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donogh

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Posts posted by donogh

  1. I had the impression that the S3 was able to resume after a power outage. We don’t normally have power issues but our fuse board is acting up over the past few days.

     

    So far it’s happened three times in the middle of printing, and every time it’s come back on it thinks the print is finished. 

     

    Anything that can be done, please, aside from buying a UPS? 

  2. 1 hour ago, Harll said:

    Quite interested in the cover as wel, could you post a picture of the back please?

     

    Sure! Two more photos attached

     

    25 minutes ago, dougncin said:

    I wouldn't be concerned about no fresh air intake all those little holes around both doors and seems will add up as a large opening. I have ordered the same cover but hasn't arrived yet.

     

    Sounds good! It's been printing for a couple of hours and it seems fine so far.

    Sotec3D Cover Ultimaker S3 - Underside.jpg

    Sotec3D Cover Ultimaker S3 - Back.jpg

  3. I went ahead with this. Feedback for anyone who's interested:

    • Assembly took much longer than advertised -- I'd guess 2-3 hours;
       
    • It is well designed and everything fits together well with tight tolerances;
       
    • So far I've noticed a significant reduction in noise, and almost complete elimination of odor (printing with tough PLA and PVA).
       

    My only concern is that it's fully enclosing the top of the printer -- I hadn't realized that the fan isn't flush with the back, and is actually only circulating air through the filter (with no egress aside from a few small gaps).

     

    I contacted Accante asking for some assurance about its safety.

     

    Do you think overheating could be a problem? It's made entirely of plexiglass.

    Sotec3D Cover Ultimaker S3.jpg

  4. Has anyone tried the Sotec3D cover for the S3 please? 

     

    I use the S3 in a small room and am currently employing an IQAir HealthPro 250 purifier to keep the air clean. I get the impression a cover with a filter would work better?

     

    I'm wondering if there are any downsides?

     

    Thanks!

     

     

    Ref: https://www.3djake.com/sotec3d/cover-incl-hepa-filter-for-ultimaker-s3

    https://www.crea3d.com/en/ultimaker-accessories/653-ultimaker-s3-cover-kit.html

     

     

    Edit: my understanding is there are no plans for an official cover from Ultimaker. Would happily wait for that if one is planned.

     

     

  5. I'm getting a weird squeak whenever the print head switches on the second extruder (in this case for PVA support). Here is a video with sound:

     

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8aem3tyls7wybok/S3 extruder switch squeak.MOV?dl=0

     

    Images attached also -- there is already some green 'stuff' on the gear/switch, which I presume is lubricant.

     

    How do I go about re-lubricating that part please?

     

    (As an aside it's a brand new S3, delivered Tuesday..)

    extruder switch 2.jpg

    extruder switch 1.jpg

  6. Hi Framar,

     

    That's a great suggestion, thank you. Will try the cube on CPE next.

     

    I will definitely get some 3DLac spray too. I tried both Magigoo and UHU already; UHU seemed to work better.

     

    As an aside, I tried to print this whole model at once last night: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3681512

     

    I thought I had printed it with PVA supports, but found out in the morning that I hadn't ticked on the box. Most parts still turned out okay. I'm re-printing a few now with PVA support on, but I'm seeing quite a lot of stringing of the PVA [the black PLA is fine]. See attached.

     

    Only doing skirt adhesion and using UHU this time. I'm going to let it run, see how it turns out.

     

    In general, with this 3D printing work, it seems like I'm going to be experimenting much more than I thought I'd have to! Still fun!

     

    Oh and I need to order more PLA since it's more straightforward to print with. Ordered the Ultimaker CPE thinking that the "fancy stuff" would work better !

     

    Thanks again,

    Donogh

    stringing with pva supports.jpg

  7. In the process of printing the cube, I installed Cura 4.6.1. When I started it, it prompted me that some existing settings for the printer were invalid, and it forced a reset. I'm not sure if that made any difference.

     

    Anyway, I loaded UM Tough PLA Black into core 1, and made sure it was extruding okay. With the default settings in Cura 4.6.1, using the 'Visual - Fine - 0.1mm' preset, I printed the attached file.

     

    The cube seemed to print fairly well. The attached images show the result from a few angles. I checked with a digital calipers and all sides are approximately 20mm, +/- 0.1mm basically.

     

    Seems okay?

     

    Any thoughts on where to go from here, please? I have 3 spools of CPE filament (black, white, and transparent) and would love to be able to print with those.

     

    Thanks!

    calibration cube - angle 3.jpg

    calibration cube - angle 2.jpg

    calibration cube - angle 1.jpg

    UMS3_20mmTestCube.gcode

  8. Quick update: I RTFM'd the Ultimaker CPE page and glue on the bed is recommended.

     

    I tried one more print with just glue, and the print lifted from the bed halfway through, so I aborted.

