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BIKBart

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  1. Hi Alexwimjan, That hot-end design looks great but why did you design a new kind of heaterblock for the E3D v6 if I may ask?
  2. BIKBart

    Underextrusion BCN Sigma & Cura

    That's sad to hear. All the modifications you describe where on my optional to-do list to improve the reliability of the machine but now I'm thinking to just give it back to the owner (I borrowed it with the option to buy). Probably better to invest my money in a new and more reliable dual-extrusion machine... I read somewhere on the internet that an owner of the Sigma thought the underextrusion had something to do with a bad stepper driver and that it misses steps as the driver gets warmer or something. Veedee, did you do the stepper driver upgrade on your machine or did you by the R17 model that has the improved stepper drives? I will try to google the post where I read this...
  3. Update: I think I found the solution, I misread in the E3D guide that they use a PT100 temperature sensor instead of the standard 100k thermistor. It makes sense that the Temp1 input on the Ultimaker electronics board cannot handle a 100k thermistor out of the box because the electronics on the board are tuned towards the PT100 setup (which works on a different principle). So I took the original Ultimaker PT100 from the hot end and mounted it in the E3D V6, changed the temperature sensor parameter in the firmware back to option "20" which is the default setting and now the temperature readings are correct and the hotend heats up as quickly as the original. Time for a first test print :-) This topic can be closed if you ask me.
  4. Hi Guys, I'm trying to install an E3D v6 24v hot-end set on a UM2+ to be able to print Nylon filament at heigher temperatures. This is the first time i'm doing a modification to the printer and I follow this guide: https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 supplemented with this video: However since I only want to exchange the hotend and not the extruder I cannot use the supplied firmware (hex file) and gcode to write the EEPROM to my understanding. So I downloaded the UM2.1 firmware on github (https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware) opened it in Arduino IDE 1.6.9 and made the adjustments in the configuration.h tab as instructed on the E3D guide, set the thermistor to type 5, adjusted the PID settings and the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP to 400. Uploading to the printer through Aruino IDE seems to work well, in the advanced menu of the printer it reads the Version that I put in in the uploaded firmware. However I did NOT do anything to the EEPROM, because when I connect the printer to Pronterface it reads out the values I changed in the newly uploaded firmware so I guess it is not neccessary? Compiling and uploading the firmware to the Ultimaker seems to work but when I check the temperature in the advanced menu of the userinterface it says the current temperature is 8 degrees C while the bed temperature reading is 21C (correct). I measured the resistance of the E3D thermistor and it seems to be 113K ohms so it is not broken I think. When I raise the temperature of the nozzle manually in the advanced menu the Heater Cartridge heats up immediatly and after a few seconds I get a reading from the thermistor as well. However somehow I have the feeling that the cartridge gets a lot hotter then the thermistor says. As a test I changed back to the original thermistor of the Ultimaker and updated the firmware through the most recent version of Cura and than the temperature sensing seems to work as accordingly so I guess there's nothing wrong with the board either and the issue is purely software related. Does anybody have an idea what I did or didn't do wrong?
  5. BIKBart

    Underextrusion BCN Sigma & Cura

    Dear Veedee, Did you ever solved this issue? I have a BCN3D sigma with similar underextrusion issues, and as far I can tell it has something to do with retraction. Because I noticed the underextrusion starts after a while (in the beginning its extruding fine) and increases as the details in a print increase or when the dual extrusion kicks in (thus the retraction increases). It's an old post but I hope you can tell me if and how you solved the issue. Kind regards, Bart
  6. Hi Guys, Searched on the forums but did not find a direct answer to my problem. When I copy the Materials.txt file from the printer to the SD card and edit the file on my pc, newly created material profiles have issues with the retraction length. It is set to something like 254.00 mm when I import the material profiles back into the printer, instead of the value I set it to on my pc. When I edit the parameter on the printer itself, it's saved as it is supposed to. Anyone else experienced the problem and is there a solution available?
  7. BIKBart

    Any suggestions for matte, sandable material?

    I will have a look into the Polymaker PC-MAX. Any thoughts on HIPS?? +1 regarding the sandability of white PLA, I noticed that it is a bit easier to sand than natural PLA/PHA from Colorfabb or black PLA @ neotko: is this the greentec you are talking about?? https://extrudr.eu/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-white?variant=15898525254
  8. Hi Guys, Just a quick question here, all suggestions are welcome. I like to print with PLA and PET (or XT/NGEN from colorfabb) because it's easy to print with. However I also like the more matte look ABS parts and how easy it is to sand afterwards with waterproof sanding paper. Shrinkage is not really issue for the parts I'm printing now, because it are small parts. Layer bonding however is an issue in ABS and because the parts are used in a functional prototype this is critical. Currently I'm printing ABS with 100% infill and 0.6 mm nozzle and the parts are really strong, layer bonding seems to be sufficient but it takes a lot of time. For future products an other material would be nice. So the question, what material has the following specifications: - matte look - easy to sand - suitable for functional, mechanical parts
  9. BIKBart

    The Lion King musical logo

    Version 1.0

    729 downloads

    As a valentine's gift for my girlfriend, I made a special invitation card to the musical. Retraced the image by hand in AutoCAD and transfered it to Inventor to make it a 3D solid. Printed with Colorfabb Woodfill without any problems. The result turned out great.
  10. That's great! Looking forward to that
  11. @ foehnsturm Do you have some sort of step-by-step guide to this modification? I'm considering to convert one of our two UM2+'s with your dual head technique, but I'm a little bit confused by the mass of information in this thread, so it's difficult for me to filter out the important stuff ;-)
  12. BIKBart

    ColorFabb Copperfill

    Anyone tried to print Copperfill with a 0.25 mm nozzle? A customer of mine asked for a pretty detailed ring to print in a metal-like material. The print came out well with standard PLA.
  13. Thanks for the insight both of you! I have a lot of orders to finish with the 0.4 mm nozzle currently installed, but after that I'm definately switching to 0.8 to do some testing with larger objects and faster printing.
  14. Thanks Gr5, this is exactly what I was looking for. Interesting how a bigger nozzle has a large impact on the overall printing time, while keeping the actual print speed (movement of the head) relatively low. You mention that the printer has to slow down to about 14 mm/sec for a right angle corner. Does the Ultimaker this? Is the speed dynamically calculated by Cura, based on the path the head needs to follow? I always thought that the speed is just a constant factor that doesn't change in the printing process. If it's dynamical, then it's insightful to know:)
  15. Hi Guys, After a failed search on this forum I'll just ask it, do you have any tips and tricks for printing with the different nozzles sizes? I've only printed with the pre-installed 0.4 mm nozzle, but I'm tempted to switch to the 0.8 nozzle for bigger prints. What I'm looking for is a good starter point for the basic settings of: - layer thickness - printing speeds - material choice - printing temperature - etc. For instance, for bigger prints with the 0.8 nozzle I wouldn't mind visible layers, so what's a good starter point there? If we gather all this information of all 4 nozzles sizes, maybe we can come up with a comprehensive nozzle guide? Would be a nice addition to the manuals? If this has already been covered please excuse me for posting this and help me find that specific post Bart
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