Princy557

The missing one....

I have three areas 1,2,3... Bottom left Upper Middle All show the same empty. Strange

Hi GregValiant, Duh!, thanks, staring me in the face wasn't it. As for "empty" sign..... Each extruder has a 0.4 mm nozzle chosen, but still shows up on the Cura menus (previous picture) as being Empty. I now have it printing the colour that I have chosen . WINNER Thanks again Regards

Additional info: When I print the mix is always 33%,33%,34%. Even though I have set up my three PLA Green, white ,and black. I have one heater, three extruders. Is there a profile GEEETECH A20T for the Cura 5? A better question might be. Why is my GEEETECH A20T not printing the set up colours I select. When I select the white, the item changes to white, when I select black the item changes to black ditto with the green. but dont print other than mixed ????? Regards

Using Cura 5 and GEEETECH A20T. Two main questions: 1. when I look at settings by right clicking on the Nr 1 top left of snap. All my extruders show empty. Why? What can I do about it? 2. on my A20T, even though I have chosen the suggested GREEN as shown, the actual printer gives me a mix of 33%/33%/34%. Why? and h ow to get it to show the actual chosen filament? Note: for anyone who's seen me here before. I'm on my second A20T as I had so many hothead problems with them failing I bought another. (Stupid me by the looks of it). My second one has started to show in the same way with little failures,, getting worse until the heating gives up completely. Only upside is I know the A20T inside out ha ha.

Hi GregValiant, Thanks again.... At this point in time I'm rather inclined to getting a fresh start and use what little I've learnt over the last few months from this forum. There could be all sorts of errors of my own making that have caused it. and wasting your's and others time with a project might be counter productive. I think in my own head this is the right way forward for me to go. Hope it goes away with a fresh start. Regards

HI, Well I'm at a total loss. I cleared out my own custom materials, rebooted, then created 4 new PLA, all at 205C nozzle, 55C hotbed. Created a new profile so it was all new. Set up a print and printed.....hotbed went to 60C and stayed there. Nozzle went to 200C then went to 220C then 215C where it stayed for about 10 minutes. Then it started, 200-206-215-180-190-170-180-290-200-201 and on it went until it dropped to about 165C and the mother board couldn't cope, alarmed itself and came up with a message about the heating being unable to work. Nozzle started to cool fairly rapidly. But hotbed stayed at 60C. Until I pressed the reset button. I followed this by the same job. Again I rebooted everything and made a fresh start with importing an .stl file (same as befor) TI used same profile and same material with the above settings. This time it took hotbed to 60C then dropped to 55C. Then the nozzle went to 205C, it then did an autohome, paused and up the temperature went to 215C again. Where it decided to stay and print. But not at the temperature I wanted and was setup in the materials. Should I be thinking of uninstalling the lot and starting from scratch maybe.??? Sorry it takes me so long to answer, but pain dictates if I can play or not. Regards

Hi GregValiant, Thanks for the response. Yes I have Printer setting plugin, with the correct nozzles settings as per your para above. A20T is a triple filament single nozzle. I have set all mateerials I'm using to 205 matching their normal print temp. I've searched all the setting on the advanced panel to see if I can find this 215, not showing anywhere. Not sure why i would have to ChangeAtZ as I have a fixed temp throughout print. Also this ChangeAtZ is the 5.3 experimental one on my system. It's still stuck on 215C. I have this running as print via the USB, would that make a difference? Regards

I have been trying to do some testing with a temperature tower. I have an A20T and have downloaded a couple of different temperature towers From T/Verse and another site. I have gone through my profiles and looked at every temperature setting I can find. I have also looked at the materials I have added and the setting therein. However when I attempt to print the tower it always prints at 215 for every single level. Even when it's not the temp tower whatever I print seems to have to print at 215 Any suggestions where I can look to find the (probably peronal error)? I have just set up a job and the profile says to use 205 degrees with hotbed off 55. On starting hotbed went to 60 then down to 55 (as set). But nozzle went to 205 then on up to 215. It seems the gcode is not controlling the A20T and changing the temperature during printing??? Regards

hi again thanks for reply. Can't remember the source I'm afraid. I just collected about twenty things to use for learning. But it's a six piece stegasorus. I did have all pieces (two files) on the work surface and did try to merge them. All that seemed to happen was the two grey areas melded but the pieces did nothing. Just done a recheck and stone the darn crows it worked as described. I bow down to all you experts who have brains that still work. THANKS Regards

Hi Ambassador, Thanks for reply Sorry I may have asked the question incorrectly. How do I get the parts, once printed, together? probably should have been the question Regards

Hi, Well I printed it and it worked fine. However I'd made my stack a little small so there is the odd trace of either red or green in the opposies colour mix. I have it printed but have no idea what or how to get the bits to stick together. Perfectly good hole in one piece, but the other seems to have a fully connected bar across,, obviously to go in the hole, but it's connected how the heck do you get them to merge. Can't find any reference to it Regards

