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DarRAven

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    How do I get a clean top layer?

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by DarRAven
    note it can change on your filament

    On 5/6/2020 at 4:09 PM, FraggleRock said:

    Apart from the suggested z-hop, I also enabled "Retract at layer change" and I don't know which of these or both helped but those layer change lines disappeared.

    The big  difference that fixed the patchwork didn't happen from settings though. I separated the letters from the top layer (in the model) by .02mm enough so that the slicer doesn't create a hole at their base. That way the top surface prints as one uninterrupted flat area, then adds the letters on top starting on the next layer. The 0.02mm gap worked with 0.1mm layer height setting. Any other layer height might need a different/larger gap to avoid making a hole during slicing. So people who try this at different printing resolution should check the layers in the preview first to make sure the top surface closes before anything on top of it starts.

    It's an easy fix, but if this eventually became a cura feature that would be awesome!

    I recently made a test about this and find out it decreases the durability around %5-10

    • Like 1

    Slicer separating shapes in an object

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by DarRAven

    12 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

    The model is not manifold

    That means it is not watertight you should be able to print your object with other slicers but cura will kepp warning you you can repair your models by the link below

     

    Just drag and drop your file there and it instantly repairs it. Well.... atleast it did mine. 🙂

    The file now loads up in Cura without any errors.

     

    https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php

    How do I get a clean top layer?

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    2 hours ago, FraggleRock said:

    Apart from the suggested z-hop, I also enabled "Retract at layer change" and I don't know which of these or both helped but those layer change lines disappeared.

    The big  difference that fixed the patchwork didn't happen from settings though. I separated the letters from the top layer (in the model) by .02mm enough so that the slicer doesn't create a hole at their base. That way the top surface prints as one uninterrupted flat area, then adds the letters on top starting on the next layer. The 0.02mm gap worked with 0.1mm layer height setting. Any other layer height might need a different/larger gap to avoid making a hole during slicing. So people who try this at different printing resolution should check the layers in the preview first to make sure the top surface closes before anything on top of it starts.

    It's an easy fix, but if this eventually became a cura feature that would be awesome!

    I think you should suggest it right here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues

    How do I get a clean top layer?

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    10 hours ago, FraggleRock said:

    Here is the new print. It does have some artifacts which are partly because I got too frugal with the number of top layers this time, to speed up the print, and it revealed some creases from the infil pattern under, as well as some other issues that wouldn't show up if only it got more layer passes. But the fundamental issue of the different patches is gone! I think I will combine it with some ironing and it will look like smooth metal for sure!

    I am glad to be able to help you 🙂

    Retraction from prime tower to part

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by DarRAven
    typo

    You can enable coasting in cura it will stop extruding slightly before wall ends that will cause that extra filament to stay inside the walls. Also if you are using a custom printer or a marlin/repetier based printer try to calibrate the extruders step/mm setting (google) It is easy to do because some cheap printers dont give attention to these calibrations

    Cura 4.3 Pause at Layer/Height not working on Artillery Sidewinder X1

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by DarRAven

    Watch this "Ethan Makes" video to see the plugin in action:
    https://youtu.be/hfgeq00mI9I

     

    Usage (with default settings):

    Cura:

    1. Switch to the layer view and determine the layer which you want to pause at. It will pause at the beginning of the layer that you choose.
    2. From Cura's main menu, choose Extensions->Post Processing->Modify G-Ccode
    3. Click the "Add a script" button
    4. Choose "Change filament at height"
    5. Enter the desired layer in the "Pause at layer" box
    6. Choose the Pause/Change method. Read more about this below.
    7. Click the "Close" button
    8. For additional pauses, simply repeat
    9. Save the G-Code file to an SD card

