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Jman15x

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  1. Unfortunate this is somewhat unavoidable with FDM 3d printers. Because they do not truly print in all 3 directions simultaneously but rather stacks layers of extruded filament in a 2d plane, object orientation is everything. So you could try rotating it 90 degrees to lay it flat but then you use a lot more support, although the print should be stronger in that orientation. The easiest fix here is to reduce you layer height as much as possible and then just do a little bit of post processing. You could also try enabling ironing in cura but in my experience this makes very little if any differen
  2. Any idea what is happening here or what could cause this to occur? I think the clear part is ultimaker PC because that is the only transparent filament I have, similarly the "white-ish" glob must be ultimaker ABS.
  3. I'm curious as to why we have a "skip cooldown" function. Every time I've tried to use it it remains greyed out so I have to wait for everything to cool down before starting another print anyways.
  4. I don't know how long it takes for the old files to cycle out but I do have the USB flash drive inserted
  5. That's annoying. Sounds like I am out of luck then. The replacement plates are $35 plus shipping so I could just buy another one but its more the principle of the matter that bothers me.
  6. I'm not the one who actually made the purchase I'm just the engineer they put in charge of using it. We definitely were under the impression that we could use either build plate. Though of course, being brand new to 3D printing there were 1,000 other things to consider and learn about so I just grew accustomed to using the single glass build plate. However, seeing this thread definitely made me realize the benefits of having a secondary build plate. Especially since there is already a small scratch in our first one.
  7. Thanks for the reply. I contacted my reseller and he said it was only for the early customers without any mention of the R1 vs R2. Our machine is the R1 (with the robot on the side) but it only shipped with one build plate. It was also ordered as a pro bundle, not sure if that makes a difference.
  8. Ugh. I have about had it with this new firmware. I was having adhesion trouble so I aborted the print, cleaned the build plate, and then walked away. About 45 minutes later I came back to this mess! There was no option to even cancel the print because apparently it retried without my approval.
  9. Just stumbled upon this thread by accident. We're supposed to get 2 glass build plate with the s5?? We just got ours a few months ago and it only came with one...
  10. How to you guys prevent this from happening when printing in TPU?
  11. I'm not sure I feel comfortable opening this up as it might void the warranty. Which also means I would also be unable to test the resistivity of the wires unless there is another way inside?
  12. Are you saying to measure them with a multimeter? If so, what sort of values should I expect? If I remove the bottom of my printer is it okay to lay it on its side?
  13. These connections look good to me. How would I go about checking the other end? Thank you for getting back to me btw 😄
  14. Shoot. That's not good because I already started a support ticket with ultimaker and they have shipped out a new capacitive circuit board as well as a BB 0.4 print core. Those should be arriving today. However from what you are saying it sounds like that is not likely to be the cause of the problem. I had already checked the cable connections to the i2c print head last week and made sure it was firmly in place but I guess there could be a frayed/damaged wire or loose connection elsewhere.
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