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  1. Thanks for clarifying JDRM, I just didn't realize the cartridge was the same size and shape since my old one failed and needed to be replaced anyway. I got a new PT100 and the E3D is working great now. It's nice to see somewhat of a standard in those shapes.
  2. I'm running into this same thing, except, I'm wondering if I can use the e3d therm on the UM2 mobo? Sounds like it's not possible without some adapter due to the way the electronics are designed.
  3. I recently had someone interested in this so I posted what I've been using to get Gcode from Maya on GitHub. It's nothing fancy right now but it's just an obj export and launch Cura application with a Python script on the shelf. I didn't get too far with my previous approach, and Cura seemed to be changing too rapidly to keep up. Maybe now is a better time to get back into it with the new Cura 3.x https://github.com/Brictone/MayaToGcode
  4. I have the cooling per layer set to 17seconds, with a minimum speed to 10mm/sec. I'm testing 5mm/sec now. Since yesterday I pulled the Z rod out of the older machine, cleaned it and re-greased it. It's actually more stiff than it was. Before the bed would fall, when the motor is disengaged, under it's own weight to the bottom now it barely falls if at all. I also loosened and tightened the Y Axis pulley set screws. I am thinking less and less this has to do with X Y and Z mechanical alignments or calibration. But I'm happy to revisit everything and anything if anyone has suggestions. Attached is another model that is quicker and easier to print if anyone wants to test this on their machine. The areas where there is a solid layer, the outer walls come out different than the rest of the print. Some of it is only after it finishes a feature in some places its around the entire model. I've been able to affect the outer walls by changing the amount of infill. This changes the locations of solid infill. No change with tightening belts or pulley set screws or motors Scaling the model in X Y or Z, moves the anomalies to the same place on the model, where the solid layers and features are. They are not random. Changed firmware to Marlin 1.1.8. May have gotten worse. I don't have direct comparisons. Anyone have suggestions for Jerk, Acceleration, or anything else on an UMO+? I'm going to try the official firmware here in just a bit and see if that does anything.
  5. Well I went and pulled the Z rod out of the newer machine, I suspected it was worse since layers were inconsistent. It always skips or gets stuck on a layer about 1cm high. Regardless these consistent layer differences are still in the test piece. So it did not improve the problem I was having. I also added tensioners to the Large Y Axis belts. Just to clarify, I am getting different outside layers depending on whether or not the layer is solid or is hollow with 20% infill. They just look different enough on X Y axis. Solid layers are not as large in the X And Y axis. I'm using the open source Marlin 1.1.8 on the newer printer and 1.1.0 on the older one. Cura 3.2.1 Cura 15.4.6 was the same. It's very noticeable on this print because it's white. Both have the same issue so far. Attached are the STL and Gcode if anyone wants to give this a whirl and see if it's different. MagicBox_7.obj MagicBox_7.gcode
  6. Very interesting thought on the Z axis. I'll give the Z rods some attention. I just had a thought of increasing the tesselation of the model, right now it's very low poly, to see if it makes a difference. My thought is if the Z rod was dirty I would expect inconsistent results, right now it's perfectly reproduceable. Even if I lengthen the model on the Z. I used to have some belt tensioners, I used clothes pins springs. I can try that again. Although if the belts were loose I would expect see ringing and vibrations in the print. Which I do not. Thanks for the Z rod suggestion I'll try that tonight.
  7. Hi All, I've had my printer for over 7yrs and have torn it down and replaced parts and re-built it more than once. In face I have an UMO+ I purchased a couple of years ago and both have the same issue. They both have the UM2 electronics. So they are very close to the same. I'm getting these odd layer sizes with features of a print. I've done everything I can think of. I tightened all 12 pulley set screws, re-seated the XY motors, tightened belts on one. changed filament. The problem exists on both printers so I don't think it's mechanical. Here's what's happening exactly. The print is mostly hollow which is typical. If there is a layer that is more dense, meaning it has an internal support shelf or number of solid layers, the outside of the model with be slightly smaller. See attached photos. So it doesn't have a smooth finish. in some situations it really looks like a set screw might be loose because the anomaly doesn't travel all the way around the model. It's only on the left or right side because of a design that goes back on the Y. It seems like the thing that helps the most is printing between 50-100% infill. (Not really a solution in this case.) Which makes me thing it's not mechanical again. I'm happy to try anything, or if anyone would like to try my Gcode to see if it exists on their printer too. If anyone has seen this before let me know. Brictone
  8. @Daid, I actually just tried the model with the new beta and it did slice at .04mm, so yeah you really did fix the bug. I even tested it at .02mm, it used more memory but still sliced. Then the final nail in the coffen I tested it at .01mm and it failed when the memory usage hit 3.4gb or so. This is obviously not my goal printing at .01mm but just pushing the limits on this 1.5million poly for you. One other thing, Not sure if it's possible but thought it would be a nice feature. Would it be possible to either implement a delay after changing a setting, like Scale or rotate layer height, before it attempts to re-slice? I know the slicing is extremely fast it just chokes up for a few seconds before allowing the change. Maybe an non-default option to click to slice? For now my workaround is to change as many settings before I even load the part so I don't have deal with the delay. Has this been brought up before? What do you think? Thanks for a great slicer!
  9. I think this has come up before but is it possible to compile cura for 64bit windows? I've been printing more and more highpoly models, 1million+ and the slicing quits when the curaEngine.exe hits about 4gb of RAM. I can scale the model down or use larger layer heights or reduce the poly count but all of which reduces the quality I'm going for. Is there a step by step on compiling it for 64bit? or does this require some significant code revamp?
