gdog

So if you're printer is connected to Internet, I suppose it's might be possible that someone who was trying to add their printer to their cloud made a type-o and put in the PIN for your printer. I would look around in the digital factory and try to see if there is a place to force-generate a new PIN for the printer and/or revoke all outstanding PINs.

Hopefully I have all the correct part names now, so I'm posting this up seeking advice and hoping there are many here who have experience with clogged / burned heater block / nozzle / isolator / etc. who faced a similar dilemma and will pass along their insights to me: First some background - I got an UM2+ from my local library. It had earned something of a reputation for clogged nozzles and they have an UM3 with the print cores I guess they like better so... it got dumped in the "recycle" bin where I rescued it. The hot end is a hot mess. Nozzle was hopelessly clogged and burned. Parts were missing (see photo) - nowhere to be found was the 9.4mm spacer that should have been pushing the TFM coupler down in the isolator (the spacer I'm referring to is what used to be a spring in the UM2). The TFM coupler was kind of rattling around taking a ride on the filament. Also missing were 2 of the ISO 7380 M3x4 bolts that connect the fan shroud to the hot end (i.e., there were only two of those bolts rather than 4 and things was "wiggling" a bit). In the process of disassembling the head, I pulled the thermistor/temp sensor off at the wire, as the probe was welded in the olson block and wouldn't break free even under a heat gun. Lost of charring and burned carbon deposits all over the olson block. Had to use vice grips on the isolator (also welded into the heat block) to get it loose and may have smushed it a bit. Out of the middle of the block between the isolator and the nozzle ends, I found a PLA plug/multi-color sandwich about 2-3mm thick, with leftover junk from at least 4 different clogs fix the problem- evidenced by the colors in the plug. The amazing thing... the last color printed by the machine was silver (from the nozzle clog and a cut off piece in the bowden tube), and so somehow that silver just mashed right through the pink and green glob. I suspect after the head was disassembled and the spacer + 2 screws were lost, what was going on is that when the nozzle would clog, the library would, maybe after the atomic pull didn't work, sensibly enough, just get a new nozzle, wrench off the old one, put on the new one, and try to print without really inspecting the condition in there... that's my hunch. So hopefully that was an entertaining read... now to the advice part. Given the condition of all this mess, I weighing to just go out and buy the complete hot end assembly (assuming I can find it). That means replacing fans, plates, heater probe and other stuff I don't need... but that might be near end of life anyway. One of the main reasons I'm going in that direction is that I can't seem to find anywhere to buy the 2 missing screws - other than getting a box of 1000 that I don't even know for sure are the right ones as I'm not a master of ISO jargon, nor can I find the spacer for sale by itself or with the isolator (which looks like were sold together in a "pack" but it seems to be out of stock wherever I've seen it). Being something of a dumpster diver, I'm kinda working on a low budget here. So I had a couple other thoughts -- one was to get the 2 to 2+ upgrade kit that would contain most of what I need in the hot end.... Another idea would be to go back and use a spring in the assembly like was done with the UM2 originally. That gave me another idea - getting either a complete print head assembly for the UM2 (no plus) or a hot end replacement assembly - those seem to be easier to find and cheaper than the UM2+ "hot end pack". If you can go from a UM2 to a UM2+, then why not go backwards from a UM2+ to a UM2.... I don't need to change nozzles much, I'm not going to be printing with boron-composite filaments, and even so I could always swap in an Olsen block eventually with removable nozzle later on if it turns into a hassle but then I would presumably need to find the spacer somewhere unless I keep the PTFE coupler and don't use a TFM coupler (?) Ironically one part of this assembly that looks immaculately un-damaged is the consumable the TMF coupler! Also, a couple of more questions: 1) I've seen some dual extrusion "upgrade" heads for the UM2+ that seem to be less expensive than the single extrusion basic 2+ kit. I assume that because they don't really work well and/or require other upgrades in addition to be able to actually get them to work. But if I got one of those any only use one side / one nozzle / one filament, is there any particular reason why that wouldn't work? 2) is it OK to use in this machine a cheaper 6mm bolt end, .040 nozzle that I can pick up at my local micro-center? 3) the spec on the temperature sensor says "PL100B glassfiber". If it's a PL100 sensor, then the temperature map range should be what the machine expects, so do I need the glassfiber insulation? And if so, where can I get "glassfiber" high temp wire without paying a big markup? Anyway I suppose the "right" thing to do for an aspiring maker is to take the specs for the spacer from github and go to a machine shop and have the spacer milled, then re-tap the holes in the plate to fit four randomly available "tiny" screws I can get at the hardware store for the fan shroud. But that seems kinda like way too involved and as I mentioned I'm on a dumpster diver budget. 🙂 Pics below: (L/top) TFM coupler rattling loose in print head; (R/bottom) A tasty clog sandwich... don't leave this in your hot end because a new nozzle won't last long if you do!

Yes... thank you... that's what I was looking for!

Hi - I was pointed to the Git repository as a good place to start in terms of learning about a UM2+ machine I'm trying to repair. I looked over the UM2 repo, and there was a nice PDF with parts for each module, with names and part numbers... just what I was looking for. However most of what I have to figure out how to describe is on the hot-end / heat block section which is different from the 2+ and 2, so I went to the UM2+ repo and all I see are .STEP files for each part and nothing that looks like the PDF with the parts descriptions and pictures that was in the UM2 repo. Can anybody help me find what I'm looking for. The more videos I watch it seems like people toss around a lot of different names for the same part, so before I come back with specific questions about specific parts, I want to make sure I know what I'm looking at and use the correct names for things. Thanks!

Hello - First time here, someone on r/ultimaker suggested coming here for advice. I recently acquired a used non-working UM2+ as a library cast-off. If nothing else, as I am probably one of a small handful of library users who regularly printed stuff on this machine -- mostly household repair parts for my personal use -- I figured I would poke around and see if I could get it working again. As the librarian explained it, the machine started to mess up prints by shifting the print in the x-y plane as it was being built up in the z-axis. I'm not sure if it was a gradual shift (i.e., leaning tower of Pisa) or it is was just shifitng the position of a level and breaking the job. Librarian suspected a problem with the x-y motors, although it would seem odd for both x and y motors to break a gear at the same time. The suggestion I got from reddit was belts slipping and need to be re-tensioned. Currently looking for a way to print the alignment sticks to hold the rods in place while tension the drive gears.... but would be great to know what others here think. Also, I can't really see the problem for myself because when I started to examine the hot end, it appears to be completely FUBAR'd. I plan to make a seperate thread about those issues, because it's just too much detail and what I'd really like at this point is some help assessing if this "xy shift" is likely to be an expensive fix (like replacing drive motors and stop sensors), or if perhaps it's not even an alignment issue but a bad calibration or a loose set screw causing the drive gears to move on the shaft (or some grease on the sharf under the drive-gear where grease probably shouldn't go. All input is much appreciated!