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bradley

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Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
    Ultimaker Original
  1. Some clone boards, I don't believe, respond to these settings.
  2. Since you mention you have a clone board, are you sure that the step settings are correct for each of the motors? I experienced a similar problem with a clone board where some of the stepper motors had the wrong step settings (controlled by jumpers or switches on the clone board). Hope that helps *B
  3. I'm printing PLA. You suggest a good idea. I'll try it, thanks. I'm finding with each round of tuning, a lot of the issues I've been seeing are going away. I didn't realize how much tuning I would need to do. *B
  4. I am, however, seeing another an issue which I could use some guidance on: The initial priming extrusions seem to get dragged into the model on the first layer. Any way for the the heads to wipe them/ push them away, rather than dragging them in? I noticed in the calibration print, there is a wiping motion of extruder 2. Any way to get that to happen during extruder changes on a live print? Thanks in advance, *B
  5. Ok, I another look and discovered the problem. It isn't a bug in the firmware. It's operator error via a missing step. I did not realize that many settings in cura need to set for the individual extruders or "copied" to all extruders. Upon copying those unshared settings to all extruders, the problem was solved. Thanks to all that commented. *B
  6. Yes I will when I’m back from my business trip in Europe
  7. Thanks for your response. I am using the most up to date definition files from github. I typically print at 210 degrees. What I am seeing is the first extruder coming right up to 210 upon startup followed by the second extruder heating up much more slowly. When the second extruder reaches approximately 200 degrees, the printer retrieves it and primes it -- it hasn't normalized at 210 yet. Then, after priming, it remains at 175 (standby temp?). When I was using the default 200 degree print temp, the second extruder was only getting to 180-190 before priming. Thus my concern. I haven't finished the calibration steps yet, so I'm still printing only with one extruder, but the dual extruder priming sequence is happening anyway. I know I can probably resolve this issue by upgrading the heater cartridge on second extruder. But other than the wait time for heating up, it should wait for proper temp, regardless. Thoughts? *B
  8. Seems like this should be something addressed in the actual Tinkernome firmware, rather than in an auxiliary script? It seems legit that extruder 1 and 2 may have different timings to come to temperature -- even with different materials. Shouldn't the printer always wait for the proper temp to be reached (as opposed to a manual script to be used for each print)? If there isn't consensus on this request for firmware change, can you be more specific about where and how to use M104 and M109? I'm not a Gcoder. Thanks again, *B
  9. I just completed my Mark 2 Build. I am using the UM2 original print head as the 2nd extruder. What I'm noticing is that the UM2 original print head takes quite a while longer to heat up than the UM2+ print head. However, I'm also noticing that the firmware seems to try and prime the 2nd extruder BEFORE it's at the correct temperature -- it seems to attempt this after the 1st extruder is at temp. As such, ithe 2nd extruder is having a harder time priming correctly at the start of a print. Is there some way to remedy this....for the firmware to wait until the 2nd extruder reaches the proper temp rather than relying on the 1st extruder temp? Thoughts? *B
  10. Andy: Thanks for the tip. Yes, I did some research and that's exactly what I needed to do. Did it. Works now. *B
  11. While performing the UM 2+ extruder/feeder upgrade, my early production UM2 motherboard was smoked. Apparently there was extra solder under a stepper motor driver chip and by moving the board around during the upgrade, the solder fragment moved, shorted the chip and fried the board. Ok, I contact UM support. They won't support a warranty replacement -- board and upgrade kit is too old. Replacement board is $350 from UM. What? So I take a chance on a Chinese made clone board ($90 - much better). It's this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgrade-Ultimaker-2-3D-Printer-V2-1-5-Control-Board-Mainboard-Ultimaker2-Motherboard-w-USB-cable/32835586263.html (has replaceable stepper drivers -- hey -- that's why my original board blew out -- great). It arrives. I install it. Easy peasy. I fire up the printer -- powers up perfectly. I upgrade the firmware to UM2+, do a factory reset, I get the setup wizard. I click continue, and the Z platform starts homing up! Up? It's supposed to go down! What-the-heck is going on? I try jog controls in Pronterface. All the motors are moving in reverse. Homing X/Y, the head crashes to the front right. When I try to home Z, it crashes up. Don't berate me: Please help me figure this out. Thanks in advance, *B
  12. Guys: Neither of you really answered my question. I have an original UM. One from the very first shipment ever made -- when UM was made in the founder's apartment. It has larger diameter rods than the UM2. I am looking for a physical adapter that will be a new head carrier to contain the bearings from the UM original (NOT the UMO+) and carry the UM2 "Print Head" (NOT the UM2 extruder), or will adapt the UM2 heater/fan/nozzle components to bolt onto the bottom of the existing UMO head carrier (with the UMO heater/fan/nozzle components removed). I guess no one came up with such a scenario? I'll have to design one myself. *B
  13. I just received the UM2+ upgrade and realize that I'm going to be removing the original UM2 print head for the UM2+ head. I also happen to have a thoroughly hacked/modded UM original-original machine. Has anyone come up with a hack/mod to refit the UM2 head into the UM original-original Machine? Perhaps a printed replacement of the wood enclosure which allows the larger UM original rods, but permits the UM2 heater/head assembly to screw on? Thoughts? *B
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