Hi GregValiant, Sorry slow in responding. Once again a big thanks, the two highlighted 'switches' have made a whole lot of difference to the output. I hope to do a test piece later which confirms its OK. Regards

Greetings, I'm back after a short spell of rest. Geeetech came up with a different 'Slicer' EasyPrint3D lite. This slicer is working as expected and so far not seen a problem like on Cura 4.13. I'm going to try and build a small test cube which goes through the colours. G-code it and see what it does on both Cura and on easyprint 3D lite. Unless anyone has one already built and can let me have a copy please? Might take me a day or two. Regards

Hi GregValiant, Well yest and NO. When it arrived it would only go + on the Z-axis. So it would never actually do a home. This was reported and I then had to wait a long time for a replacement motherboard. Fitted and now I can print many things in a single colour. I'm partially disabled and I'm suffering today, so tomorrow, all being well I'll try and get a file sent in. Regards

Sorry guys (n gals), I'm back with more tales of woe! A20T CURA 4.13.1 OK I managed to fix the A20T of a friend and it's gone back. My own has now had an replaced motherboard and is 'working' ish. I'm struggling with knowing how to find the .hex update for Marlin to v 2.x I'm having issues with cura and A20T switching off the heaters before the print has started. Notes 1 I have found various references to updating firmware, but they all seen to have to have some form of compilation done to them (Visual studio), Vert seems to be the source of the code everyone likes. Just can't find the hex file. Notes 2 From some source I was given a multi-colour testfiles which printed in pink, red and green. It was a gcode file. It worked perfectly by loading it directly into Cura 4.13.1. However if I try to compile a new item and send it via usb it generally fails. It prints the outline then lo and behold if you study the g-code it's got a M104 T1 (or 0 or 2) and a temp of S0. No reason why, materials used are all set up with the correct temperatures. Cura has also got all the temperatures set correctly, including standby temeratures . all materials temperatures have been set to 200 . Procedures used All my printers are newly added, all older ones that I had messed with were removed. All materials (x4) have been set up with the correct temperatures etc. I have created a new profile and set up as per a chap who's name I've just forgotten. says to. He has three part series on YouTube. I have found a simple Chinese dragon and reduced itx&y to 50%, kept thickness the same so there were 12 layers .I use the Printer I have setup and the profile I set up. I select the dragon and click on the red PLA and then send it to USB printer. It happily warms up the bed, then the nozzle to 60 and 215, prints the skirt in white, changes to the red filament. speedily does a few rapid moves in red within the skirt.. LCD suddenly changes to 0 for nozzle temp and the temp starts dropping. followed very closely by Beep and message on the LCD saying Temperature too low., .... And folks that's where I've been for days. I've viewed the g-code and there are definately problems with this having a number of M104 Tx S0 at various (logical points). By that I mean logically places where the filament colour should be changing.. Cura, to me, seem s to have a problem. I have put Post processing scripts in. Search and replace M104 T1 S0 I then found that I needed to get rid of the references to all M104's. Once I did that it worked . I seem to be going around in circles at times. I'm hoping that the .hex firmware update might sort it all out??? Should I ditch everything and reinstall maybe? Where are the Post processing scripts kept on the system so I can scan them and check them. Regards ☹️

I'm a natural born squirral, 'if it might be useful, it just might be' ha ha It'll be safely stored. Regards

Thanks for the information. A glass bed certainly looks like the better and most stable of all bases. As I understand it, the glass shrinks just enough when it cools to break the seal between workpiece and bed. Less need for scrapers etc. Regards

What changes do I need to make to the Ender 3 Pro if I wanted to add a glass bed to it? Do I have to change the End-stop on the Z-axis? Regards

Thanks I've only just got back in. Had a bit of an urgent place to be, I'd forgotten, till my calendar reminded me. Will be on to both after late lunch. Thanks again.00 Regards

Thank you both, I will try making some adjustments later if I can work them out. I'm knocking on a bit and sometimes it takes a while for things to sink in. Be kind to old blokes week ha ha... Regards

Once again sir, a big THANK YOU.. I will download and have a look shortly. What's the difference with the full blown version. If it's available I wouldn't mind a copy. Thanks Regards

Can anyone suggest a piece of 'simple' software for sending G-code to the printer. Specifically for things like feeding filament through. I'm trying to fix (another brand A20T) a device with a problem . It's heating up but not feeding filament. Regards

Hi another newbie question. I have now printed the double sided filament holder where the two sided screw together on either side of the existing vertical. Then a small two part filament clip. Now both of these have a problem working the screwthreads together. The larger, allowed me to get some diamond files in the groves and sanpaper to reduce the size to a better fit. The clip mean while is quite tiny and no way can I work on it with micro files. Q1 Is there something wrong with the calibration of my Ender 3 Pro? Q2 How do I make or change the threads to work? I no longer have access to tap & die stuff. Regards

If it works, don't fix it! Yep Know what you mean. Regards