catalancabreado
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Posts posted by catalancabreado
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18 hours ago, gr5 said:
It's a known problem that if you use glassfill (GF) or carbonfill (CF) filaments it can grind down your feeder teeth.
Here's how you test your feeder:
insert filament only half way down the feeder. Have the feeder engage - I don't know how to do that on the connect but on some UM printers there is a MOVE command. Turn that enough for the motor to engage.
Now pull down hard on the filament. On a working, good UM2+ feeder it takes about 10-15 (about 6 kg) pounds of force to get the filament to slip through the feeder.
I recommend lifting a 10 pounds/5kg weight before and after you get the filament to slip. Or you can squeeze a weight against the filament to see if the feeder can hold the weight.
Other common problems on a UM2 that happen after 3 years:
replace the teflon part. Especially if you have been printing at temps above 210C. It may look fine but it gets soft where it touches the heater block. This part should be replaced about once every 500 hours of printing.
Check the front fan (not the side fans). Make sure it spins as soon as the nozzle is > 60C. The symptom for a broken fan is that it prints fine for 5-20 minutes and then starts to fail.
I have a list of >20 other possiblities but start with these 3.
Thank you very much for your help.
I'm definitely going to upgrade the ptfe piece. I have seen that Solex 3d makes a higher quality one (it seems to be). Do you recommend this part or the original one from Ultimaker?
On the other hand, I have been looking to update the extruder since I work with technical materials very often. I said I used 5kg of fiberglass but possibly it has another 5kg more of carbon fiber and some other abrasive material, in addition to about 15kg more of petg, pla,...
Do you know if Bondtech DDG V2 Extruder is compatible with my ultimaker 2+ connect? It is not clear to me whether it is or not with this variant. If not, it would also be worth knowing if, for example, the extruder of an S3 or S5, which I believe the gear is made of tempered steel, is plug and play and can be used.
I have verified that the fan works perfectly, although I think a cleaning would not hurt when I change the PTFE piece.
Thank you 🙂
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Good night
I have had an ultimaker 2+ connect for about 3 years and it has worked very well for me.
Recently, I have been experiencing serious problems printing parts. The part starts to print and fill correctly, but after 3 or 4 extrusion passes, the filament does not fill correctly. The walls normally extrude well.
I have checked the extruder and tensioned it. Checked and tensioned belts and lubricated all axles. Nozzle changed, same result. Another filament, same result. Factory reset same result. Other gcode same result. Clean installation of cure with the latest version, same result
Say that I have been using technical material (fiberglass) about 5kg with the ruby mouthpiece. I can see wear on the metal grinder in the extruder, although I don't know if it is enough for this to happen.
I would also be interested in improving or updating any part if necessary.
Has anyone had this problem?
Thank you
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38 minutes ago, Smithy said:
There is an upper limit for the nozzle heater in the firmware, but I am not sure whats the limit.
But increasing the inside temp will not help in my opinion, it helps against warping or layer delamination, but nothing more. And be careful that you don't go over 50°C, so fully closed is not the best choice,
Do you know how you could modify the firmware to be able to raise the temperature of the nozzle a bit?
Thanks!
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14 minutes ago, Smithy said:
You should be careful with the temperature inside your printer, because the stepper motors don't like higher temperatures. So keep the inside temperature below 50°C to be on the safe side.
Regarding your adhesion problem, can you give us more information?
Thanks for your interestI am using nylstrong with ruby nozzle 0.6mm at 260 degrees
In the upper layers, I notice that it should work at least 270 degrees to have a good finish but I can't find a way to raise the temperature of the nozzle. I thought about heating the inside of the printer to achieve something similar without increasing the temperature of the nozzle
I have the printer completely closed at the top and front, which has helped a lot with other materials such as ASA for a perfect finish.
Thanks
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I am having some small adhesion problem in the upper layers with technical materials
I wonder if anyone has tried to somehow heat the inside of the printer (I currently have it fully closed) to improve adhesion
Thanks
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In my case, this piece continues to work perfectly and I have not had any more problems since then.
