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  1. Iv'e been using this one here for a while without any real issues at all, was a big improvement over the original. After about a year, the hinged part snapped so I would recommend printing a spare or two from here if you end up using it.
  2. The lights I used came on a flexible strip with tape on the back. I cut it into 4 pieces (2 vertical on the front panel, and two running down each side of the "ceiling") and used wire to connect them. The wire I used was a white ribbon cable so it's hard to see but the black electrical tape is where the connections are: Just barely thin enough to tuck up above the belts The routing is like this (red = leds, black = wire connections, white = wire connection to controller underneath): I started integrating the lights into Marlin to be controlled through g-code but I haven't touched this or my printer really in a while: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6204-rgb-led-strips-control/&do=findComment&comment=56945
  3. From what I remember, in "Configuration.h" in the marlin firmware you just have to un-comment one line. Line 523: "// #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER" should become: "#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER"
  4. This forum is closed and I haven't been able to find any other info on this approach, but it looks pretty interesting. Uses just one DC motor to mechanically level the bed, no more software compensation. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/R3lSfnCz5W4
  5. Also, since you got it working, I don't think I actually posted this anywhere. I planned to do a little more messing around with this display but some time consuming things came up. I did manage to change the start-up logo to a UM one though. There's info on how to use this on the actual gallery post
  6. Odd, I have what appears to be the same exact controller (also got it on ebay) but it worked fine without messing with the connectors. Maybe it's the aftermarket board that has it backwards? Besides the screen having a little more room to play with, this controller was under $20 shipped vs UM's $105 + shipping. To UM's credit, mine came with no enclosure and required slightly more fiddling around with the firmware to get it to work.
  7. If you just want to change what is displayed, you'll have to find where the info is being called from, you don't have to change the font bitmaps. What are you trying to change? "language.h" holds a lot of the LCD message text
  8. A thermostat temperature switch would be a permanent safety measure. I think I'd rather have it be one time thing though, wouldn't want the bed turning back on after an issue without figuring out said issue first. You could even use one of http://www.ebay.com/itm/NC-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-Bimetal-Disc-150-x10-/130579778170?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e67294a7a as a (terrible) set temperature controller directly.
  9. Hadn't really considered that this is a better "angle of attack". Another nice feature of this simple mod. By the way, how simple is your set up? Did you add in a spring like the Kickstarter guys, or is just kind of a floating tube in a tube? Wonder how long the peek will hold up. Would you say the print is better than what you'd get without this "autolift"?
  10. Very cool. Seems to be working well. Print turn out okay? Looks like there's no slop in the X or Y axis when it's lifting up and down which I though might be an issue but I guess not.
  11. So I got the motivation to implement this from this thread here. I'm new to arduino/electronics in general so it took me some time to get this working and there are probably some bad practices in the code but it works! I tried to follow what I thought was proper procedure while implementing this into Marlin. You'll need to edit Configuration.h and Marlin_main.cpp, as well as add in two new files. I'll post everything at the bottom, except for the changes to Configuration.h as everyone's is probably a little different. Add this some where to the bottom, I put it right under the servo stuff: #define LEDCONTROL #ifdef LEDCONTROL // Declare pin numbers for the RGB channels #define REDPIN 8 #define GREENPIN 9 #define BLUEPIN 10 #endif To physically connect this, you'll need to break out EXP3 (I just used female headers for now, and I broke out all of the analog pins while I was in there). I used pins 8, 9, and 10 connected to red, green, and blue channels respectively. If you use different pins, edit the above code accordingly. I used an Ikea Dioder led strip which came with a controller. This is an over priced solution so I wouldn't recommend it, but lucky for me I already had it and it comes with a built in controller which has all the components already there to control this easily. I hacked apart the controller like . Here is a picture of my set up: This whole thing is controlled with G-Code, so I've just been adding it in to the start/end code in Cura. Running "M420 R255 E255 B255" will make the lights turn white (can't use "G" for green as that is already a special G-Code character) "M420 S0" will make the lights fade through all the colors like the above video. There is some error checking so you can't run a pattern like that when the hot-end is set above 0. I'm working on a way so you can use a custom pattern for the end of the print, but I'm new to coding and this isn't coming along quickly so I figured I'd post what's working now. Also working on a Cura plugin so that I can keep the lights off for the most part, and just have them light up for a bit on layer changes. Here are the files you'll need when building firmware: marlin_main.cpp changes to the above if you don't want to sift through it LEDcontrol.h LEDcontrol.cpp Hopefully someone will get some use out of this, but if not, it was fun to finally get my feet wet with the Arduino. Feel free to critique away.
  12. I have an Ikea Led strip in my UM1 as well. There's a spot on the UM shield (1.5.6 at least) marked "19v LED" or something similar. I put a voltage regulator on there and ditched the extra cord. For the hotbed you'll have to either disconnect the barrel jack on the PCB or solder leads to the legs or something, which are connected to your power supply. I haven't done this, but when I do I'm going to use a power supply dialed down to 19V like the UM is used to. Heated bed might take a little longer to hear up but I'm okay with that
  13. Alright, so I've sort of got this working, but it acts funny. R, G, B channels hooked up to pins 8, 9 , and 10 respectively on EXP3. Setting all to 255 ("M42 P8 S255", "M42 P9 S255" ...) gives me white as expected. Setting to 255, 0, 0 gives me orange when I expect red, and setting to 0, 0, 0 gives me green which I expected to have the lights turn off. Green is the default, ie. that's whats on before giving any commands after plugging the printer in. I also got this green effect running the controller off a standalone arduino. Any ideas what's going on? Working on a Cura plugin now, but I would like be able to fade these LED's through all their colors. I'd imagine I'd have to put this in Marlin somewhere to avoid a never ending G-Code? Might as well try and add a menu for the LCD controller while I'm in there. I don't know Python or Arduino very well so this will be a process. Here's some pics, basically hacked up the controller just like that video a couple posts up.
  14. A needle valve would help a lot but it would be a pretty complex set up I think and would add some sort of motor or solenoid or something to the mix per nozzle it's used on. Maybe with some type of four way valve you could get away with one, but then you are mixing material. I do like the KS author's idea of using 1 Stepper motor to drive 2 filaments. Not the best implementation on their part but a cool idea. Maybe a solenoid could be used to pivot the motor into one of the filaments on either side of it? Would need a decent strength solenoid or at least a locking mechanism though. Simpler and more complicated at the same time than 2 stepper motors.
  15. Thanks for clearing that up. This is going to make me sound like a noob but I figured I should ask before I let the smoke out on something. So according to this diagram here: http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Hacking/PinMap2560big.png EXP3 on the UM PCB (1.5.7) would be digital pins 8-13, AKA actual pins (according to the diagram) 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, and 26? And all of these are free to use as I/O? I plan on using the M42 command to play with these, would I use "M42 P13 Sxxx" or "M42 P26 Sxxx" to address the LEDPIN? I am quite new to arduino/electronics in general if you couldn't tell, sorry to ask a million questions.
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