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Posts posted by catohagen
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That's a great idea! They are cheap and already manufactured. I will buy some. Maybe it could have an slot to insert it after cutting it (for easy off/on/swapnozzle).
Coolcoolcool
Yeah, the whole fanduct needs to come off for nozzlechange, a slot would be helpful, its printing very well, if it matters, atleast the tip of the nozzle is covered in silicone and gets less exposed to air from the fans
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Just finished printing this in ColorFabb XT-CF20 and while sitting there looking at my
first carbon print, i saw a E3D silicone sock on the table......so the part of the silicone sock covering the nozzle just fit in the nozzle hole in the fanduct
I took sizzors and cut out just the nozzle covering silicone and mount it in the fanduct hole and mounted the thing
looks good, doing a test print now...
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Thats awesome
I already have a real Roland 600mm wide vinyl plotter, I see the holder&knife you're using is similar to mine
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You will find nozzle size in Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Printers
Click on your machine and click 'Machine Settings'
Atleast for my Ultimaker Orginal, I would assume its the same on Ultimaker 2+
But as Neotko mentioned, line width will do the same.
I'm using a 0.4 nozzle and usally have line width 0,35 to get better prints
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Yes, running two Curas with the same synchronized settings folder will not sync settings correctly (or other running Curas won't automaticly update), if you for example change the layer height on one computer, it will be updated when you start Cura on the other computer, or exit Cura and restart it.
But it works very well now...
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After installing a Bondtech feeder, GT2 Belts, heated bed,my wooden UMO gives me
fantastic prints.
Working as a mechanical engineer, one of our customers NorDan (makes doors and windows) had a professional printer for prototyping and the chief for R&D still shakes his head when we send new prototypes for their Smarthouse project, as they wasted
30.000 euro, when a homebuild wooden printer gives same function and good prints for a fraction of the price.
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well, http://superuser.com/questions/469776/how-to-exclude-files-not-folders-from-dropbox-sync
quit cura, deleted these .log files
made 3 new folders, cura.log, stderr.log and stdout.log
goto dropbox settings, edit selective sync,
uncheck cura.log, stderr.log and stdout.log
dropbox will now delete these folders and not sync them
the new .log files Cura will create when started will not sync either
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Dropbox gets permission errors on cura.log, stderr.log and stdout.log because Cura is holding these files open, and since there is 2 computers with synced settings folder and both running Cura is holding the same 3 files open to write to them.
Can a command line option disable creation of these .log files ?
Like a -quiet option ?
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well, seems to work anyhow....after you sync the cura settings folder, you need to uinstall and reinstall cura....but i dont really know whats happening. Someone with knowhow of the cura inner workings should maybe try this.
BUT, both home office and work office computers are still symlinked with the common Dropbox settings folder for cura, and today at work, I printed with a 0.8mm nozzle and created a new profile (at work) and now when i'm home, i see that the 0,8mm profile is current in Cura after I started it.
Maybe it works, but maybe sync is slow and nothing is updated quick enough....because I now home, and I change settings in the 0.8mm profile.
Then i Remote Desktop into work computer but the change isnt there...yet.
Here at home in :
C:\Users\catoh_000\AppData\Local\cura\quality
the work created profile is synced.
ultimaker_original_normal+quality+0.8mm+nozzle.inst.cfg
but timestamp is 11:33 today (around lunch time)
if I go to same file at work(view with rdesktop), the same file timestamp is 23:14
and dropbox says its sync and up to date (but its not)
And if Cura is already loaded when I remote desktop and log in, I can use Cura, but if I start Cura on the remote machine, I get OpenGL error and Cura exits ?
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Nozzle heats up faster than the bed, so I set the bed to heat upto 50° first, and then start heating the nozzle and bed at the sime time, its perfect.
Start Gcode :
M190 S50 ; wait for 50C bed temp
M104 S{material_print_temperature} ; set extruder temp
M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; set bed temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature} ; wait for extruder temp
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A) Go to Preheat on Tinkergnome's firmware. Heat the bed to material temp, and set the extruder temp to 130 or so, which should be safe with any filament I've used.
B) Wait for the bed temp to get to 3-5 degrees below target temp.
C) Print the model, with the nozzle already pre-heated. The bed will reach the target temp at about the same time as the print begins.
This is all automatable with Kisslicer using simple pre-print gcode and KS' temperature variables.
