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I have increased the extruder force to 3/4 to drive the filament. So far this has worked for me and I have quality in extrusion again. Anyway, I'm going to buy some things like the Bondtech extruder, the PTFE coupler and a new tube to have all the material and perform maintenance, since I really think the biggest problem is the wear on the extruder. Thank you!

Thank you very much for your help. I'm definitely going to upgrade the ptfe piece. I have seen that Solex 3d makes a higher quality one (it seems to be). Do you recommend this part or the original one from Ultimaker? On the other hand, I have been looking to update the extruder since I work with technical materials very often. I said I used 5kg of fiberglass but possibly it has another 5kg more of carbon fiber and some other abrasive material, in addition to about 15kg more of petg, pla,... Do you know if Bondtech DDG V2 Extruder is compatible with my ultimaker 2+ connect? It is not clear to me whether it is or not with this variant. If not, it would also be worth knowing if, for example, the extruder of an S3 or S5, which I believe the gear is made of tempered steel, is plug and play and can be used. I have verified that the fan works perfectly, although I think a cleaning would not hurt when I change the PTFE piece. Thank you 🙂

Good night I have had an ultimaker 2+ connect for about 3 years and it has worked very well for me. Recently, I have been experiencing serious problems printing parts. The part starts to print and fill correctly, but after 3 or 4 extrusion passes, the filament does not fill correctly. The walls normally extrude well. I have checked the extruder and tensioned it. Checked and tensioned belts and lubricated all axles. Nozzle changed, same result. Another filament, same result. Factory reset same result. Other gcode same result. Clean installation of cure with the latest version, same result Say that I have been using technical material (fiberglass) about 5kg with the ruby mouthpiece. I can see wear on the metal grinder in the extruder, although I don't know if it is enough for this to happen. I would also be interested in improving or updating any part if necessary. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you

Do you know how you could modify the firmware to be able to raise the temperature of the nozzle a bit? Thanks!

Thanks for your interest I am using nylstrong with ruby nozzle 0.6mm at 260 degrees In the upper layers, I notice that it should work at least 270 degrees to have a good finish but I can't find a way to raise the temperature of the nozzle. I thought about heating the inside of the printer to achieve something similar without increasing the temperature of the nozzle I have the printer completely closed at the top and front, which has helped a lot with other materials such as ASA for a perfect finish. Thanks

I am having some small adhesion problem in the upper layers with technical materials I wonder if anyone has tried to somehow heat the inside of the printer (I currently have it fully closed) to improve adhesion Thanks

In my case, this piece continues to work perfectly and I have not had any more problems since then. As mentioned above, it happens especially in small pieces or with many shapes / fills where it is zig-zagging very quickly. From a technical point of view, I think the interlocking system is very good since it is the same as that used in hydraulics and pneumatics, the problem is that the Ultimaker bowden has no pressure, which is why the '' knives '' I think that do not work as they should and the small movement ends up releasing the tube (it is my theory)

If they do not have the printer completely closed they will not be able to print it without deformations essential magigoo original for good adhesion my results in large pieces are better with a 0.6 nozzle, I get high quality pieces, very large and good resistance, with the 0.4 nozzle I think printing large pieces is very difficult

Hello everybody I have an Ultimaker 2 + connect and I would like to know if there is a way to raise the temperature of the nozzle a bit I do not want to go up to very high temperatures, with being able to climb 10 degrees up to 270 it should more than enough Thank you

I print ASA on a 2+ connect Ultimaker I use nozzle 0.6 (large parts) and 0.4 ruby nozzle with good results on small parts for good results I have the printer fully closed, you can print with the printer open but the result will not be perfect 250º nozzle and 90 degrees for the heated bed, the fans at 0% and I always use original magigoo with edge the ASA is made of smartfill, the resistance is very high and the parts are of very good quality, almost impossible to break

I've only been using the piece for a few days but I haven't had any more problems at the moment

I have already printed the file that attached I have modified the piece giving 1mm more tolerance, I have also reinforced it and I have rounded all the edges. I have printed it with ASA 100%, I recommend this infill I have not tried it yet to see how much it improves, but it looks very good, now it fits perfectly! I have also attached the cure file with the supports already generated and since I have printed it in case someone else needs it, it fits perfectly with my UM2 + Connect Thank you! bowden support UM2CONNECT-S3.zip

Thanks, I'm going to modify it a bit and upload a photo of how it looks in my printer and the file in case you want it or someone else needs it Thanks!

