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Jman15x

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Posts posted by Jman15x

  1. 1 minute ago, Carla_Birch said:

    I would say so yes, because it resets all settings, so better to do them again to be safe.

    okay, thanks. I am trying reinstalling the firmware first it is actually pretty easy can be done right from the maintenance section. Will let you know if that works and if not I'll try the system reset 

  2. My print jobs are "completing" in a matter of seconds.  When I send the job from cura to my ultimaker s5 pro bundle via Wi-Fi it starts to get ready for the print and then moments later it says "finishing". I do not get the print completion screen. I have tried printing different files, with other materials and by using a usb drive to import the file instead of the internet connection. I have also restarted both the printer and Cura to no avail . 

  3. On 2/7/2021 at 4:54 PM, RudydG said:

    I only unwind the length pva needed for the print. The rest goes back in the silica gel protected bag. Cost me some extra length, but i can use almost the whole roll. And the S5 stops when it detects end of the piece i cut.

    Btw, i use Polymaker PVA S1, never any problems since i use this method with this material.

    And, breaking pva is to dry, to flexible pva is probably to wet...

    I'm wondering how I can do this with the s5 material station. I don't want to keep wasting away my valuable PVA rolls. 

     

    On 2/6/2021 at 5:20 AM, Carla_Birch said:

    PVA is a tricky filament to get printing, it really can take in water fast. So even a brand new spool might not be as dry as you think, so it's best to always dry it out first and then print it from a dry box, something like the polybox.

     

    You can dry the PVA folllowing this guide: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012057799-How-to-dry-Ultimaker-PVA

    Or better yet get a Food Dehydrator, so you can be drying filament out why still being able to print with your printer.

     

    It's also worth cleaning the BB core out just incase you got a part blockage of the print core.

    Do you have a link for how to clean out a print core?

  4. Unfortunate this is somewhat unavoidable with FDM 3d printers. Because they do not truly print in all 3 directions simultaneously but rather stacks layers of extruded filament in a 2d plane, object orientation is everything. So you could try rotating it 90 degrees to lay it flat but then you use a lot more support, although the print should be stronger in that orientation. The easiest fix here is to reduce you layer height as much as possible and then just do a little bit of post processing. You could also try enabling ironing in cura but in my experience this makes very little if any difference. 

  5. 12 minutes ago, sj3fk3 said:

     

    Hmm, I think the abort somehow got aborted. It would be really nice to see the log files, but I'm guessing they are already rotated away by now. If you see it again, please file a rapport and send us the logfiles.

     

    Meanwhile I will see if we can reproduce this.

    I don't know how long it takes for the old files to cycle out but I do have the USB flash drive inserted 

  6. 18 hours ago, jkcz said:

    I got a few glass plates cut to fit but they aren't as accurate or as chip resistant as the originals. By the way, the first plate from our first S5 is still relatively chip free while the 2 plates that came with our second S5 chipped within the first couple months while actually seeing less prints and using mostly PLA. Both our printers are R1's and I'm still upset that I couldn't even get a glass plate as compensation, I don't know if it's just my retailer being sticky or acting on orders from Ultimaker. Not sure what new ones cost, probably not crazy expensive but still was a bit misleading.

    That's annoying. Sounds like I am out of luck then. The replacement plates are $35 plus shipping so I could just buy another one but its more the principle of the matter that bothers me. 

  7. 1 hour ago, SandervG said:

     

    Thank you for your response. I guess we're saying the same. Perhaps my framework of drawing the line between R1 and R2 left some room for R1 machines sold later, which would still qualify for a sale without a misconception of receiving an aluminum build plate. Which seems to be correct, since you mention in your first post you just stumbled upon this topic. 

     

    Please let me know if I am seeing this wrong and we can obviously look towards a resolution. Have a great day,

    I'm not the one who actually made the purchase I'm just the engineer they put in charge of using it. We definitely were under the impression that we could use either build plate. Though of course, being brand new to 3D printing there were 1,000 other things to consider and learn about so I just grew accustomed to using the single glass build plate. However, seeing this thread definitely made me realize the benefits of having a secondary build plate. Especially since there is already a small scratch in our first one. 

