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  1. Well, maybe I have to explain the history: UM released the UMO. Later, they changed the extruder to an "upgraded" version. Another months later, they added a heated bed and now called that UMO+. My machine is basically the same, as I upgraded the parts my own with the official characteristics but without the Ulticontroller. Long story short, the pt100 sensor has 110 Ohm, after the amplifier board I read above value of ~48k. (in fact, the mainboards are different between UMO+(pcb v1.5.7) and UM2) The Heated bed sensor is also in normal measurements. Only X is moving. Z is "blocked" by the stepper and Y has a cold stepper. So I assume an issue with the pcb (v1.5.7) or arduino. All homing switches work. Firmware is Marlin v1.0, which is shipped with Cura.
  2. Hi there After some weeks of not printing, my modified UMO+ suddenly throws temperature errors. Error:0 : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered ! Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) echo:SD init fail which is strange as my manual readings are 43,8k for the Extruder and 117,5k Ohm for the custom heated bed. If I check the temperature in Cura it says 1100°C for the Bed and 0°C for the head. I assumed the Arduino has a problem, but I changed that already. No difference. Also, if I press the Home button, the printer head moves only in one direction. Any suggestions? Cheers, Luke
  3. Also ich wäre auch am Start. Wie sind die einzelnen Komponenten gestaltet? Ich hab mit Formenbau etwas Erfahrung, lasse die aber immer aus Aluminium fräsen, damit sich nichts verzieht. (Allerdings sind meine CFK-Modelle auch innen hohl) Welches Gewebe willst du verwenden?
  4. Thanks! -> StepDown Converter needed and soldered on DC-Jack.
  5. Hey there Simple Question: Can I drive the Raspberry Pi (OctoPrint) at EXP2 or 3? Is there enought current (1,5A)? Is the voltage stable(5V)? Thanks! Greets, Noc
  6. Hey folks I want to use the EXP3 (PWM) pins to control an Ikea Dioder RGB LED bar, but don't know if I can do so. The pins.h from github/ErikZalm are already used for: #define HEATER_BED_PIN 4 #define TEMP_BED_PIN 10 #define HEATER_0_PIN 2 #define TEMP_0_PIN 8 //Is this Pin A8 or just 8??? #define HEATER_1_PIN 3 #define TEMP_1_PIN 9 //so why is this Pin used, when the PCB Wiki tells me its on EXP3? #define HEATER_2_PIN -1 #define TEMP_2_PIN -1 //What does -1 mean? #define E0_STEP_PIN 43 #define E0_DIR_PIN 45 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 41 #define E1_STEP_PIN 49 #define E1_DIR_PIN 47 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 48 #define SDPOWER -1 #define SDSS 53 #define LED_PIN 13 #define FAN_PIN 7 #define PS_ON_PIN 12 I'm trying to attach the IKEA RGB Dioder LED bars to Marlin. I've already solderd a Darlington array with an step-down board and tested it with my 2nd Mega. It's working with pin 8-13 - so far so good. Also the custom G-Code M250 (all off) M251, M252 (on) are working with Marlin. But as told, I need 6 channels. Can someone show me a solution to get 6 PWM outputs or one Tx (with arduino micro)? I'm totally stucked in code. Thanks a lot! Greetings, Noc
  7. Yeah, thanks for that Link! So I'll have to use expansion 3. Based on 2 RGB Channels, I need 6 PWM outputs. The 1.5.7 Electronic has an LEDs output Pin. How much Power does it support? I messured 18,8V. That would be perfect for the Dioder (with a step-down Board) The Wiki says: "A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting" What is the exact current? Thanks!
  8. Hello Community I'm trying to connect an second arduino with the Mega from the Ultimaker electronics. My plan was to connect the second to an free RX/TX port on the Mega to add an custom G-Code for changing the color. (e.g G66 255, 255, 255) I don't know if the electronics uses the PWM outputs from the Mega. If so, I need an extra board. If not - direct attach the Dioder Lights to the Mega with a Darlington Array and an extra power supply. (from here: http://ikennd.ac/blog/2011/09/arduino-dioder-part-one/) An example would be to change the Color every line or to change the light when finished printing with start end G-Code) Can somebody help me with the programming in Marlin and tell me wich pins are reserved/used? Greets, Noc
  9. Meinen Senf: Ich hab mir für geschlagene 30€ bei GRRF 3mal 10m Testmaterial bestellt. Nachdem Sie meine Bestellung vergessen hatten, Ich 2 Wochen lang NACH dem bezahlen nichte mehr gehört hatte, kam dann doch das Material mal an. Persönlich denke ich aber, dass das Unternehmen noch nicht groß genug ist, um Sonderwünsche in irgend einer Zertifizierten Servicestruktur unterzubringen. da kann meiner Meinung nach schon mal was verloren gehen. (zumal ich eine sehr ausgefallene Bestellung hatte) Als Entschuldigung lag noch mal ein Stück "Wood" und ein Päckchen Gummibären mit drin. Zurück zum PLA. Ich hatte Blau transparent, fluoreszierend Orange und Gold. Blau und Orange sind sehr gut. -+0,05mm. Auch Gold hat diese Toleranzklasse - leider mit meiner Meinung nach zu wenig "Weichmacher"(?). Das Zeug ist so extrem hart, dass es eher bricht, als zu biegen. Das ist meiner Meinung nach ein Nachteil. Fazit: Das nächste Material bestell ich wieder bei denen. Leider sind die 2,3kg etwas viel in meinem Fall, weshalb ich nur die wirklich oft verwendeten Farben drucke.
  10. noctis

    Frankfurt, Guude

    Ei Guude, Mein UM sollte heute verschickt werden, wenn die Zeitangaben stimmen. In diesem Sinne: Hallo zusammen Hab gestern mit diversen Usern gesprochen und anscheinend gibts in Frankfurt mehr als einen UM. Wer Lust hat kann sich ja mal melden, zwecks 3D-Druck Stammtisch in FFM. Gruß, Noc
  11. Wo kann ich mich zur MakerFair in M anmelden / News erfahren / News abonieren? Hab von Watterott schon erfahren, dass da wohl was kommen soll...
  12. I don't know the exact thread, but with a little measure you can find the right spindle here: German Shop: http://maedler.de/Product/1643/1620/2028/2031/2048.aspx
  13. when you replace the belts with ballscrew drives, the long time accuracy will increase (in my opinion) BUT: that causes in higher costs and lower printing speed. A further option is the distance measurement with a Linear Position Sensor. But these are temperature sensitive, so ...
  14. Hey Steeve Try the PA Busines. The Rack Cases use 4-9mm plywood in different colours. Here you can ask for some: pa@thomann.de And here you'll find the Cases: http://www.thomann.de/fr/cases_racks_housses.html
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