Thanks for sharing, do you have any photos mounted to give me an idea of how it looks?

Hello good day I have been printing these days but today when I arrived while I was printing a piece the transparent tube of the bowden where the filament is loaded has come out I put it back on, and when printing started after 15min it came out again I have tried a third time and have been lucky, I have not had more problems Is there a way to ensure this with any additional pieces? Is it a common fault? Thanks

I am using nylstrong with ruby 0.6 tip with good results magigoo PA should be applied, let it dry and have the entire impression at 70º hot bed. more temperature makes the part jump (in fact the manual says so). I'm printing at 260 degrees nozzle once the printing is finished, if you heat the bed to 100 degrees it peels off practically on its own but I still have some small flaw in the glass that I think I can fix with the new ones Thank you

Anyone know if it is possible?

I will be testing with another adhesion agent to see if it improves He also bought ceramic glasses Thank you

I have had trouble deleting my prints as my glass breaks I have discovered that with magigoo I can print a bed temperature of 70º without the piece moving with nylon, and that at temperatures above 90º-100º the piece tends to detach I wanted to test if heating as it says in the instructions the piece is easier to take off

Good morning Is it possible to somehow activate the heated bed to help remove the parts from the heated bed without having to send a print and pause it quickly before it starts printing? In the menu there is an option to heat the nozzle but it does not have any for the bed I don't know if there is a cure file or something I can send for this Thanks

I have run another test again and have had the same problem Once the piece has cooled, I have put it under water so that it detaches itself and that is what I have found the glass has broken and stuck to the piece Has anyone had this problem?

I have finished printing successfully with 0 problems The problem has come when trying to take off the piece since it was very well glued. I have seen in the forum that it is recommended to put in the freezer for a while to be able to detach the piece. This has worked but when taking it off it has also taken a piece of glass! Right now I don't really know what to do and what the problem is Could someone tell me something about this? Thanks

Overcome by the pla I have tried with a new coil that had a smartfill ASA I have used the Ultimaker default setting in cura not compatible with my printer, and I have gone down from 255º which was really very hot to 240º I have added magigoo PA that I had bought for nylon that I also plan to use (and that I don't want to try with PLA in case it gets too hooked on the glass) and at the moment it seems to hook very well. I have tried without magigoo and it has been impossible for me to hook something on the bed without getting up I attach two photographs of the first bed that I notice as a kind of projections (it is not detached) that I do not know exactly if they are normal from the second layer everything disappears looking good I think I have it well calibrated but I don't know if I'm failing in any step, the calibration card can be inserted and removed with some resistance and friction but without getting stuck Maybe trying this second material can help me a little to find my problem Thanks

Hello everybody I just bought an Ultimaker 2+ connect and I am not getting the result I want I have been working with other types of cheap printers to date with no problems but I have bought this printer and I cannot get the PLA to stick on the hot bed I have tried with UHU stick and all the advice in the forum but I cannot settle the piece on the first layer. I have tried practically all the temperatures of both the nozzle and the bed and it improves in some points but worsens in others I can get to print the quality pieces since the problem is only the first layers but I suffer from warping I am a bit worried since I have gone from a cheap Chinese printer to a Ultimaker and I thought that using their own materials would be everything much faster and easier I have leveled the bed infinite times, closer, further without improvement Do you recommend any type of glue for printing? What could be the problem? Thanks