  8. 3 hours ago, SandervG said:

    That is not entirely correct I think. It mostly depends on if you buy an Ultimaker S5 R1 or R2, which was released early this year. The rational is that we wanted to compensate our users who bought an Ultimaker S5 with the promise of the aluminum bed. Obviously, as soon as it became painfully clear we weren't going to be able to realise that we removed it from all marketing assets. So everyone has an accurate understanding of what it is they are buying. When we Ultimaker S5 R2 was released, some time passed where it was stripped from all marketing assets so we felt the compensation was no longer necessary, because people weren't buying it anymore with the idea of getting an aluminum buildplate. The Ultimaker S5 R2 can be most easily recognised by the U on the side, instead of the Ulti-bot. 

    Thanks for the reply. I contacted my reseller and he said it was only for the early customers without any mention of the R1 vs R2. Our machine is the R1 (with the robot on the side) but it only shipped with one build plate. It was also ordered as a pro bundle, not sure if that makes a difference. 

  9. 2 minutes ago, robinmdh said:

    Thanks for the logfiles! (the ones in the e-mail)
    Using the logfiles I was able to see a bunch of  i2c head communication errors, so my thoughts go to the cable between the printhead and the printer. I think either the cable is broken or it's not plugged in properly.
    I can further support this conclusion because over the last few days I found A bunch of probing errors and min and max temp errors. The reason for those are all related to the printhead, the printcores, etc. the only thing all of those have in common is the cable from the printer to the printhead.

     

    Assuming there is an intermittent break in the cable you should be able to get a replacement from your reseller. I'm not sure how this is handled though if you will have to install it or it they will, etc...

     

    If it is just not plugged in correctly/you want to check that yourself/if you have to replace it:

    There is a retention clip/part on the printhead that needs to firmly grip the cable, this may have slipped or the cable may have broken. you can remove this by removing 2 (long) screws from the printhead, make sure the cable is firmly plugged in and not sideways. if in doubt about the cable retention you can put a bit of tape around around the cable but this shouldn't be necessary, then close the printhead back up.

    Shoot. That's not good because I already started a support ticket with ultimaker and they have shipped out a new capacitive circuit board as well as a BB 0.4 print core. Those should be arriving today. However from what you are saying it sounds like that is not likely to be the cause of the problem. 

     

    I had already checked the cable connections to the i2c print head last week and made sure it was firmly in place but I guess there could be a frayed/damaged wire or loose connection elsewhere. 

  10. I also have the ultimaker s5 pro bundle and I can attest that the G.U.I. is simply atrocious. 5.8.2 has been especially bad for me and unfortunately reverting to the previous firmware didn't help either. The issue with the infinite "finishing" phase has also occurred on my machine as well as when I've tried to abort a print. More often than not the progress indicators seem to freeze indefinitely and then you have no idea what is actually going on. The alternative to the frozen progress meter is the unclearable error. You would think with how frequently these pop up there would be a reset button but that is not the case on the vast majority of the error codes. Occasionally you will get one that you can simply acknowledge and then proceed to retry or diagnose the problem but 98% of them require you to completely power off the device. The amount of times I have hard reset this machine in the 2 months since its purchase is certainly unhealthy. 

     

    I have already submitted a support ticket and have replacement parts being shipped out, but with the the 8.5.2 firmware update I have gotten way too many errors that I never encountered before. Namely, ER45 - Capacitive sensor low performanceER29 - Print core min tempER28 - Print core max tempER31 - Print core heater errorER37 - Print head sensor errorER38 - Active leveling correction failed, nozzle offset probe failed error, and difference between detected height of both Print  Cores exceeds realistic values. Print core BB 0.4 would also start heating to max temperature as soon as the machine powered up. 

     

    Are there really this many issues with a machine that is only 2 months old? The replacement parts being sent are a new capacitive sensor board and a BB print core because the machine is still under warranty but why would those parts have gone bad already after such little use? I appreciate the "free" replacements but I would much rather not have to do the repairs at all and have a fully functioning 3D printer right out of the box. Hopefully these replacements will solve all these issues but it seems if it is only one part that is bad the error message should be the same every time. At the very least it would be less confusing that way and therefore easier to troubleshoot. 

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