kitwashere
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Posts posted by kitwashere
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Just throwing it out there, seeing if anyone would want to do a group buy on Faberdashery filament to the US. I plan on placing an order in the next week or so and I'm sure the shipping will be quite high even for just 2 rolls.
I'm in the northeast (CT) so if this gets a decent response I figure we could get the initial shipment to whoever is more or less in the middle of everybody and then divvy it out accordingly.
Hope some people jump on board.
Will probably do the same when the new http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/?p=50862 stuff gets put together at ColorFabb. Exciting things going on there!
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So after a lot of messing around with settings, I am actually getting usable prints at the moment! Very exciting! 260C with the fan on at 25mm/s takes forever but gives me decent results, a little blobbing but nothing some elbow grease can't take care of. Maybe my thermocouple is out of adjustment or something because 260 seems very high for PLA but whatever, it works.
I am getting random connection loss between the printer and my PC, but this seems to be a somewhat common problem with printing over USB. Placed an order for some parts to make a controller to sort that out hopefully.
Thanks to everyone who posted, I finally feel like I own a 3D printer instead of a very expensive, smelly box (tung oil takes some time for the stench to wear off)
I was trying to turn an old GameBoy into a controller for the thing, and also had plans to make a filament "pre-heater" to try and reduce friction in the bowden tube, and I've got some motivation to pick those up again!
Thanks again to everyone!
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So I tried with no fan and still got the same results, tried again making a kapton tape "duct" to make sure air doesn't get blown on the nozzle and got the same again. This was all last night, today i'll take apart the hotend again, check for plugs and try again with a super slow speed (been doing all of this on the default 50mm/s) and up the temperature (been at 210 or 220 during these attempts)
I know I have a postage scale lying around somewhere, if I can dig that up I will give that test a try.
And that is very generous of you! I haven't been up to Boston since I was a kid, might take you up on that. Filament, lunch, and beer on me of course
@everyone saying to buy from UM
The base price for the parts is extremely high and with the shipping to the US it makes it unreasonable.
From what i can tell the major improvement made on the hotend is the teflon piece, no? If it comes to it, maybe I can hack something together with some teflon tubing from McMaster.
Thanks to all, wish me luck
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The bowden seems really solid at the push-fit connector at the hot end, and I've never noticed it moving on either end. This all happens on parts with no retraction as well so I don't think it's that. Any certain way to test this you can think of?
In the printing wizard in Cura the graph with the temperatures seems very stable, I'll grab a screenshot next time I give it another try.
I have disassembled the hotend recently and found no faults there, but I'll check it again and see is anythings funky.
When I read this out loud it seems the problem would have to be at the hotend though. The filament gets all chewed up so the feeder is trying. Maybe I'll try zip-tying my UBIS in there and see if I get any improvements.
Thanks for the suggestions
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So I've been frustrated with my UM1 for some time now.
Smaller parts seem to print okay, but anything relatively large will print the first few layers fine and then start heavily under extruding.
All of this is on V1 everything, hotend and feeder (which I would love to change but I can't print anything worth while! Have an UBIS hotend sitting right next to me and all of the vitamins for this feeder http://www.tridimake.com/2013/04/rollerstruder-filament-feeder-driver.html)
I did manage to get Bertho's bearing feeder thing (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094) printed so I've got that going for me. I am pretty sure the feeder is at fault here. The filament is always chewed to all hell. I've tried light pressure on the spring holding the bearing to the filament, up to almost fingers bleeding tight.
Any help solving my issue is greatly appreciated. I actually checked Ponoko to price out having that feeder printed for me! That is how frustrated I am with this thing.
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HI
It already supports 3 point levelling, there are 6 extra holes on the 2 edges, there is one hole in between the UM's default screw holes on each edge, they can use for 3 point levelling.
Awesome, didn't notice that in the pictures. Once all that sweet tax money comes my way I will be placing an order!
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If you intent to do a future batch, an extra hole (or an option) for using 3-point bed leveling would be cool. I'd probably pick one up if it had that.
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When the nozzle clogs on mine, I take it out and use a propane torch. Blasts everything out of there in like 5 seconds.