     

    It's re-printing now with glue and Adhesion ticked on in Cura, and it looks good!

     

    Nervous to add PVA into the mix; that's up next with the cog model from the toothpaste squeezer..

     

    [Diary of a 3D printing noob/new S3 user..]

    success.jpg

  9. I tried one more print with the same materials but a completely different model.

     

    You can see a video of it just after starting here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dr5s8e1i9r4czxv/bad print.MOV?dl=0

     

    Before that, while calibrating, it was continually extruding small amounts of white CPE, which I wiped off a couple of times in a bid to help it progress.

     

    I then aborted the print. Please see two more images attached: [1] the bed showing the failed start and [2] the AA core showing quite a lot of material adhered to the print head.

    clogging print head.jpg

    failed new print.jpg

  10. Hi all,

     

    I received and set up a new Ultimaker S3 yesterday.

     

    On first load of the AA 0.6 core with tough PLA black, it got stuck and wasn't extruding. So I removed it, and ran the cleaning procedure for the print core, and then it started extruding.

     

    With that 'fixed', I printed 3D Benchy at 60% scale, 0.1mm [default]. Even though I'd read it was unnecessary, I used the glue that came with the printer, and I turned off Adhesion in Cura, for a smoother print. It came out okay -- see attached. There were quite a few damaged layers, and stringing in the gaps. I was expecting better out of the box, given that I was using Ultimaker filament and it's a brand new machine. I put it down to maybe needing supports, or that I should try a finer print next time.

     

    The next test was this toothpaste squeezer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618317

     

    Decided not to use black, and instead replaced material 1 with Ultimaker CPE White. I didn't use glue on the bed, and I printed at 0.2mm with no supports. This time, there was a lot more stringing, and the cogs in the model nearly completely failed. (Not shown in the attachment is lots more stringing I'd removed after the print.)

     

    I thought, okay, my fault, I should have used supports. So I went to print just the cogs with PVA support (which had been loaded during initial set up).

     

    However, as soon as I started the print, I could see it was running into trouble quickly -- the CPE White was curling up in the print head, not adhering to the bed, and generally making a mess. It was then I noticed that the core was pretty clogged up with black PLA -- it was all over the sides of the nozzle, some had gotten under the silicone, etc. Rather than trying to clean it in situ, I replaced the core entirely with the second AA core that came with the printer.

     

    (In the third attachment, you can see there is still some black PLA residue stuck to the core I removed. I'm sure it won't be too hard to clean, and looks like the core will be okay?)

     

    This led me to my next problem: having replaced the core, the printer asked for an XY calibration. I tapped okay and let it run. The fourth attachment shows how it came out -- The Y axis calibration was deformed in the corner, and on both the X and Y axes the BB core had printed barely any of the calibration lines (with PVA, which had been extruding well earlier).

     

    I ended up abandoning calibration and went back to trying to print the cogs again.

     

    Before starting, I reloaded the materials into the cores, and made sure they were extruding successfully. The only point worth noting is that the PVA was extruding *very* slowly (though consistently).

     

    With that done I restarted the print and.. well, quickly stopped it again. Lots of stringing, bad adhesion, and I had to manually wipe the nozzle on the AA core to clear it of white CPE. (It didn't even get to extruding with the second core/PVA) -- see fifth attachment.

     

    At this point, I'm a bit stuck. I must be doing something wrong? I assume the printer uses the correct temperatures based on the selected materials? Is it just a matter of always using glue? Is it really that easy to clog a print core per with the black PVA, or was I just unlucky? Any general tips/advice, please?

     

    (I should say that I'm pretty new to 3D printing and naively[?] was expecting a more plug'n'play experience than this..)

    benchy.jpg

    toothpaste squeezer.jpg

    print core.jpg

    failed print and XY calibration.jpg

    failed print with new core.jpg

  11. Thanks for your feedback Geert.

     

    It's not a mission-critical use case for me, I'd just like to try it out. More likely to use the prints for dry food bowls, or even bowls of wrapped foods, almost like a fruit bowl. Will stay away from hot food and drinks, and direct contact between liquids and prints.

     

    From what I've read, you're absolutely right: bacteria seems to love those gaps in the plastic. I think the reason the Taulman3D filament works well is the high temperature. And I presume it's not easy to get FDA approval unless it's legit?

  12. I’m looking into food safe printing with the Ultimaker S3. 

     

    Came across Taulman3D Alloy 910, which has all the appropriate certifications. Has anyone tried it?

     

    The challenge as I see it is it’s inadvisable to print food safe materials with a brass print head, because it may contain lead.

     

    Would this work with the CC Ruby core? Most guides for food safe suggest a stainless steel print head. Don’t think there is one for the S3?

     

    Thanks!

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