did. I made a bunch of these trailers (and the drink coasters that go inside) to sell at the spring TCT rally that has now been cancelled. I think it has the kind of finish you are shooting for so I've attached it. Happy Camper Trailer.3mf
  2. A 3D philosophy question. "Ambidextrous means it won't work either way and Universal means you'll need a Harley tool and a torch." - Me It is rare for anything to be excellent at everything. It would seem that Cura, Prusaslicer, and Simplify3d occupy the top of the heap of slicers. Is it a coincidence that it's all they do? Or is their excellence a product of their focus. Give me a tool that is excellent at it's job. I don't want a hammer that has a screwdriver for a peen.
  3. When trimming an ellipse the remaining shape is still an ellipse, but when I offset one in my older version of Mechanical Desktop it turns into a spline. Splines are certainly different to deal with. That is especially true if they become part of a loft. The smoothness between the control points comes into play. If it's legal, post that here as a 3mf file (File | Save Project). Who knows. Maybe somebody will see something. All those facets are an issue though and they might still be in the model.
  4. If there was a prize here for the ugliest slicing you'd be the front runner. Another thing that can have an effect is the Mesh Fixes | Maximum Resolution. As @gr5 mentioned, turning down the resolution can help make the "average" more of a circle. Setting the Maximum Resolution for my Ender from 0.05 (a lot of stuttering) to 0.5 made a huge difference.
  5. I got that to work. I don't know about the Gcode or how/if it would print. Here is a 3mf with the dual extruder printer and a couple of calibration cubes. 25x25Cube.3mf
  6. OK @Ray722 it's right from the Ghost's mouth. I believe you have a little light reading ahead of you. I'll look at it too and if I see anything I'll chip in.
  7. 1000/25.4 = 39.37 So sometimes it's probably meters, and sometimes it's something other. At any rate as ahoeben says it's likely in Solid Edge either in the drawing units, or it's an STL export utility setting.
  8. The angled part of the wheel is in shadow so I can't see it. The working part of the wheel is the angled area (as it moves in the track). If those slice marks do not extend onto the angled portion then it is not an issue. The print looks good. Overshoot can be caused by loose belts or other forms of backlash as well has high print speeds. Enabling Accel and Jerk control with low values (like 500 Accel and 8 Jerk) can help by slowing the print head before a turn, but with short runs like on that part it doesn't come into play very much (unless you have Accel and Jerk control tur
  9. If you add a custom FFF printer you can pretty much configure it however you want. The two options under "Custom" are Custom FFF and Custom Smoothie. A custom FFF can have any of the available Gcode Flavors. I've played with configuring a CustomFFF as a dual extruder and as a 4 into 1 extruder. I'm hampered since I don't actually own one of them. I do slice and study the gcode files to see how Cura handles them in case questions come up here. That Gcode file you included would run on my Ender. If you absolutely need the x3g format for the printer you may be stuck. I'm no
  10. The underside of the ring is an overhang that would want support. I think the reason you are getting the stringing is that there is some air printing going on. In the model file - put a 45° x {width of overhang} chamfer between the ring and the pot body and set your "Support Overhang Angle" setting to 50°. It won't require support and it won't air print. Thanks for clearing up the confusion. I was wondering what the heck we were looking at.
  11. The handle ring will be printed inside the pot(?), and then as the pot builds up it will enclose the ring? That confuses me too. If you have the "Support Placement" setting on "Everywhere" it should be supported. A problem I see is that the overhang of the pot itself will need support and with the ring inside it will be in the way. The ring would have to be placed in the pot just right so the top edge of the pot gets supported and that support will necessarily be printed on the ring. I hope you can get your hands inside. Getting the supports out will be tough.
  12. Among the menu options on your printer there may be one for steps/mm for the steppers. Unfortunately I don't know that it will be there and I'm not sure what it would be called. Each stepper would have it's own steps/mm and it is usually shown as X=80 Y=80 Z=400 E=93 (those are the original numbers for my Ender). A fellow named Chep makes U-Tube videos that he calls Filament Fridays. He is pretty Creality centric, but you may find something there to help. There is another guy that makes Teaching Tech videos as well. Since your printer appears to be a Prusa clone, maybe Prusa forums c
  13. You know your machine, but at 195 you're 15° cooler than I would have printed it. I'll assume PLA which isn't known for warping. It can warp if bed adhesion is weak, or if there is a draft from a heat register (or somewhere) blowing at the printer. I see the bed is at 60 and that's OK, are you using anything as an adhesion promoter (hairspray or glue stick)? Are you using a glass bed? But yes, it could just be a fingerprint or something on the bed.
