mr_seeker
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Posts posted by mr_seeker
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The missing electronics air duct shouldnt be a big problem for the steppers when they still have cooling fans on then. However, they will overheat much less if you add air to the mix. I know that on thingiverse you can find an older lasercut design of the machine, maybe you can find the cooling duct there. Or contact support, tell them that you are missing one and they will send you a replacement.
PS: Do you have a kit with the new "quality label"? The number on there can help finding the person responsible for your missing part.
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the Marlin that SkeinPyPy is using wont work on repG, unless you set the baudrate to 250000, just to let you guys know.
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The arduino runs at the following baud rates:
9600 for firmware updates (I think, not sure)
57600 for 5D firmware (stock)
115200 for Marlin/Sprinter (build3 in repG works best)
250000 for Marlin V1+ (does not work with repG 26)
Just check if you have the correct baud rates. Do NOT alter the baud rate in the system settings.
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100001511
Order Date: February 13th 2012
6 weeks now :( very sad. :(
If ultimaker has a parts list, maybe I could source it on my end and send it to them!
Hate waiting around...
Hmm, normally they should have sent your order by now. Is there anything special about your order? Extra spools or spare parts? Or they simply forgot to send you the tracking number.
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The "Extruder On" command is something that I frown upon. Its quite laggy, and was originally designed for makerbot/BfB. Erik made it work with the Ultimaker, but when I check it, it means a lot of sending G1 commands.
What I do (and I think its much better) is just turning off the stepper motors and turning the wheel by hand. Much easier & much more control.
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1. Make sure you can push the filament in by hand (if the temperature is too low, it wont print at all.) Just unlock the screw mechanism, and push the filament by hand. If nothing gets out, then something is wrong with your setup.
2. If pushing by hand works, but not mechanically, then look at your filament. Sometimes, the filament tends to get "grinded", this means that the extruder was running too fast or the extrusion was too cold. This can cause the extruder to "grind" the filament off. Just cut the end off, and it should work smoothly again.
3. Turn the adjustment screw a bit more.
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Did i ask for help? Nope i asked if anyone had a working Ultimaker.
I got. And I am pretty sure, there are plenty other working ones around... :ugeek:
me = looking at 4 fully functional ultimakers
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No, this was an "home Z-axis" problem. I dont use skeinforge
EDIT: I printed this on a machine with older firmware, seems that my Z+5 caused it to home the Z-axis...
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Hoover Tower (failed print).
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What layer size are you actually using? 0.05mm is my recommended setting, if you go lower to 0.0075 (which I got achieved) it would only result in a lot of fluff and a lot of failed prints.
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Have you checked your code? I know people that kept shouting about "my extruder never does anything", but in the end it was just a simple piece of code that kept failing:
G1 F0.0 (aka. do not use stepper motors to move). Just check if there is anything saying 0.0, that could be the cause of your problems.
About the non-sticking issue, what I do (especially with prints like this) is first level the bed, then slowly turn the bed up until you can see that the hotend is actually pushing the layer on the bed, instead of depositing it on top. This way I am sure that the layers are actually sticking to the bed and wont come off while printing.
Try printing this testcube:
It will make 2 spins to get the flow going before actually building the object, make sure that when its doing its first 2 turns that the filament is sticking to the bed. After that, you should get a good test cube. If not, please post a picture of what goes wrong.
Tips to remember:
Layer not sticking to bed: Turn the Z-axis screw left.
Nothing gets deposited, but the extruder screw is turning: Turn the Z-axis screw right, until you see filament getting deposited.
Another problem that I recently found out is that some people experience problems with their filament. What filament are you using?
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Download python 2.7, that will solve your problem.
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replicatorG = software to connect to the ultimaker, doesnt use STL files but G-code. I think you were referring here to skeinforge, its used by replicatorG to slice 3d objects into G-code.
But what you were saying is totally right.
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I heard that problem before from someone, so I asked for the g-code and tried the same print. Didnt had any problems with it. Same firmware, so I am thinking it has something to do with the steppers not getting enough power or some other problem.
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Hello,
Has anyone printed in ABS, and if so, what are your settings? Wanted to print some prints in ABS (PLA got boring after a while).
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Just to be sure that it is not the firmware, can you use the Marlin Build 3 that is included in the repG software? I am possibly thinking that the endstop switches are not correct in your firmware.
