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Posts posted by TheMainMan
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On 5/6/2024 at 11:34 AM, fbrc8-erin said:
That's pretty high humidity. Even trying to bake it before printing, it may be too far gone. Can you tie the PVA in a knot without it breaking?
Nope. I think that spool is done for. A new one just arrived, ill give that one a shot
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1 hour ago, fbrc8-erin said:
How long has the PVA been open? How was it stored? It can have issues with too much dryness as well as too much humidity. Have you dried this same roll more than once?
Is your silicone nozzle cover installed and intact?This spool of PVA has been open for about a month, there is little left on the spool, enough for a few more prints. We have another spool on order. The rest of this spool has been very reliable.
The hygrometer in our lab reads 62% humidity, so we have been printing and storing everything at this level. The spool has been dried in the filament dryer before each print, approximately 10 times.
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5 hours ago, DCranstoun said:
Just out of curiosity, is the PVA spool you are printing with relatively new?
And do you know the relative humidity of the area around the printer? We bought sensors for our work here at our shop, and keep one in the material station empty slot that we have to ensure it is drying properly.
This spool of PVA is about a month old, there is little left on the spool, enough for a few more prints. We have another spool on order. The rest of this spool has been very reliable.
In addition, the hygrometer in our lab reads 62% humidity, so we have been printing and storing everything at this level.
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On an Ultimaker S3, I am printing a 24 hour print with PLA and PVA. I dry the PVA with the filament dryer before beginning the print. It will print well for a few hours, then the flow sensor stops the print.
I open the feeder box, clean it out, ensure the tightness aligns with the center line on the side of the feeder (and once tried printing with it set tighter, no luck), and remove the PVA filament.
I then use the hot/cold pull method to clean out the BB print core. Then I reload the PVA, and restart the print.
Once again, the PVA will print fine for a few hours, then ceases to flow out through the nozzle.
I turn the flow sensor off and sure enough, after a few hours, the PVA still ceases to extrude out of the nozzle. It seems the flow sensor is functioning correctly.
I test both feeders with PLA and an AA print core, and all goes well. I know the problem does not lie with the feeders, nor the flow sensor. Either the PVA is bad (though I do dry it and do not print or store filament in a humid environment), or the print core is bad because it stops extruding out after a few hours even after cleaning.
I feel I have tried everything. Before investing in a new BB print core, how can I resolve this issue? @Dustin, I know you are a PVA pro.
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Which settings in Cura need to be changed in order to prevent an excessive amount of burnt black crust forming on the nozzle when printing with PVA? I am using an Ultimaker S3, and only have this buildup of black debris form when printing with PVA.
How can we fix this issue without causing adhesion issues etc.?
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What are some important changes from the default settings in Cura when printing a cup with PETG and a .4 mm nozzle to close all layer gaps so it can hold water without leaking?
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Cura no longer sees our Ultimaker S3. I have tried the following to fix this:I have uninstalled Cura, then installed the latest version of CuraI installed the latest firmware on the printer itselfI deleted all printers from Cura, then added the printer to Cura again.I re-started the wi-fi setup on the printer itselfI opened Cura after turning on the printer… no luckI opened Cura before turning on the printer… no luckI rebooted our routerCura knows our printer exists, but the only option I have now is “save to disk.”“Print over network” and “print over cloud” are no longer options.In addition, I deleted the printer from the digital factory, then attempted to add the printer back to the digital factory.The printer says “connected” to TDSwifi. My computer is connected to the same wi-if network as the printer.Despite what I stated above, when I try to add the printer back to the digital factory, the printer says “connection error” and will not display a code to enter into my computer.How can I make Cura see my printer again?
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I invested in a CC 0.4 print core to print carbon fiber and glass filled filament. Which CF and GF filaments do you recommend using to print stronger objects? I saw a HUGE list of compatible materials on the Ultimaker website, but don’t know which to choose.
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Does anyone have a file for Cura of an Ultimaker S series spool holder that is long enough to hold two 1g rolls of filament rather than the spool holder that only holds two 750kg rolls?
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I invested in a CC 0.4 print core to print carbon fiber and glass filled filament. Which CF and GF filaments do you recommend using to print stronger objects? I saw a HUGE list of compatible materials on the Ultimaker website, but don’t know which to choose.
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I am using an Ultimaker S3 (two AA print cores) to print a design with orange tough PLA (on spool 1) and grey TPU90A (on spool 2), both are Polymaker filaments.
However, I told Cura and the printer's interface that I was using TPU95A because that was the only TPU option. Even when using a prime tower, the TPU immensely oozes out of nozzle 2 while nozzle 1 is active. This leaves TPU debris all over the the print itself, and the print bed.
What specific change(s) need to be made in Cura in order to prevent all the TPU oozing, which ruins the print and wastes filament?
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Does the Ultimaker S3 print head use a direct drive extruder?
If not, can one be bought and installed? -
Do you have the rest of your settings set on Fine, Extra Fine, Fast, Extra Fast, or Normal?
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On 1/20/2024 at 7:50 AM, gr5 said:
Yes, CC and DD work on the S3 (but not on the much older UM3). Regarding metal expansion pack, all I know is what this says:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337928794
Does the DD print core compliment the CC print core similarly to how the BB compliments the AA? I read the DD print core is for support and CC is for composite material.
If the CC and DD are indeed meant to be used together, but DD is not available in the US, what could one use to replace the function of the DD print core when using the CC print core in an Ultimaker?
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Does the DD print core compliment the CC print core similarly to how the BB compliments the AA? I read the DD print core is for support and CC is for composite material.
If the CC and DD are indeed meant to be used together, but DD is not available in the US, what could one use to replace the function of the DD print core when using the CC print core in an Ultimaker?
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I regularly use the AA and BB print cores in my Ultimaker S3 printer.
Are CC and DD print cores compatible with the S3?
Also, would I be able to print with metal on my S3 after purchasing the metal expansion pack?
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What are the best settings for the smoothest finish on the final layer of a flat print? Checking "enable ironing" in Cura has not provided a consistently smooth top layer.
PVA Issue
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I tried a different brand of PVA, it would not come out of the nozzle at all.
So I loaded a brand new, mint condition BB print core. And loaded a brand new, mint condition spool of PVA from a supplier that has served us well in the past. Sure enough, the PVA will print fine for a few hours, then ceases to flow out through the nozzle, stopping the print. What else can I possibly do to get PVA working again after three weeks of troubleshooting?
I have attached the project file if that helps. @Dustin
UMS3_PN 000434054 rev 2.3mf