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catalancabreado

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  1. In my case, this piece continues to work perfectly and I have not had any more problems since then. As mentioned above, it happens especially in small pieces or with many shapes / fills where it is zig-zagging very quickly. From a technical point of view, I think the interlocking system is very good since it is the same as that used in hydraulics and pneumatics, the problem is that the Ultimaker bowden has no pressure, which is why the '' knives '' I think that do not work as they should and the small movement ends up releasing the tube (it is my theory)
  2. If they do not have the printer completely closed they will not be able to print it without deformations essential magigoo original for good adhesion my results in large pieces are better with a 0.6 nozzle, I get high quality pieces, very large and good resistance, with the 0.4 nozzle I think printing large pieces is very difficult
  3. Hello everybody I have an Ultimaker 2 + connect and I would like to know if there is a way to raise the temperature of the nozzle a bit I do not want to go up to very high temperatures, with being able to climb 10 degrees up to 270 it should more than enough Thank you
  4. I print ASA on a 2+ connect Ultimaker I use nozzle 0.6 (large parts) and 0.4 ruby nozzle with good results on small parts for good results I have the printer fully closed, you can print with the printer open but the result will not be perfect 250º nozzle and 90 degrees for the heated bed, the fans at 0% and I always use original magigoo with edge the ASA is made of smartfill, the resistance is very high and the parts are of very good quality, almost impossible to break
  5. I've only been using the piece for a few days but I haven't had any more problems at the moment
  6. I have already printed the file that attached I have modified the piece giving 1mm more tolerance, I have also reinforced it and I have rounded all the edges. I have printed it with ASA 100%, I recommend this infill I have not tried it yet to see how much it improves, but it looks very good, now it fits perfectly! I have also attached the cure file with the supports already generated and since I have printed it in case someone else needs it, it fits perfectly with my UM2 + Connect Thank you! bowden support UM2CONNECT-S3.zip
  7. Thanks, I'm going to modify it a bit and upload a photo of how it looks in my printer and the file in case you want it or someone else needs it Thanks!
  8. Thanks for sharing, do you have any photos mounted to give me an idea of how it looks?
  9. Hello good day I have been printing these days but today when I arrived while I was printing a piece the transparent tube of the bowden where the filament is loaded has come out I put it back on, and when printing started after 15min it came out again I have tried a third time and have been lucky, I have not had more problems Is there a way to ensure this with any additional pieces? Is it a common fault? Thanks
  10. I am using nylstrong with ruby 0.6 tip with good results magigoo PA should be applied, let it dry and have the entire impression at 70º hot bed. more temperature makes the part jump (in fact the manual says so). I'm printing at 260 degrees nozzle once the printing is finished, if you heat the bed to 100 degrees it peels off practically on its own but I still have some small flaw in the glass that I think I can fix with the new ones Thank you
  11. I will be testing with another adhesion agent to see if it improves He also bought ceramic glasses Thank you
  12. I have had trouble deleting my prints as my glass breaks I have discovered that with magigoo I can print a bed temperature of 70º without the piece moving with nylon, and that at temperatures above 90º-100º the piece tends to detach I wanted to test if heating as it says in the instructions the piece is easier to take off
  13. Good morning Is it possible to somehow activate the heated bed to help remove the parts from the heated bed without having to send a print and pause it quickly before it starts printing? In the menu there is an option to heat the nozzle but it does not have any for the bed I don't know if there is a cure file or something I can send for this Thanks
  14. I have run another test again and have had the same problem Once the piece has cooled, I have put it under water so that it detaches itself and that is what I have found the glass has broken and stuck to the piece Has anyone had this problem?
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