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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Iv'e been using this one here for a while without any real issues at all, was a big improvement over the original. After about a year, the hinged part snapped so I would recommend printing a spare or two from here if you end up using it.
  2. The lights I used came on a flexible strip with tape on the back. I cut it into 4 pieces (2 vertical on the front panel, and two running down each side of the "ceiling") and used wire to connect them. The wire I used was a white ribbon cable so it's hard to see but the black electrical tape is where the connections are: Just barely thin enough to tuck up above the belts The routing is like this (red = leds, black = wire connections, white = wire connection to controller underneath): I started integrating the lights into Marlin to be controlled through g-code but I haven't touched this
  3. From what I remember, in "Configuration.h" in the marlin firmware you just have to un-comment one line. Line 523: "// #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER" should become: "#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER"
  4. This forum is closed and I haven't been able to find any other info on this approach, but it looks pretty interesting. Uses just one DC motor to mechanically level the bed, no more software compensation. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/R3lSfnCz5W4
  5. Also, since you got it working, I don't think I actually posted this anywhere. I planned to do a little more messing around with this display but some time consuming things came up. I did manage to change the start-up logo to a UM one though. There's info on how to use this on the actual gallery post
  6. Odd, I have what appears to be the same exact controller (also got it on ebay) but it worked fine without messing with the connectors. Maybe it's the aftermarket board that has it backwards? Besides the screen having a little more room to play with, this controller was under $20 shipped vs UM's $105 + shipping. To UM's credit, mine came with no enclosure and required slightly more fiddling around with the firmware to get it to work.
  7. If you just want to change what is displayed, you'll have to find where the info is being called from, you don't have to change the font bitmaps. What are you trying to change? "language.h" holds a lot of the LCD message text
  8. A thermostat temperature switch would be a permanent safety measure. I think I'd rather have it be one time thing though, wouldn't want the bed turning back on after an issue without figuring out said issue first. You could even use one of http://www.ebay.com/itm/NC-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-Bimetal-Disc-150-x10-/130579778170?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e67294a7a as a (terrible) set temperature controller directly.
  9. Hadn't really considered that this is a better "angle of attack". Another nice feature of this simple mod. By the way, how simple is your set up? Did you add in a spring like the Kickstarter guys, or is just kind of a floating tube in a tube? Wonder how long the peek will hold up. Would you say the print is better than what you'd get without this "autolift"?
  10. Very cool. Seems to be working well. Print turn out okay? Looks like there's no slop in the X or Y axis when it's lifting up and down which I though might be an issue but I guess not.
  11. So I got the motivation to implement this from this thread here. I'm new to arduino/electronics in general so it took me some time to get this working and there are probably some bad practices in the code but it works! I tried to follow what I thought was proper procedure while implementing this into Marlin. You'll need to edit Configuration.h and Marlin_main.cpp, as well as add in two new files. I'll post everything at the bottom, except for the changes to Configuration.h as everyone's is probably a little different. Add this some where to the bottom, I put it right under the servo stuf
  12. I have an Ikea Led strip in my UM1 as well. There's a spot on the UM shield (1.5.6 at least) marked "19v LED" or something similar. I put a voltage regulator on there and ditched the extra cord. For the hotbed you'll have to either disconnect the barrel jack on the PCB or solder leads to the legs or something, which are connected to your power supply. I haven't done this, but when I do I'm going to use a power supply dialed down to 19V like the UM is used to. Heated bed might take a little longer to hear up but I'm okay with that
  13. Alright, so I've sort of got this working, but it acts funny. R, G, B channels hooked up to pins 8, 9 , and 10 respectively on EXP3. Setting all to 255 ("M42 P8 S255", "M42 P9 S255" ...) gives me white as expected. Setting to 255, 0, 0 gives me orange when I expect red, and setting to 0, 0, 0 gives me green which I expected to have the lights turn off. Green is the default, ie. that's whats on before giving any commands after plugging the printer in. I also got this green effect running the controller off a standalone arduino. Any ideas what's going on? Working on a Cura plugin now, but I wo
  14. A needle valve would help a lot but it would be a pretty complex set up I think and would add some sort of motor or solenoid or something to the mix per nozzle it's used on. Maybe with some type of four way valve you could get away with one, but then you are mixing material. I do like the KS author's idea of using 1 Stepper motor to drive 2 filaments. Not the best implementation on their part but a cool idea. Maybe a solenoid could be used to pivot the motor into one of the filaments on either side of it? Would need a decent strength solenoid or at least a locking mechanism though. Simpler an
  15. Thanks for clearing that up. This is going to make me sound like a noob but I figured I should ask before I let the smoke out on something. So according to this diagram here: http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Hacking/PinMap2560big.png EXP3 on the UM PCB (1.5.7) would be digital pins 8-13, AKA actual pins (according to the diagram) 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, and 26? And all of these are free to use as I/O? I plan on using the M42 command to play with these, would I use "M42 P13 Sxxx" or "M42 P26 Sxxx" to address the LEDPIN? I am quite new to arduino/electronics in general if you couldn't tell, sorry t
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