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I wonder if the people with direct drive on a UM1 could put the Z motor where the Y motor was and use that setup.
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I just took the connectors off, and threw them back on after pushing the wires through the "kite" material. Make sure to take note (or better yet, a picture) of the wire positions before doing it this way though.
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I would drill the hole in the Z platform to set up a 3 point bed leveling system. Been meaning to do that on mine but I'm lazy. Wish I did it before I assembled the machine
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Has support for this been discontinued? I have one of these (forgot I bought it) collecting dust that I would like to use if possible
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I will be jumping onto the next batch of these. If a deposit will be required, that's fine by me. You seem trustworthy judging on how happy everyone in this thread is with their purchase. Looking forward to an update.
Thank you for doing this for the community
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I received an email from Printrbot this morning. This sale through January 6th is the last run of the 3mm size. Get em while you can!
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This would be awesome. I already have a Dioder set installed on my machine with just the included controller hanging out the side. Never even thought of trying to control the colors with the Ultimaker itself.
Hope you figure this out, good luck man
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I know this is an old topic but I figured I'd put it out there. I recently made this extruder upgrade, and after a LOT of searching at local stores, I found everything I needed at Sears Hardware. 50mm bolts, springs, washers, and nuts. I felt so stupid buying screws off the internet so I didn't give up looking around town. $4.64 was my total price, cheaper than just the shipping from McMaster Carr!
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Awesome, thanks so much! Should just be a day or so now until I get this up and running!
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Rub it in why don't ya! haha
I have no idea what's going on with the firmware, so it might be in my best interest to just bite the bullet and buy a drill press. It would be nice to have anyways...
As for the mount, I posted what I've come up with so far a few posts back in this thread is you want a starting off point. If you want the part files to make it easier to edit, just let me know what format and I'll post it here
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Do you know the manufacturer of the included thermistor in this kit? Or better yet, which table of values I would be able to follow from this link: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor
I guess if I need to I will make my own table, just curious if you know if any of these match up with what you provide. Trying to build Marlin firmware myself to accept the new thermistor
My friend fell through on the drill press, so it's going to be harder than I thought to widen the hole in the hot end to accept the Ultimakers thermcouple. So this seems to be the "easiest" option.
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I have noticed this as well haha good name for it. I figured it probably wan't so good so I don't do it intentionally but it is kind of cool
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Sorry I thought I put the link in my post
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:73243
Thank you for the kind words
It's still a work in progress right now but everyone is welcome to it as I tweak it. This will probably fit on other machines but the measurements aren't super consistent. I would print out a piece, then measure and adjust the file. My machine is a little out of whack but still puts out usable stuff when it wants to .
I'm using "Alibre" to design it, so if anyone wants the part file in AD_PRT or anything else Alibre can export to, let me know.
I just took the head apart and measured off one of the pieces. I didn't even think of the lasercut files haha that would have been easier. The little neck coming up around the top I figured would be alright to just keep that end in line with hot end. I'm going to be using this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864 to hold it up top, which hopefully will be enough to keep retraction from being a problem.
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So the mount a posted here earlier fits now. Just want to add something on the back of it to grab the fan. All that's left after that is to figure how I'm going to go about the electronics. I sourced a drill to widen the hole for the TC though I still want to see if I can get the supplied TC to work. Excited to get this thing working!
http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac254/kitprinklers/IMG_20130416_224053.jpg
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Damn, that is going to be troublesome. I will see if I can find one of my friends with a drill press.
In the mean time I will do some research and see if/how I can get this included TC to work for me.
I am now trying to get my Ultimaker to print a mount a just designed as a prototype, which is an uphill battle as usual with the stock hot end. I've attached what I've come up with so far, maybe someone can criticize while I fight my Ultimaker haha. I still need to add a way to guide the bowden in.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:73243
Faberdashery Group Buy - USA
in Coffee corner
Posted
Cool, even if it's just two people it will save a decent amount. I was going to let this go for a few days and see if anyone bites, probably around this time next week I'd be placing an order.
Have you used them before, any color recommendations? I'll be grabbing purple for sure, Electric Blue and Mercury Red look pretty nice as well