    Pause/Change Method

    • M25 "Pause SD Print" (Default) This method gives you the most control, but you must be printing from an SD card since it uses the SD pause command. This is the default method and the one that you should use if your printer supports it. Using this method, you resume the printer using the Resume/Continue Print function on your printer's controller. Therefore, while paused, you still have full access to other controller functions such as temperature and moving the axis.
    • M0 "Stop" Using this method, you resume the printer simply by pressing the selection button on your controller. Since you cannot use the other controller functions while paused, this method is less ideal, however, it's supported on most printers (like the CR-10 and the Prusa MK3). Only use this method for filament changes if you can manually change the filament without needing controller functions. Works great if you just want to pause. It can also be used if you're not printing from the SD card, unlike the M25 method.
    • M600 "Filament Change" This method simply inserts the M600 Filament Change command at the desired layer and your printer takes over from there. This gives you the least control, but if your printer has a nice implementation of M600, this is easily the simplest method if you want to change the filament. You shouldn't use this method if you just want to pause the printer (try M0 instead).

    The "Cool extruder on pause" feature is not compatible with multiple extruders. It won't know which extruder to heat back up or which temp to use. So, disable that feature if you're using multiple extruders.

    Printer (M25 Method):

    1. Print the file from the SD card
    2. The printer will pause at the designated layer, turn off the extruder heat to avoid burning the filament in the nozzle, then beep to get your attention
    3. On the printer's control box, under the SD Card menu, choose "Continue Print". The printer will lock the stepper motors then beep. If you are inserting items, now's the time to do it.
    4. When you are ready to change filament or resume, choose "Continue Print" again, and your extruder will start heating back up to temperature. Once the extruder is at temperature, the printer will lock the stepper motors then beep again. If you are changing filament, now's the time to do it.
    5. Once you've changed the filament or are ready to resume, choose "Continue Print". The plugin will immediately prime the nozzle, then beep again.
    6. Wipe the nozzle then choose "Continue Print" the final time to resume the print.

    In summary, here's the sequence each time you "Continue Print":

    1. Lock stepper motors (insert items)
    2. Heat up extruder (wait for it...) then lock stepper motors (change filament)
    3. Prime nozzle (wipe)
    4. Resume print

    If you're using the M0 method, you'll use the button on the controller to resume. If you're using the M600 method, your printer will mostly likely walk you through the process of changing the filament.

    IMPORTANT: If you set a value for "Move print head Z", it will attempt to raise the nozzle by that amount from the current z height, up to the max your printer allows. Leave the "Move print head Z" parameter at 5mm to move the head up 5mm from the print before parking. Setting it to 0 still raises it a minimum of 1 layer. If the current z height plus the value that you enter is less than 25mm, it will raise up to a minimum of 25mm so that you have room to work under the nozzle. If you put in a large value, you could possibly ruin your print or damage your cables (if your printer configuration reports a larger max Z than it actually allows because of cables, extruder height, etc.). Avoid using X and Y of 0 and 0 because your printer may hit your limit switches, causing it to lose a step or two. For my printer, Park X and Y of 10 and 10 puts it in the front left. 190 and 190 puts it in the back right (depends on your bed size). The M25 method only pauses if you are printing from an SD card or Octoprint.

    INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (Cura 4, 3, or 2): To install, simply close down Cura, drop the ChangeAtHeight.py file into the Cura PostProcessingPlugin plugins folder, then restart Cura. My plugins folder, using the default path, was at: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts for Cura 4.x and 3.x and C:\Program Files\Cura 2.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts for Cura 2.x.

    M25 Supported:

    • Wanhao Duplicator i3
    • Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus
    • Monoprice Maker Select
    • Balco 3D Printer
    • Balco 3D Printer Touch
    • Prusa i3 MK2
    • Anet A8
    • (Most Repetier based firmware printers)

    M0 Supported

    • CR-10
    • CR-10S
    • Ender 3
    • Prusa i3 MK3 (Pause only)
    • (Most Marlin based firmware printers)

    M600 Supported

    • Prusa i3 MK3
    • Ender 3
    • LulzBot TAZ 5
    • (Some Marlin based firmware printers)

     

     

    Also you can learn which firmware you are using by a little google search

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