  14. Sorry, I don't know the x3g routine. It would seem reasonable that Cura would simply convert the gcode from text to binary (or hex or Latin) rather than adding or removing commands. The fact that the hot end temp falls off is odd. When I pre-heat the bed and hot end together, as the gcode runs (like the previous post) the printer knows to wait for the bed to heat up but nothing tells it to turn the hot end off so it just keeps heating, or floats at print temp, until it's own heating instructions show up. At that point it swings into the print. In the Cura Marketplace there is a
  15. In the main Cura window click on your printer name and choose Manage Printers then select Machine Settings. On the left are the basic settings and one of them is Gcode Flavor. Plain old Marlin should do. I'm not home and can't access my printer but in the Ender I think Volumetric is under Filament. I have CRS disease and can't really recall. The printer and Cura need to match or one will be thinking mm³ and the other is thinking plain mm. Usually (if this is the problem) it's the printer that got inadvertently set to volumetric and under-extrusion is the result.
  16. Hello, You have a complicated Z system and I think you need to visit it. You have dual Z motors. Each is attached to the frame at 3 points. Those 3 points (output shaft, brass nut, top bracket) must be exactly in line or you can get binding. Additionally, that's a big frame and the X beam needs to travel freely without binding or wobbling. It's a juggling act to get them all working together. My Ender is a single lead screw without a top support. It needed 0.3mm of shim behind the Z motor mount to make the lead screw straight up and down. Your top brackets complicat
  17. Double check your Cura Machine Settings and make sure that your Gcode Flavor is NOT "Marlin(Volumetric)". Then check your printer firmware and make sure Volumetric Extrusion is turned off there as well. In my Ender that setting is called "E in mm/3". There are a lot of Flow settings in Cura. If you search for "Flow" you can double check that they are all at 100%. If the Extruder Steps/mm are out-of-calibration then under or over extrusion can result. Since you have tried to increase the flow (from the LCD?) that probably isn't the issue.
  18. Diabolical is the correct word. Tree supports. Everywhere. No Support Interface. XY distance as close as you dare. No Support Z distance. And a .2 nozzle at .12 layer height. And cooling. A lot of cooling. I have never used the "Lift Head" setting but for this one I think 20 second minimum layer time and "Lift Head". I am not at home and so cannot print this to check my theory. I am curious about it...and where we can find the demon who came up with it. Greg of Orvieto
  19. I'm going to vote for the glue solution. You would need to alter the model by slicing it in half edgewise. Then put two 2.2mm diameter holes in the backside of the black part, but not through to the show side. With the part loaded in Cura, make a copy and then mirror the copy. Print. The skull will be raised and the hidden 2.2mm holes would be against the bed. Cut two pieces of filament 5mm long and super-glue them into the 2.2mm holes in one part. Trim them short. Super-glue the two halves together. The filament becomes the locating pins to "clock" the pieces. You can use
  20. You can load an STL directly with Cura. No intermediary is required. What Torgeir (so indelicately) said that I missed is that Cura uses the X and Y dimensions you have in the Machine Settings to determine the build plate size. When you open an STL in Cura, it is supposed to come in with it's own XY center of geometry at the center point of the build plate, and with the lowest surface resting on the build plate. Some software (Fusion 360?) can sometimes alter an STL file and introduce it's own coordinate system. That can cause Cura to put the model somewhere other than the center
  21. Right click on the build plate and pick "Select All Models". In the toolbox on the left of the main Cura window - the top tool is the movement tool. Select it and set the X Y and Z all to zero and then use the tab key to adjust the last change. The model should move to the center of the Cura build plate. Not all STL files are created equal. Some have extraneous crap floating around that causes oddities in a slicer. Torgier's suggestion really should have worked but with the X and Y also being off, maybe that benchy file has an issue.
  22. Line 91904 sets the printer to absolute E and then line 91907 tells the extruder to move to -5. All it can do is what it's told. If it has to move 4000 to get there, then that's what it does. You still might want to add the G92 E0 line in the End-Gcode just before the M84. If you checked and found the Octo End Script empty, and later it had a script, it might add it back in again under certain conditions.
  23. I have no idea. It's under construction and I think they started with an earlier version (maybe 4.6?) and built on top of that. If you save your file using "File | Save Project" it should keep all the settings for you. When you open it in Arachne most should transfer over.
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