As mentioned above, it happens especially in small pieces or with many shapes / fills where it is zig-zagging very quickly.
From a technical point of view, I think the interlocking system is very good since it is the same as that used in hydraulics and pneumatics, the problem is that the Ultimaker bowden has no pressure, which is why the '' knives '' I think that do not work as they should and the small movement ends up releasing the tube (it is my theory)
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If they do not have the printer completely closed they will not be able to print it without deformations
essential magigoo original for good adhesion
my results in large pieces are better with a 0.6 nozzle, I get high quality pieces, very large and good resistance, with the 0.4 nozzle I think printing large pieces is very difficult
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Hello everybody
I have an Ultimaker 2 + connect and I would like to know if there is a way to raise the temperature of the nozzle a bit
I do not want to go up to very high temperatures, with being able to climb 10 degrees up to 270 it should more than enough
Thank you
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I print ASA on a 2+ connect Ultimaker
I use nozzle 0.6 (large parts) and 0.4 ruby nozzle with good results on small parts
for good results
I have the printer fully closed, you can print with the printer open but the result will not be perfect
250º nozzle and 90 degrees for the heated bed, the fans at 0% and I always use original magigoo with edge
the ASA is made of smartfill, the resistance is very high and the parts are of very good quality, almost impossible to break
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I've only been using the piece for a few days but I haven't had any more problems at the moment
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12 hours ago, ndimensional said:
Yes, for sure .... As youcan see, it bulges a little on the right side (in the photo). Maybe it would need a little more space at that side, 1 mm or so would do it I think.... Since it was the 5th iteration and does the job I let it as it is....
I have already printed the file that attached
I have modified the piece giving 1mm more tolerance, I have also reinforced it and I have rounded all the edges.
I have printed it with ASA 100%, I recommend this infill
I have not tried it yet to see how much it improves, but it looks very good, now it fits perfectly!
I have also attached the cure file with the supports already generated and since I have printed it in case someone else needs it, it fits perfectly with my UM2 + Connect
Thank you!
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1 hour ago, ndimensional said:
Sí, seguro ... Como ves, se abulta un poco en el lado derecho (en la foto). Tal vez necesitaría un poco más de espacio en ese lado, 1 mm más o menos lo haría, creo ... Como era la quinta iteración y hace el trabajo, lo dejé como está ...
Thanks, I'm going to modify it a bit and upload a photo of how it looks in my printer and the file in case you want it or someone else needs it
Thanks!
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QuoteOn 15/5/2021 at 10:07, ndimensional said:
Hola,
Yo tuve el mismo problema. Creé un soporte bowden, para que el bowden no se mueva en la salida del alimentador. Tengo un S3, así que no sé si el soporte funcionará con su modelo. Está un poco apretado en el lado derecho con la palanca, pero hace el trabajo por mí. Lo creé con FreeCAD, así que siéntete libre de ajustarte a tus necesidades.
Para aplicar, debes quitar el bowden e insertarlo en la parte del tubo en la parte superior. Luego vuelva a colocar el bowden y finalmente deslice la pieza sobre el alimentador.
El movimiento del bowden, especialmente cuando se hacen pequeñas líneas en zigzag, está aflojando lentamente el bowden y luego la presión del alimentador y el material lo empuja fuera de su agarre. Al menos este es mi diagnóstico.
Thanks for sharing, do you have any photos mounted to give me an idea of how it looks?
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Hello good day
I have been printing these days but today when I arrived while I was printing a piece the transparent tube of the bowden where the filament is loaded has come out
I put it back on, and when printing started after 15min it came out again
I have tried a third time and have been lucky, I have not had more problems
Is there a way to ensure this with any additional pieces? Is it a common fault?
Thanks
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I am using nylstrong with ruby 0.6 tip with good results
magigoo PA should be applied, let it dry and have the entire impression at 70º hot bed. more temperature makes the part jump (in fact the manual says so).