Tinkergnome's firmware is UM2 only, im on UMO
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Forget it
I see settings are synced and the same on both computers, but Cura refuses to read them now, Cura loads up and asks to add a printer, ultimakers are not even listed, i get Custom and Other to choose from....
Anyone know whats happening ?
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From the manual:
Skirt minimum length: The total length of the skirt. This will override the skirt line count when the minimum length is not reached yet.Ah....thank you I have not activated this setting, when I check it, it says 250mm....still confused, i would think the minimum lenght should not come into play unless the setting is checked and visible in the rightside panel.
This means that all settings and its default values are valid and applied to prints even when its not visible...
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Using symlinks on Windows should work with ex.Dropbox, i tried
Computer 1 : (where the cura settings i want to share are)
mklink /J C:\Users\robotisering\Dropbox\cura C:\Users\robotisering\AppData\Local\cura
Junction created for C:\Users\robotisering\Dropbox\cura <<===>> C:\Users\robotis
ering\AppData\Local\cura
computer 1 :
1 : "C:\Users\robotisering\Dropbox\cura" is the new cura settings folder on dropbox
2: "C:\Users\robotisering\AppData\Local\cura" is the local cura settings
computer 2 :
delete AppData\Local\cura
mklink /J C:\Users\catoh_000\AppData\Local\cura C:\Users\catoh_000\DropboxEC\Dropbox\cura
Junction created for C:\Users\catoh_000\AppData\Local\cura <<===>> C:\Users\cato
h_000\DropboxEC\Dropbox\cura
on computer 2 we now recreate the AppData\Local\cura with a symlink to the dropbox location
making these symlinks on 2 computers should share the settings over Dropbox
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Apart from @nallath electrical concerns, there's another reason why it is nicer to first heat up the bed, before starting to heat up the hotend: The hotend is going to reach its target temperature much sooner than the bed. Idle filament in a hot hotend can start to ooze and/or deteriorate in quality. For some materials (eg wood filled or brass filled), it can even lead to clogged nozzles.
The added wait time of first heating up the bed and then heating up the hotend is going to by negligible compared to the print time for anything but the smallest of prints.
Yes, I totally agree....but if we know all these things and still want to heat both, I think there should be and option
If a print is finished and i want to do another one, the bed and nozzle are already warm but temp drops, if I start a Simplify3D file, both starts heating back up again, but start a Cura file, the bed heats and the nozzle cools meanwhile
Hide it under expert settings or in the machine settings with a warning of weak PSU issues and clogged nozzles.
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Using Cura 2.3.1, I print with 3 walls with a 0.4mm nozzle, i have 1 skirt selected with 3mm distance and when i print, the machine prints 3 skirts aswell.
Bug ? Not a problem with small parts, but then the buildarea is filled it takes a while to do all 3 skirts
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Nallath, printer works fine with this in Simplify3D
M190 heats the bed with wait
M140 heats the bed but jumps to next line
so added these lines to the start gcode in machine settings :
M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; set bed temp
M104 S{material_print_temperature} ; set extruder temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature} ; set extruder temp
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Which Ultimaker model are you using?
UMO with official heated bed upgrade
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Can I configure Cura 2.3.1 to heat the bed and nozzle at the same time?, now it heats the bed, then the nozzle...
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How does the network printing work ?
Does it copy the gcode file to the printer first, then prints with the hardcopy stored in the printer, or
doest it continuously send bits of the gcode while it prints.
And is it possible to mount/share the USB drive to a networked computer so you can manage the files
remotely ?
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any info on what hardware this linux ssh runs on? I might think oldschool hw, but running a webserver for http access on a running printer might steal resources for 'printing'
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from :
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1234_Bottom_Panel_(x1)
and
https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/tree/master/1006_Top_Panel
you can see that holes for guide shafts are both ø12mm and they are 160mm apart
(center to center) on both UMO and UM2 (loaded up the STEP files to measure)
People seems to have fitted UM2 heated beds to UMO before :
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5843-cheap-and-beautiful-um2-heat-bed-available-for-um1
so if you find a cheap kit from ebay, should probably work fine
Ultimaker Original Dual Fan Upgrade | Contributed by Neotko
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
oh...yeah, didnt notice that For a e3d v6 heater the sock makes sense,
I ordered these socks but they dont fit the ultimaker heater block, but with this fanduct its possible to just use the tip, as the fanduct holds it in place.