newdeal99

I discovered the problem. The blue plastic tube in my hot end was getting damaged. Not sure how that happens but I assume heat? The hole in the tube was likely double the size it was originally at the top and the end by the nozzle was basically paper thin and kind of arched in shape on two sides of the tube. Replaced with a new hot end and my problem is gone. I turned the heat down to 245 to hopefully be kinder on the tube and it's printing great. I also dried 7g of water from my roll of filament but that didn't help the print, changing the hot end did. Flow is better, prints are smooth again.

So I am trying to print this flared fitting that I designed. I scaled it down to fine tune some settings and got it pretty good I think (Elegy rapid PETG). I ran the filament out in testing and then tried to print a much larger one (8" across vs like 1.5") and it is turning out like crap. The first one the external surface didn't look good. I thought it was maybe because there is cubic infill and I was printing infill first to help with overhangs. It seemed like the corner of the infill was poking into the wall a bit and leaving a small blob. I tried reducing infill overlap, didn't do it, increased the walls from 3 to 4, didn't help, so then I just gave up and set it to print infill after perimeters and it still didn't look good. So then I changed it to print with 100% circumferential infill which would be similar to the small one since it was just perimeters as it was too thin for infill anyway. With that the surface looked a bit better but the edge of the print looks like total crap and I see a ton of crusty blobs and voids when looking at the edge. I stopped the print and thought I would ask here for help. Again the small one printed with the same settings and was fine. Is it wet filament? I am a beginner and so trying to figure things out. Hopefully the photos show the print I was happy with and the one I wasn't adequately.

I will have to look in to doing that for sure. Unfortunately I started a print last night to test and still had a lot of stringing compared to Pursa slicer so I cancelled the print part way through. I could take photos of the bit of the part that did print this time if that would be helpful. I had also changed some defaults to be closer to what Prusa has (changed the flow to 95%, changed line width to 0.45, set the temp to 245 and fan to 100)

thanks for the help guys, not sure it will print without stringing though on the Cura slicer still. I did some playing around with pursa and changed my extrusion multiplier to 0.95, temp to 245 and fan to 100 and it seemed to help print even better. I think maybe I had the temp low because the fan was low and having the fan low was a problem for picking up still too soft material on the way over it. I also changed the minimum layer height to 0.2 from 0.3 it didn't really seem to effect the print time going to the larger layer it seemed, not sure why. Maybe I should try those settings with Cura and see if it helps.

here we go all fixed up outer flare openscad.stl

I know nothing about coding but I got it made in OpenSCAD with a small amount of messing around by making a 2d shape and then doing a rotational extrusion. Really it isn't very many lines but I am not quite sure how to get the 8 holes into it yet.

how did you make my primitive model into that nice smooth surface? Like I said I am a newbie and want to just make a program so that I can make these in any size that I can print and my code does that and I can make it much nicer in regular tinkercad than I can in code blocks but then it doesn't generate itself. Even with tinkercad it still isn't as smooth as what you show by any means

yeah they do here is the file. Prusa Outer Flare.3mf

I will mention that Prusa is printing this ok with the same speed settings as that

thanks for the input I will look into all of this. The speed I just copied over from the Anycubic slicer. Seems to print ok at this speed but I can always turn it down via software or in the interface of the printer switch from standard to stable which seems to cut the speed considerably. Yes the support removal isn't easy for sure. Seems to come off ok by putting a knife into the interface all the way around the edge. The reason that the part is so messed up is because it is generated in code from tinkercad codeblocks. This is the smoothest I can get it because I want to enter 3 parameters, the inside dimension of the hole, the outside dimension of the hole, and the radius of the curve and have it generate the shape. Unfortunately in code blocks you can't get custom shapes only shapes from a preselected list so no HD torus only the regular low def torus which is why the outside of the flare has fewer sides. To get this to be even this clean while still being under the number of shapes allowable (200) I am generating 180 spheres instead of 1 low def torus, rotating them in an arc, generating a ring to cut out the underside and some cylinders, holes etc and merging them all together. Thats why the inside of the flare has better definition than the outside. The way I can get it cleaner is to take the entire thing (except the holes in the mounting lip) and rotating it like 12 times by 1 degree and merging that together but code blocks can't handle that many items because even after they are merged each rotation thinks it is another 196 objects and not 1 merged object and so it exceeds the thousands of objects very quickly. Those seams are all generated because the rings have 64 sides, the torus has only 24 sides, and the flare has like 180 sides so the corners can't line up but in the final print it really isn't bad. I do wish that code blocks could allow me to make it cleaner because the seams go away if I rotate it multiple times by 1 degree each time and merge them together. I can manually do it in tinkercad after exporting from code blocks but this is all just in the testing phase currently so doing that isn't worth the time. I would really like to know how to get rid of that scalloped edge of the print that you pointed out. I expect it is because of the geometry of the object. I believe I have retraction in Prusa set to 2.5mm at 80mm/s. I don't mind wasting filament because I need it to be pretty strong but I hate wasting filament on the supports which is why conical supports is nice.

Here is the project file, sorry I didn't take photos of the strings and I brushed them all away so now it's just a poor surface and I reprinted it using the purse slicer. The roll was brand new and the same roll prints fine with the purse slicer file which seems to use basically the same settings. I attached the project file and like I said there are no travels inside the part but yet a ton of strings. I tried printing outside to inside and inside to outside and both were poor. I tried grid infill and line infill and both were poor also. Cura outer flare.3mf

I am a newbie to printing, I am trying to print something that is circular and empty in the middle. I have sent a good amount of time playing with settings but I am having a problem and I feel like there is likely one setting that I can change that would help me. The problem is only with Cura, with Prusa slicer the prints are fine. The problem that I am having is that there is a huge amount of stringing on the internal of the circle that I am printing. There is NO TRAVEL through the middle of the circle. The outside of the circle prints fine, around the circle is another circle which is the support ring and it also prints fine and without stringing. Only the inside of my part is affected and the amount of stringing is huge. Since there is no travel through there I am certain that the head is grabbing little tiny bits and dragging them as it travels around the circle until eventually it fuses to the other side and breaks free from the head. Prusa doesn't so that at all but I would rather use Cura due to conical supports and coasting. The prints with Prusa are nearly perfect other than huge support structures and larger Z seams. The prints with basically the same settings on Cura are ruined by all the zits and stringing on that internal surface. I have tried everything I can think of (changing the order of printing, changing temps, speeds, playing with settings etc). This is on a Kobra 2 max with Elegy rapid PETG filament. Both Prusa and Cura I am using variable layer thickness from 0.3mm to 0.1mm with 0.3 at the base and then tapering to 0.1 as it nears the top layers