mr_seeker
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Posts posted by mr_seeker
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Its probably because you are not running the latest java version. Check in terminal: "java --version", it should be 1.6.0_25 or higher (doing this out of my mind, but I do know it works with 1.6.0_31).
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Mac users should use the LATEST version of Java. You can check this by running "java --version" in the terminal. This is not a bug, but something that is making me annoyed like hell (mac is running their OWN version of java, which cant be included in the software)
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Hi everyone!
My name's Steven (pleased to meet you all!) and I've been looking into the 3D printer market for a couple of months now, and after lots of research I've settled on the Ultimaker - it's mix of affordability and print resolution seems to be exactly what I'm after. I'm looking at using the Ultimaker to make my own wargaming miniatures (much like Shaun - another user on this forum). They will be about 28mm high and reasonably fine detail (which is why I'm keen on the Ultimaker - the 0.1mm vertical resolution seems much better for this sort of thing than the 0.3mm resolution that other printers provide).
I just have a couple of questions before I get started.
1: Which 3D graphic programs should I use with the Ultimaker? I want to print a lot of small models of people, is Poser going to work? How hard is it to export files between different graphics programs? Is it possible to just plug-and-print like with a lot of 2D printers?
2: Is the Ultimaker difficult to assemble? I have no experience with electronics, but if it's just a matter of following a set of assembly instructions then I won't have any difficulty. If it involves wiring up electronics or soldering then it's probably a little beyond my skills.
3: A very simple question - the printer had 3 planes: X, Y and Z. X and Y are horizontal, Z is vertical, correct?
Thanks!
Hi steven!
1: You can use any 3D program you like, as long as it exports in mm and can export "STL" files. Its not possible to plug-and-print right now, but you can use a program like ReplicatorG and Cura to do this.
2. I have seen people without any technological background putting an Ultimaker together. There is a little bit of science involved, but everyone with a high school diplom and some understanding of physics should be capable of putting it together in a working day (and running it on day 2).
3. Yes. What I use is something I prefer to call "The rule of Thumb": Using your left hand, point your index finger forward (Y axis), your middle finger 90 degrees (X axis) and your thumb up (Z-axis). The rest of your hand is the center.
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From what I can see, its a short-circuit or the amplifier died. Try disconnecting the sensor, and tell me what you get then between the yellow & black line. If its still the same voltage, then your amplifier fried. You can usually get a free replacement part from UM.
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Add your country code (2 letter code) for international orders.
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Ok at this stage I have not really a good way to meassure the temperature, but I will do. How would I lower the drive current though. Is there a firmware/software way to do this?
No, there is not unfortunately, else I would add some "current sensing" to the machine
Best is to check the wiki. There is something about the pot settings on your stepper driver. Normally when you get them from Ultimaker they are fully tested and dont need adjustments.
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I checked it, its 1.2 ohm. Like I said before, plug the arduino in, then measure the voltage between the yellow and black wire, and tell me what it gives.
BTW: Can you give me a picture of your printhead? It is definately NOT the component you showed...
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Measuring the amount of ohms without using specialised equipment wont help. Try measuring the voltage between the yellow and black wire. It should read 200mV (0.2V).
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I will try to compile my own Marlin version once my Ulticontroller arrives (I think I need anyway as SD cards are not natively supported).
The Cura RC2/3/4 firmware supports the UltiController out of the box. And I think the RepG34 firmware also does this.
I can confirm that Marlin 1.0 natively supports the UltiController.
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The baud rates are as follows:
5D firmware: 57600
Sprinter/Marlin: 115200
Printrun/Cura: 250000
You can better stick with repG or printrun instead of netfabb, but if you set the baud rate to the following in netfabb it will print.
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MAXTEMP means that there is a shortcut or you connected the cable wrong. It has to do everything with the temperature sensor.
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I finally got pictures of someone who bought an ultimaker clone from ebay, and I was shocked (literally)!
Some of the things I saw:
- Really bad lasercutting.
- poor cable design
- Doesnt function properly under marlin (lot of errors)
- Old-fashioned PCB without any Ultimaker logo on it (which means they got the designs from the open-source variation, which has some small differences compared to the official UM RAMPS board).
- No support at ALL (thats why he came to me)
- Cheap plastic covering
- Cheap motors
- No overheating protection on the stepper drivers.
- Wrong kind of tape
All of it spelled "chinese crap". Note of warning: Only buy a machine from Ultimaker.com, they dont have any resellers (yet).
