DarRAven

print it front side as top side I mean turn it

I recently made a test about this and find out it decreases the durability around %5-10

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I think it is because of the tiny infil area try to print it on the wider surface that will give more area for infill and make the print more reliable maybe even faster

I am glad to be able to help you

I am glad to hear that

Maybe if you send the model and the gcode i can help

If you search for datasheet user manuals service manuals etc. about your "Kaiser rostrum" you can find information about which pin is which I dont know is there any manuals but there must be you should search for it 🧐

That means it is not watertight you should be able to print your object with other slicers but cura will kepp warning you you can repair your models by the link below Just drag and drop your file there and it instantly repairs it. Well.... atleast it did mine. 🙂 The file now loads up in Cura without any errors. https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php

I think you should suggest it right here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues

I am glad to be able to help you 🙂

Why would you do that Bigger initial layer height means better adhesion not Smaller

I guess the cooling seems weak It prints each layer top of other layer(as everybody know) if bottom layer is not cool enough this could happen

Also enable z hop in travel settings that will prevent that travel movements Note: It will cost more printing time

I think you can ad 2-3 solid layers at the top of the support and make the gap 0.0mm. other solutions are also okay but this seems a bit more easier

Be sure that environment that you are printing is not very cold if it is optimal but these problems continues it is probably a problem with the circuit located at the back of the print core. In this case the print core cannot be repaired and must be changed.

Yes if you send us your stl file or at least link we can help you

You can enable coasting in cura it will stop extruding slightly before wall ends that will cause that extra filament to stay inside the walls. Also if you are using a custom printer or a marlin/repetier based printer try to calibrate the extruders step/mm setting (google) It is easy to do because some cheap printers dont give attention to these calibrations

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Hey Hey Hey guys these are complicated solutions why dont u put a support at the starting of the conic model manually

It seems like machine is over extruding or initial layer height is low check the initial layer settings extrusion height etc. be sure these settings are correct

Watch this "Ethan Makes" video to see the plugin in action:https://youtu.be/hfgeq00mI9I Usage (with default settings): Cura: Switch to the layer view and determine the layer which you want to pause at. It will pause at the beginning of the layer that you choose. From Cura's main menu, choose Extensions->Post Processing->Modify G-Ccode Click the "Add a script" button Choose "Change filament at height" Enter the desired layer in the "Pause at layer" box Choose the Pause/Change method. Read more about this below. Click the "Close" button For additional pauses, simply repeat Save the G-Code file to an SD card Pause/Change Method M25 "Pause SD Print" (Default) This method gives you the most control, but you must be printing from an SD card since it uses the SD pause command. This is the default method and the one that you should use if your printer supports it. Using this method, you resume the printer using the Resume/Continue Print function on your printer's controller. Therefore, while paused, you still have full access to other controller functions such as temperature and moving the axis. M0 "Stop" Using this method, you resume the printer simply by pressing the selection button on your controller. Since you cannot use the other controller functions while paused, this method is less ideal, however, it's supported on most printers (like the CR-10 and the Prusa MK3). Only use this method for filament changes if you can manually change the filament without needing controller functions. Works great if you just want to pause. It can also be used if you're not printing from the SD card, unlike the M25 method. M600 "Filament Change" This method simply inserts the M600 Filament Change command at the desired layer and your printer takes over from there. This gives you the least control, but if your printer has a nice implementation of M600, this is easily the simplest method if you want to change the filament. You shouldn't use this method if you just want to pause the printer (try M0 instead). The "Cool extruder on pause" feature is not compatible with multiple extruders. It won't know which extruder to heat back up or which temp to use. So, disable that feature if you're using multiple extruders. Printer (M25 Method): Print the file from the SD card The printer will pause at the designated layer, turn off the extruder heat to avoid burning the filament in the nozzle, then beep to get your attention On the printer's control box, under the SD Card menu, choose "Continue Print". The printer will lock the stepper motors then beep. If you are inserting items, now's the time to do it. When you are ready to change filament or resume, choose "Continue Print" again, and your extruder will start heating back up to temperature. Once the extruder is at temperature, the printer will lock the stepper motors then beep again. If you are changing filament, now's the time to do it. Once you've changed the filament or are ready to resume, choose "Continue Print". The plugin will immediately prime the nozzle, then beep again. Wipe the nozzle then choose "Continue Print" the final time to resume the print. In summary, here's the sequence each time you "Continue Print": Lock stepper motors (insert items) Heat up extruder (wait for it...) then lock stepper motors (change filament) Prime nozzle (wipe) Resume print If you're using the M0 method, you'll use the button on the controller to resume. If you're using the M600 method, your printer will mostly likely walk you through the process of changing the filament. IMPORTANT: If you set a value for "Move print head Z", it will attempt to raise the nozzle by that amount from the current z height, up to the max your printer allows. Leave the "Move print head Z" parameter at 5mm to move the head up 5mm from the print before parking. Setting it to 0 still raises it a minimum of 1 layer. If the current z height plus the value that you enter is less than 25mm, it will raise up to a minimum of 25mm so that you have room to work under the nozzle. If you put in a large value, you could possibly ruin your print or damage your cables (if your printer configuration reports a larger max Z than it actually allows because of cables, extruder height, etc.). Avoid using X and Y of 0 and 0 because your printer may hit your limit switches, causing it to lose a step or two. For my printer, Park X and Y of 10 and 10 puts it in the front left. 190 and 190 puts it in the back right (depends on your bed size). The M25 method only pauses if you are printing from an SD card or Octoprint. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (Cura 4, 3, or 2): To install, simply close down Cura, drop the ChangeAtHeight.py file into the Cura PostProcessingPlugin plugins folder, then restart Cura. My plugins folder, using the default path, was at: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts for Cura 4.x and 3.x and C:\Program Files\Cura 2.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts for Cura 2.x. M25 Supported: Wanhao Duplicator i3 Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Monoprice Maker Select Balco 3D Printer Balco 3D Printer Touch Prusa i3 MK2 Anet A8 (Most Repetier based firmware printers) M0 Supported CR-10 CR-10S Ender 3 Prusa i3 MK3 (Pause only) (Most Marlin based firmware printers) M600 Supported Prusa i3 MK3 Ender 3 LulzBot TAZ 5 (Some Marlin based firmware printers) Also you can learn which firmware you are using by a little google search

what do you mean by "The retraction is not -2mm but becomes -20mm"?

do u mean that before printer closes the top layers

Okay Thank all of you so much I will change my sd card.