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kitwashere

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Posts posted by kitwashere

  1. I am wondering if the components that come with this kit are plug and play electrical wise? I didn't see any info on what type of thermocouple or heater are included and if I will need different firmware on my machine. Sort of a newbie when it comes to these things. I'm playing with sketchup now making a mount for this thing! Can't wait to get it up and running

     

  2. You mean widening the stainless piece to 3.2mm instead of 3mm? That should be do-able, can always try and con the local machine shop into helping me out if it comes to it.

    Haha and really? I've been checking that website daily waiting for it to not say "Coming Soon". Placing an order now

    Thank you for putting all this info out there. I've been wanting a new hot end for a while as my V1 is nothing but trouble

  3. Oh wow, you were right. I had a tenioner that I printed when I first got the machine, but it was difficult to put on so I figured the belts were tight enough.

    Forced it on and so far so good, no clunk! I'm gonna print out another for the opposite belt now!

    You are the man, Daid

  4. I can hear the rods slamming back and forth now that I know what to listen for. So I'm confident that's at least part of my problem. The belts seem tight, I will try to make some kind of tensioner out of wood or something anyways though.

    I really hope someone on here as a hobby lathe and a big heart haha.

    Or maybe I could try and cut my set of feeler gauges into circles... Hmmm

  5. So I've been having headaches trying to get my machine calibrated correctly. I can't print circles, they always end up funky. Not egg shaped, just weird with flat spots and stuff. And square parts sometimes give me lips or burrs on the edges.

    When I moved the head out of the way so I could remove a print I heard a thunk followed by a second one. I looked around, moved some stuff, and found that the Y-Axis rods are short and slide back and forth in their bearings. I must not have been able to hear the "thunk" while it's printing with all the digital beeps and stuff.

    They don't travel enough to fall out of the bearings, so I am thinking I can get away with like a plug on the end to take up the play. I got out my dial caliper, using the end of it to measure .030" and .020" play in the two axis. A depth mic. would be nice but I don't have one.

    Online custom machining services quoted me at $60 for EACH one, not including shipping with an 8 week lead time...

    Shapeways and Ponoko have minimums for volume which I don't meet. Well, Shapeways says mine should work but the STLs I uploaded changed dimensions after the "approval" procedure.

    Was wondering if anyone had similar issues, and how they got around it.

    Also if anyone would be interested in making me these parts ;) For money of course.

    Any help appreciated.

    -Mike

  6. I'm not really good with electronics (Still on the "Don't let the smoke out" theory, ha) but I am wanting to do this.

    Will I need any capacitors to run this to avoid "noise" or is it fine without since the input is DC? I am only trying to run one set of LED's from the spot on the board labeled 19VDC LED. It is the "Dioder" set from IKEA of flexible RGB lights I had lying around. Transformer from the wall outlet says it's output is 12VDC 5W max. I already have them in place and they look great, only eyesore is taking up 2 outlets.

    I'm honestly not even sure how to use a breadboard. Could you please provide like a diagram or something of the sort of what you did up there? Do I need multiple regulators? Easily upgradeable to add fans like you have in the future?

    Sorry to ask a million questions, any help appreciated.

    -Mike

  7. I did as Nik said and just put 850 in the "Steps per E" box, saved, and hit extrude. In the dos box it says:

    "Connecting to: COM3 250000"

    And then nothing happens, the buttons on the wizard "ungrey-out" and that's it. I tried it again and it says the same thing in the dos box, just:

    "Connecting to: COM3 250000"

    No error codes or anything. When I hit finish the wizard and the dos box just close out. Something does come up in the dos box but it goes away to fast to read it.

    When I tried to skip all the tests and just get through the First Run Wizard, same story. Once I hit finish on the "Extrude 100mm" page, everything just closes.

  8. I gave Cura a shot and all seemed to be going well with the First Run Wizard, but when I got to the part where it has me extrude 100mm of filament the extruder never turns. When I click finish it just closes everything out. Also during the endstop tests, all went through fine except for the last one, bottom Z stop. The stop seemed to work in the control panel section of ReplicatorG.

    Any help appreciated, I still have not gotten any prints with my machine.

    Thank in advance.

    -Mike

  9. I finally got my Ultimaker fully built yesterday. Got RepG installed and all, and everything seems to jog fine in the control panel there. But sometimes the Z motor will not move the stage. Sounds like it is trying but nothing turns. The clamping screws are very tight, and the motor does work about half the time, but the other half if just doesn't no matter what speed or distance I set it to.

    When the Z motor was working semi consistently, I attempted to print the 20mm test box. After I press build only the X and Y axis are doing their job, Z motor is not even trying and the extruder is not turning. I have gotten the extruder to heat up and spit out melted plastic in the control panel, so I know that it is functional. Seems like I'm doing something wrong with the program. All of this was done on the stock firmware (5D)

    Any help appreciated.

    -Mike

  10. Just take the pins out of the connector and push the wires through. Then reconnect after you get them where you need them (take a picture to make sure you have the right order).

    Doing this made getting stuff through the wire looms (kite fabric) a million times easier. Just push on the end of the wire from the side with a pin and pull it out of the connector

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