I'm printing at 260 degrees nozzle
once the printing is finished, if you heat the bed to 100 degrees it peels off practically on its own but I still have some small flaw in the glass that I think I can fix with the new ones
Thank you
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Anyone know if it is possible?
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On 29/4/2021 at 22:01, Smithy said:
¿Qué material?
Ocurre a menudo con ToughPLA o ABS, esa es la razón por la que debe usar diferentes agentes de adhesión para diferentes materiales. Para ToughPLA utilizo una capa gruesa de pegamento, no para aumentar la adherencia sino para proteger el vidrio. Para ABS o ASA utilizo Dimafix. Pero todavía sucede de vez en cuando con ABS que mi vidrio se astilla.
I will be testing with another adhesion agent to see if it improves
He also bought ceramic glasses
Thank you
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2 minutes ago, ahoeben said:
Normalmente, querrá enfriar la cama para eliminar las huellas. El lecho se calienta para una mejor adherencia. Para impresiones rebeldes, a veces coloco la cama de vidrio (con la impresión pegada) en el congelador.
I have had trouble deleting my prints as my glass breaks
I have discovered that with magigoo I can print a bed temperature of 70º without the piece moving with nylon, and that at temperatures above 90º-100º the piece tends to detach
I wanted to test if heating as it says in the instructions the piece is easier to take off
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Good morning
Is it possible to somehow activate the heated bed to help remove the parts from the heated bed without having to send a print and pause it quickly before it starts printing?
In the menu there is an option to heat the nozzle but it does not have any for the bed
I don't know if there is a cure file or something I can send for this
Thanks
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I have run another test again and have had the same problem
Once the piece has cooled, I have put it under water so that it detaches itself and that is what I have found the glass has broken and stuck to the piece
Has anyone had this problem?
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I have finished printing successfully with 0 problems
The problem has come when trying to take off the piece since it was very well glued.
I have seen in the forum that it is recommended to put in the freezer for a while to be able to detach the piece. This has worked but when taking it off it has also taken a piece of glass!
Right now I don't really know what to do and what the problem is
Could someone tell me something about this?
Thanks
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Overcome by the pla I have tried with a new coil that had a smartfill ASA
I have used the Ultimaker default setting in cura not compatible with my printer, and I have gone down from 255º which was really very hot to 240º
I have added magigoo PA that I had bought for nylon that I also plan to use (and that I don't want to try with PLA in case it gets too hooked on the glass) and at the moment it seems to hook very well.
I have tried without magigoo and it has been impossible for me to hook something on the bed without getting up
I attach two photographs of the first bed that I notice as a kind of projections (it is not detached) that I do not know exactly if they are normal from the second layer everything disappears looking good
I think I have it well calibrated but I don't know if I'm failing in any step, the calibration card can be inserted and removed with some resistance and friction but without getting stuck
Maybe trying this second material can help me a little to find my problem
Thanks
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Hello everybody
I just bought an Ultimaker 2+ connect and I am not getting the result I want
I have been working with other types of cheap printers to date with no problems but I have bought this printer and I cannot get the PLA to stick on the hot bed
I have tried with UHU stick and all the advice in the forum but I cannot settle the piece on the first layer. I have tried practically all the temperatures of both the nozzle and the bed and it improves in some points but worsens in others
I can get to print the quality pieces since the problem is only the first layers but I suffer from warping
I am a bit worried since I have gone from a cheap Chinese printer to a Ultimaker and I thought that using their own materials would be everything much faster and easier
I have leveled the bed infinite times, closer, further without improvement
Do you recommend any type of glue for printing? What could be the problem?
Thanks
problem infill ultimaker 2+ connect
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
I have increased the extruder force to 3/4 to drive the filament.
So far this has worked for me and I have quality in extrusion again.
Anyway, I'm going to buy some things like the Bondtech extruder, the PTFE coupler and a new tube to have all the material and perform maintenance, since I really think the biggest problem is the wear on the extruder.
Thank you!