  10. Anon4321 I updated the firmware appropriately and everything is working the way it should. I was just wondering what the difference was. Amedee thanks for that. I'll keep that bible in mind for more info like that. This was more of a curious question than a concern. Everything is working great so far. even with my blown capacitor :(
  11. Hey All, I got my kit and got it installed last weekend. Everything is working good. I just had a couple of questions. Steps per millimeter for the new lead screw must be different. Based on the old lead screw there was a thread floating around that the minimum distance was .001875mm So I was going to print with layers according to a multiple of that number but any idea what the new number might be? Is this still the same? I can't put them next to each other as the printer is running but it seems like there more threads per/cm or inch or whatever. Also I'm clumsy and broke a tiny surface mounted capacitor on the heat bed electronics board. It pretty much cracked in half. I tried to solder in what was left of it and the Heated bed seams to be working and reading temps. I'm not printing with it now until I hear back from support but I'm concerned I shortened it's life without fixing it properly. I can solder another one in, I just don't know how to find out the size of the capacitor or orientation it should be. It's labeled C4 on the board and was the same as C5.
  12. Thanks for the tip on the little blue vertical line on the path preview in Cura. I didn't know about that. I've already moved on to another model I need to print but I'll keep an eye out for that.
  13. I must not understand how a travel speed can run at 175mm/s if the steps are limited to 48mm/s in the firmware on any one axis. Is this just for the extruder? Does the M203 E4000 override that? is the 40,000 step limitation a different scale than the E4000? I walked away while it was in the upper section. sorry I just don't know if it was failing to retract at all. Infill speed 40mm/s Inner shell speed 30mm/s Outer shell speed 25mm/s Minimal layer time 7.5 Layer height 0.05mm I think I see what was happening. Since I made a small part to test it may not have met these minimums. Now that I'm printing a bigger part It's looking like a success. Here's the settings. Retraction Minimum Travel(mm): 2 Enable combing On Minimal extrusion before rtracting: 0.04 Zhop: 0 Here is my Ini fiile I'm open to any suggestions anywhere else. [profile] layer_height = .05 wall_thickness = 0.8 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = .8 fill_density = 10 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 70 print_temperature = 220 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 70 support = Everywhere platform_adhesion = Brim support_dual_extrusion = Both wipe_tower = False wipe_tower_volume = 15 ooze_shield = False filament_diameter = 2.85 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100 retraction_speed = 50 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 retraction_min_travel = 2 retraction_combing = True retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.04 retraction_hop = 0.0 bottom_thickness = 0.0 object_sink = 0.0 overlap_dual = 0.15 travel_speed = 175 bottom_layer_speed = 25 infill_speed = 40 inset0_speed = 25 insetx_speed = 30 cool_min_layer_time = 7.5 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 1 skirt_gap = 3.0 skirt_minimal_length = 150.0 fan_full_height = 2 fan_speed = 100 fan_speed_max = 100 cool_min_feedrate = 7.5 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 15 support_type = Grid support_angle = 40 support_fill_rate = 0 support_xy_distance = 0.7 support_z_distance = 0.15 spiralize = False brim_line_count = 10 raft_margin = 5 raft_line_spacing = 1.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 0.7 raft_interface_thickness = 0.2 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = (lp1 . object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1 [alterations] start.gcode = G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off M203 E4000 ;change retraction limit M104 S{print_temperature} G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops ; if your prints start too high, try changing the Z0.0 below ; to Z1.0 - the number after the Z is the actual, physical ; height of the nozzle in mm. This can take some messing around ; with to get just right... G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0 ;G1 Z15.0 F{max_z_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length ;G1 F200 E5 ;extrude 5mm of feed stock ;G1 F200 E3.5 ;reverse feed stock by 1.5mm ;G92 X-90 Y-100 Z0 E0 M106 ;G1 X60 Y20 F10000 G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F5000 M109 S{print_temperature} G1 X0 Y0 Z0 F5000 G1 F100 E15 ;extrude some G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again ;go to the middle of the platform, and move to Z=0 before starting the print. G1 X{machine_center_x} Y{machine_center_y} F{travel_speed} G1 Z0.0 F{max_z_speed} M117 Printing... end.gcode = ;End GCode M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-10 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning G28 X0 Y0 F{travel_speed} ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm T1 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount} T0 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} M117 Printing... end2.gcode = ;End GCode M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning support_start.gcode = support_end.gcode = cool_start.gcode = cool_end.gcode = replace.csv = switchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders. G92 E0 G1 E-36 F5000 G92 E0 T{extruder} G1 X{new_x} Y{new_y} Z{new_z} F{travel_speed} G1 E36 F5000 G92 E0
  14. Alright so I made some small progress. very small. Here's what I changed. M203 E4000 in the start Gcode Retraction speed: 50 (I haven't noticed skipping or grinding but that thing whips back and forth pretty quick.) Temperature: 210 I have a shim that came with the v2 extruder drive kit. The whole thing still seems to move a bit. I did mess with a retraction distance of 5.5 and it seemed worse. Other notes about my printer: I have purchased in the past the Knurled drive bolt v3, extruder drive upgrade, hot end upgrade v2 (which came with a little blue shim) Firmware 13.12 Here are photos Any other ideas? I'm not exactly thrilled with the surface quality at 210 degrees either like aviphysics mentioned. 220 seems much nicer.
  15. Awesome, I'll be going through this list of advice and see what works best for me. Thanks!
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