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Yes. The speed is in mm/min, so 9000 = 150mm/s.
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Daid is a dutchie :lol:
Florian is at the Ultimaker HQ working on the Ultimaker, thats all I know.
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Use ReplicatorG 35.
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My guess: Use ReplicatorG 35. Its a common bug and a darn annoying one: "Manual extrusion in control panel does not work due to missing toolhead".
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If you think its a software problem, try running it with log settings to "ALL" or in "terminal/commandline".
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And no, you cannot achieve the same type of resolution and prints that these types of printers produce no matter how much you tinker with your Ultimaker.
Well, those machines have to get < 10 micron layer height before I say "ok, I cant do that"
And I can get rid of stringing. What I cant do is print upside down (yet). -
The worst thing what happened was that the PEEK started to melt, and that was because I was using old firmware...
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Let me think:
- Printing does NOT work with repG? Does it turn the extruder motor at all?
- Are you running the latest Soft- and firmware? (RepG35 & Marlin). Please try to use the official Ultimaker Firmware.
- Did you try changing the stepper motor to another pin? (X instead of E) and does it turn?
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Another question, my extruder keeps jamming up with melted plastic in the bowden tube from the back pressure of the extrusion process any ideas? I've increase the temp slowed down the extruder feed rate with no luck. What do you think is happening here?
3 things:
1. You are printing too warm.
2. You are printing too slow.
3. Your nozzle has a jam.
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Hi,
Just something to think about:
Yesterday, my i did my first long print 20+ hours ultra q.
At some point in the night, my #}%^^%# computer decided it was time to go to sleep and while running printrun and printing it shut down.
The hot end was stopped on top of my model and melted down on in... Now that is not my main concern (although it was printing for over 16 hours) my concern is that the hotend without pc is still 230 degrees! Risk of fire? I am not sure, can anyone tell me?
I hope my preorded ultipanel is the solution to this... But the wait on that... +3 weeks and counting
Thx
Risk of fire: No. I have seen prints from 48h without any catching fire. But its good to have some sort of auto-shutdown just in case.
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well the resin prices on this project are less than $100/kg
And PLA is less than $30/kg and I can achieve the same kind of quality (with a bit of patience). Also note that the resin is UV-curing, as soon as you put a little bit of light in it, it will harden up (and possibly ruin your machine if you are not careful). I had a similar experience with PLA that would dissolve under light, and that stuff literally broke down in front of my eyes.
Too experimental for public usage.
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Well,
I would recommend to do the following:
- Start replicatorG without plugging the USB cable in the Ultimaker (this will start repG without trying to connect & freezing problems)
- Plug the USB in the machine
- Go to Machine, Connection and select the right port.
- Go to Machine, Upload new Firmware
- Install the latest firmware (Marlin 1.0 or later)
- Go to Machine Type, Driver and select Marlin
- Press Connect
If replicatorG still doesnt turn green, try the following:
- Go to File, Preferences
- In the tab "Advanced", select "ALL" as debugging level
- Try to "turn on" the machine.
- Report any error messages you see popping up.
Need to Cancel, but Ultimaker lost my order while happily taking my money!
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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Its not their problem, its the whole thing around it. As soon as the seller presses "refund" on the paypal website, there is a whole process started at paypal that gives a "bad user feedback" to Ultimaker, which ultimaker has to respond with putting at least 10% of their 3-month income to paypal as a "guarantee", and some other crazy loopholes that made companies wish customers never used paypal in the first place.
I had similar experiences with paypal before: Merchant accounts frozen for over 3 months (and no way to get a refund), credit card companies blocking accounts due to high paypal amounts going in/out, accidental refunds causing the whole sharingans of idiocy going skyhigh. One refund caused a small indie developer team to almost go bankrupt (Project Zomboid). As soon as a customer presses the "refund" button, the seller will end up in a kafka loop of pointless calling to an answering machine, which they would like to prevent.
Also, all dutch companies have a 7 day guaranteed refund after sale. Best is to send a message that you want a refund, make sure you mention that you give them 14 days to reply (standard time in here) and then file a claim at paypal stating that they never delivered the goods.
Refunds can take upto 3 months at paypal. Its not the seller's fault, its the anti-fraud system of paypal. I only had to do 2 refunds, which took around a week or 2 to show up on my paypal account (not on my bank account).