mr_seeker
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Posts posted by mr_seeker
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The settings in repG are set at 150mm/s maximum feedrate. You can safely ignore it (by adjusting the ultimaker.xml file in the folder machines) but notice that at really high speeds, marlin will kick in.
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I am using multiple extruders, and never broke repG... Dunno what special code you are trying to implement, but I do know that repG will accept the code fine (however, you need to know that it wont read the second extruder temp).
EDIT: Note that repG reads both heads one at a time using T0 and T1...
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I found a good suggestion for the blank preview, and it has to do with settings... What do you use for showing the 3d model daid? Same thing also happens in repG, and has all to do with the wrong version of Java...
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20mb works fine in repG, but if you go above 50mb it will slow down significally due to the amount that has to be loaded into the memory (at that time I think you should stick with the ultipanel)
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Try loosening the motors, then put pressure on them while retightening the bolts. This should tighten the small belts and keep tension on them.
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And try installing it manually, instead of automatically search for it. Then it will only look for windows drivers, and not Arduino drivers.
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The 250000 baudrate will work too, however you need to select "experimental profiles" in the settings screen, and use "experimental Sprinter/Marlin" for machine (has different baud rate).
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I do want to propose the possibility to use multiple extruders at once. For example, E controls the current selected extruder, but A/B/C/D control extruder 1/2/3/4. This enables you to retract 1 extruder while pushing in filament in the other. Or print 2 of the same objects at once (object needs to be smaller then the distance between the nozzles)
Agreed. However, do note that the ABCD values are not the best way to do this. Better is to keep as much standard as possible, using multiple E-values and multiple F-values, instead of using A-D.
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Mayor difference is the question if dual extrusion should be supported firmware side or software side... Which makes the difference in the way gcode is made.
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It works in repG, but thats all. However, you need to do some adjustments in firmware.
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Is the lead screw straight? Try rolling it on a flat surface.
There has been a replacement part 8B sent from UM. Normally you need 2 parts 8B, but sometimes they ship with a spare part (with a drilled hole).
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repG is just warning you that the feedrate goes faster than 150mm/s, which is set as a recommended speed limit for the machine. It just warns you, you can easely bypass this error and print without problems.
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Same problem, fixing it by checking if the belts are tight enough. Most of the time its the belts coming from the motors to the axes that were getting loose.
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I finally printed a flex object with a stock UM.
My settings:
repG35 & Slic3r. Using profile "Normal print", 25% speed and 230C. A lot hotter than expected, but it came out quite nicely... The walls aint really flexible, but the support inside is. Its a bit like molding rubber...
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Bit goofing around
But I do know that the arduino can handle a max of 20V. So you need some sort of divider or voltage regulator to make sure that the arduino doesnt get a 24V kick...
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I am a programmer myself, do a lot with electronics, but I think even my mum can put it together with some little advice from me
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Well, the machine is supplied with 19V. More than 20V and you are sure to fry the arduino mainboard.
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Or just put a power resistor in between... Christmas lights should do
Or stay away from electronics if you are not sure what you are doing.
I know what I am doing: Making sure that there is no "magic smoke" coming out of the machine
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Yes, I had one of the early runs of the Ultimaker. (had just gone through the infamous Botmill Mendel hell some here may be familiar with and, wanting more working volume than the Makerbot, gave up on US kits...)
I haven't seen a specific Ultimaker-endorsed version of ReplicatorG 26 on the support web site. Have people generally moved beyond the Ultimaker-specific versions? I know the current version is 34, but the last time I tried using a version that wasn't Ultimaker-specific it proved futile. All flavors (Windows, Linux, Mac) seemed to be unable to talk to the machine--though I think I may have still been using the 1280 controller.
I'm not seeing any specific damage to the insulation, but most of that near the heater block is concealed by that metallic braid jacket, and clearly part of that is frayed. I'm inclined to agree with the conclusion of a short in the thermocouple. Is this a more-or-less standard form for these on the electronics market or a custom made one? Can I order this in the US from a typical electronic supplier or must I order a replacement from the Ultimaker store?
Thanks a lot for the helpful feedback, folks. I feel a bit more encouraged.
If you have bought the machine from their webstore, its an 2560. If you have got it from their workshops, contact Harma.
ReplicatorG from replicat.org is makerbot flavored... They say they "support" Ultimakers, but I wouldnt count on it (knowing that their development cycle stopped a long time ago). Thats why Ultimaker is shipping their own software.
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Or just put a power resistor in between... Christmas lights should do
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Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156
How is Flexible PLA different from normal PLA (besides being flexible?)? And where did you purchase flexible pla?
Its like PVA: A horror for beginners. Its pretty flexible and bendable, and can be squashed together (so you need to get a really good force to get it working). And you can purchase flex pla from Ultimaker.
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Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer.
Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.
Same, but most of the time I just rip off the blue tape...
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Try adding M92 E14 to the start of your gcode, will fix most problems with spinning extruders.
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The extrusion feedrate is turned off, this is not a bug but something that wasnt working properly. The temperature can be adjusted without the slider, because the slider was messing up the program.
Travel feedrate is the speed where its not extruding anything, feedrate is the speed when extruding.
Extruder motor pushes filament too fast in a wrong way
in UltiMaker Cura
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Put M92 E14 in front of your print, netfabb doesnt print volumetric (yet).