Just closing & restarting repG only wont help, you need to physically disconnect the Ultimaker to make sure its reset (its what I call a hard reset, only need to do this when the Arduino goes into panic mode).
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I use slic3r, and I use the following settings:
bottom_layer_speed_ratio = 0.5duplicate_distance = 6duplicate_x = 1duplicate_y = 1end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperatureG1 Z+30 F3000;move Z up a bit and retract filament by 5mmG28 X0 Y0; home X axis and Y axisM84 ; disable motorsM107 ; turn fan offfilament_diameter = 2.95extrusion_multiplier = 1fill_angle = 45fill_density = 0.2fill_pattern = rectilinearfirst_layer_height_ratio = 1infill_every_layers = 1layer_height = 0.1nozzle_diameter = 0.4perimeter_feed_rate = 50perimeters = 2print_center = 100,100print_feed_rate = 50retract_before_travel = 0retract_length = 0retract_lift = 0retract_restart_extra = 0retract_speed = 40rotate = 0scale = 1skirt_distance = 20skirt_height = 1skirts = 2solid_fill_pattern = rectilinearsolid_layers = 4start_gcode = M92 X78.7402 Y78.7402 E926G28 ; home all axesM106 ; turn fan ontemperature = 220travel_feed_rate = 150use_relative_e_distances = 0z_offset = 0acceleration = 0
If you can print with these settings, then I am sure you can get a good and decent print
Onliest thing you need to change is the layer height. I could get up to 0.015, but then you manually need to make it stick to the bed. 0.05 is usually enough for high-quality prints. Note that it doesnt prevent it from stringing.
If you use skeinforge, try printing with the profiles that came with the repG software. They should work properly.
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Seems they sent you a motherboard that hasnt been tested. The tested motherboards are always supplied with stepper motors. Contact support, they can help you further.
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I looked and 3D printing with professional systems is too expensive. Hence I think "classic" moulding is only solution at the moment. But still I need to make prototypes to test all different products. Hence can somebody help me and print one of my product with Ultimaker to show how it looks like? I have designed my products in Google Sketchup.
Regards,
Madis
If you can export it to STL (which is what most people use here) and send a link, then someone here will try to print it for you.
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I have printed my first test object and i'd like to get some suggestions to adjust the settings. There are some things that have an obvious cause, but other do not or the solution is not obvious to me so your opinion would be appreciated.
So, here is my print, a 20x20x10 solid printed with 0.4mm layers, 3 walls, infill 50%, PLA 230°C:
The problems are:
1) The corners have some material in excess. This happens when the layers finishes and the Z is moved to the next position, the extruder seems to keep jamming. The retraction is already set to 3 mm. Not sure what i should do...
2) Some times layers do not stick together. I think this may be caused by (1) or too little material extruded.
3) The top is not filled to 100%. This is quite strange, too much material is missing, i'd say 30-40%
Other data:
Slicer: Slic3r
Firmware: Marlin generated with BuildMeMarlin (awesome work Daid!), default settings exept baudrate/endswitches
Control: Printer Interface bundled with SkeinPyPy
The PLA is metal grey supplied with the kit, the label indicates temperature >=220°C
I don't have the proper belts tension yet, i'll print the tensioners soon, but i don't think this is causing big issues right now apart low precision.
There are just 2 things you need to change:
filament_diameter = 2.94 (best is if you measure the filament, it is not exactly 3mm)
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
Then I can guarantee an almost perfect print
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Can you put your google+ page in here, or at least a way to quickly locate you? Searching "brictone" only rendered a justin.tv show.
EDIT: Found you when searching your real name and location. How I love google search
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Is the ultimaker placed on a steel table? Maybe the connection between the motherboard & the temp sensor could also be the problem (considering that you didnt had this problem when you placed it sideways).
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Have you tried printing out my cube? It should start by homing to a corner, then it prints out 2 outlines (to make sure the PLA sticks to the bed and to get the flow going) and after it should start printing. Its optimized for the ultimaker.
If this will still cause problems, try to manual feed the machine, see if the PLA goes out of the nozzle. If that doesnt work, its certainly something with the heat or feed.
Noob problem - installing skeinpypy + marlin
in UltiMaker Cura
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Its ACM, I am sure about it. Running linux myself. Didnt tried skeinpypy, but I do know that you need the right firmware before it works.